69dime Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 The stereo in my '69 510 Wagon was not working when I bought the car. I pulled it and found it was wired to the two red/blue wires behind it. Once I disconnected it, my high beams started working. Isn't that the high-beam circuit? Why would there be a connector behind the radio for it? I found two blue wires with a connector, but they did not have 12v switched or constant. I knew it was a simple circuit and checked my fuses again. Appears that I blew the "Air Con" fuse somehow in the last day or two. Now I have 12v switched power again on the blue wires. I found a blue/white and red blue/wire on a female connector that provides constant 12v. What are these? One color seems to be one for a lighter, but it's on a female connector with the other. (My car does not have a lighter). I'll use a straight to battery wire for my constant 12v for radio and tach instead. I found two black on a female connector that appear to be a ground. On the back of the 69 rectangular dash there is a female spade connector sticking out each side. I'm guessing this is for the optional clock, depending on side for JDM or US market? There was an aftermarket wire connected to it. Would this be for lighting? Quote Link to comment
NCLNDYM Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Sounds like somebody who didn't know anything tried to wire this. My suggestion is if your going with a new stereo, run all new power lines and a really good ground. Run 12v from the battery to stereo with a 15amp fuse. Then find a switched power line off the ignition switch and use that for accessory power. Run a good ground and go from there. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I'll use a straight to battery wire for my constant 12v for radio and tach instead.?????????????????????????? putting the tack on 12v constance means its ON all the time grounding out in the inside thru the circut. when not running.USE A SWITICHABLE POWER FOR THAT. most take that off the + side coil or +side of the ballast resistor. oR YOU COULD SPLICE ELSEWHERE but thats a ez hook up there Tach yu want switchable POWER The Air Cond wire is a bLu wire if I remeber right and is a switchable power. I tell people to use this for a eleltric fuel pump or what ever. eletric fan? The radio wire is a double blu wire with a female end. this should be a switcbale POwer. I think you want this to turn your radio ON. If I remeber right a bigger blak wire is for the cig lighter which is 12volt ON all the time. Blu/wht is also 12volts all the time if I rememebr right. What NCLNDYM wrote is NOTt really correct. You should let the ignition power stay with the ignition and not parrallel things off it. use another circut like the AIR COND wire.radio wire under the dash. bUT THAT MIGHT BE WHAT HE REALLY MEANS. be honest you should just run a cheap stock radio as most 510s will get broken in to with a nice system. I ran out of windows to sell aready do to stereos getting broken. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Do you really need a tach? Quote Link to comment
NCLNDYM Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 FYI banzai, stereos have 2 power sources, 1 main and 1 accesory to power it. The constant power is for clock and memory programs, only 5v, the acces. power is for main stereo power. They also have a blue wire out of the back for acces. power up for antenna or amp power up. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 FYI banzai, stereos have 2 power sources, 1 main and 1 accesory to power it. correct But Dont hook up the Tach to constance power!!!!!!!!!! blu/wht wire or cig wire(Common on fuse box). Prevois owner of my Yellow car did this on the stock SSS tach. every 3 days car batt would DIE. Find he spliced into the blu/wht wire/ Tach never worked since trigger wire wasnt hooked up at the coil. I used a test light and found the circut. I threw the SSS tach away. even if car not running and no showing RPMs its still draining the battery. Quote Link to comment
brodster Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I think both of you are right concerning the number of power wires. The old stereos, without clock or memory, just had one power wire while all of the new ones have two. My thoughts as to why the original poster found a connection related to a lighting circuit may have been because the original installer may have been trying to tap into the circuit for the stereo display dimmer (if it was a newer stereo). I also agree that it is wise to re-wire in a new stereo with new power lines. Considering the age and condition, plus the fact that the old system wasn't designed to supply the current required by some new stereo units, it just makes sense. Quote Link to comment
69dime Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Like I stated, I will be running a new wire for constant power. I meant to say that the accessory (blue) will be my tach, not constant. Is anyone familiar with why there are spade female connectors on the back of the 69 rectangle dash? Blue is radio 12v, which is switched, also runs to heater fan and back to the A/C fuse. That would be my "accessory" 12v wire. Black is negative/ground. The other one must be cigarette lighter, it doesn't match the wiring diagram colors though. Anyway, I've got what I need. Only other thing would be a wire that provides 12v when the light switch is on, but I might just skip that and run it to the accessory wire also. :-/ Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Factory for the tach and clock was constant 12v I thought... That's what my wiring diagram shows. I have my tach connected to the factory clock constant power without issue. Later Joel Quote Link to comment
rayven14 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 And these are the reasons that I decided to rip all the wiring out of my car.... It was apparently wired by a bunch of pygmies on a friday at 5 cuz its completely jacked!!!!! gonna use a bunch of relays and a nice fuse box and create my own diagram in the event I sale it. No more phantom electrical gremlins for me!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 but I might just skip that and run it to the accessory wire also. thats what I dont for my gauge light Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Run new lines, cap the old ones off, fuse all power lines within 18" of the source. Wire a relay off the key using a positive trigger for your ignition power, this will reduce the draw on the key switch. Run fresh wire to all speakers and mind your phase. If you have any issues, post a vid and show us, we will get back to you. Good luck! Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Crap I cant edit any more since a newer update on this site. Yes I just wire the guage light to accessories Quote Link to comment
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