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coolant issue


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I have an issue with a Nissna E13, the engine has stood for a long time. I have stripped it and replaced the gaskets as a matter of course.

However now it's running (and well) i noticed the temp on the odd time shoots up and when investigating i found that the coolant is contaminated.

 

Now during the refresh i used an air line to blow out the coolant channels and man did a lot of crap come out i got covered lol.

I think there is still a lot in there and as the car warms up the crap is breaking done and contaminiting the coolant. I do wonder if at some time before i got it the coolant types were mixed.

If i flush it out and put fresh coolant in it's fine for a while then it starts the heating up. I know it's not an issue with the gaskets or head as the engine has done less than 30k miles. Ever time it happens and i flush the system the coolant is rusty brown and after a while running it with water it does go clear. The rad and heater matix are in first class condition (22k miles on them)

 

So i guess me question is, any one know of a good safe way to flush the system out?

I have tried a couple of the after market flushes (there crap)

I have heard loads of things like running degreaser (think this would be good if it was oil contamination) in it till it heats up then flush, dish washer tablets, a weak acid (this scares me due to alloy head)

 

any ideas?

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A lot of crap can accumulate in a cooling system. I have made adapters out of PVC pipe, with a garden hose fitting that has a pipe close enough to the radiator fittings sizes, that also has a "T" that I can hook an air hose up to.

After flushing with straight water, forwards and backwards, and the water runs clear, turning on air pressure creates more turbulence, and flushes more crap out of the engine, or radiator. Do this with the thermostat removed.

Flush the engine forward and back.

Flush the radiator forward and back.

Flush the heater forward and back.

 

If you really want to get involved, remove the plug on the back end of the block, that drains the block, and flush water and air in there. Do the same with the rear heater hose connection on the cylinder head, (L-series engine)

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thats the exact way i flush the system and it does go clear, but after driving it it will contaminate the coolant again. I think it's just build up of crap in engine thats breaking down.

I know its not the rad or heater

I looking for something to safely break down the gung in the engine block

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Along with the aforementioned ways of flushing with a hose, Ive used a couple different additives. Ive used radiator flushing fluid (I never looked at the ingredients to see what was in it), CLR, and citric acid. You can pick whichever you want... I didnt document which worked better, but I know that Ive used citric acid to clean pipes, and machinery systems while I was in the Navy. It worked fantastic, is non-caustic to the touch and is delicious.

 

Here is my steps for a hardcore radiator flush:

1. With the car cold forward flush the car with your perfered method

2. Reverse flush your car with your perfered method.

3. Blow the hoses out with an airhose.

4. Add water and your additive (CLR, radiator cleaner, citric acid, etc.)

5. Turn on your heater full blast and run your car for about 10-15 minutes.

6. Let the car cool down completely.

7. Repeat steps 1 and 2 again.

8. Fill with appropriate ratio of coolant and water for season/location.

 

Ive thought about using Coca-Cola as a radiator flush liquid, but am unsure what process I would use. I was thinking of running it for 10-15 minutes to get it circulating and then letting it sit overnight possibly. Ive seen what that stuff can do to rust and am impressed. Im just a little worried what would happen to it when you put it under pressure and heat it up to near boiling since its full of CO2.

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