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Olivia - 69 2 door 510 sedan - fully built CA18DET


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It's discontinued, they only have the TOMEI ones. It says its not discontinued, but if you select one it lists all the others as discontinued. It's retarded. Thats who i order most of my parts from.

 

The Greddy is 85mm and my pistons are only 83.5mm. From what I've read you shouldn't put a head gasket whose bore is too big on. I was reading it's ok if it's .5mm, but over 1mm is bad.

 

My bore is ~83.5mm.

Lets say the chamfer on the top of the cylinder is 1mm.

 

83.5mm + 1mm = 84.5mm.... which MIGHT be ok. IDK if thats accurate though. Are the pistons 83.5mm or is the bore 83.5mm? Maybe pistons are slightly smaller and REQUIRE an 83.5mm bore? I dont' know enough to say how that works and i didn't measure them.

 

In the mean time, I'm waiting to hear from my friend who does this for a living. I'd prefer not to run one that's too big if I can help it. I found a local company who makes copper head gaskets and will produce whatever you want, so I contacted them. It's about $100 so it's the same cost as ordering one but it's the exact specs i would need.

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You should be at 400. That turbo is good for it.

 

The stock pistons are 83. I bored it a little, just .5mm over. My CA is square too ;)

 

83.5mm x 83.6mm

 

thats why it has the neat powerband it does. It's really weird, the power continues in a straight line it feels like. I'll be super happy for you once yours is driving around. talked to some of the gentlemen at nicoclub and they said I will be fine with any head gasket as long as it is sealed using the technique from the link above as well as having a pretty dead on tune. They said the primary reason for the HG going wasn't the 18psi, it was the tune. Sigh... i knew i shouldn't drive it like that, but it's so hard not to.

 

Well, back to the drawing board.

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I never finished tuning and never installed the intake air temperature sensor. The way the ECU knows how much fuel to dump in is based on air density. With just a map sensor you know the pressure of air in the intake manifold. But the density of air changes at a constant rate based on temperature. Without knowing the temperature, the car was basically running in limp mode (it put in fuel, checked AFR and then checked the target AFR and adjusted accordingly). This was ok, but I shouldn't have been driving around in it. I had to on Sunday because our other two cars are out of commission and i was having new tires put on the civic.

 

It wasn't running lean or anything, it was running incredibly rich, 10:1. Doesn't really matter i suppose. While its down I'm going to do all the suspension bushings and tidy up the electrical in the engine bay. I also need to clean it since it's all oily.

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Eagle_Adam: IDK about optimistic, lol, but I try to look at bad things as an opportunity to take what i know didn't work and apply it towards a better/different solution.

 

Dottiblue, yeah, that would make sense. Does fuel share the same properties as water in that it's not compressible?

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Yeah, makes sense. From all my searching on the internet I can't find another ca18 with a buddy club spec II exhaust. I think i'm the only person in the world... which is a neat feeling. Can't wait for the holidays to be over so I can have extra money again to start buying up suspension pieces...

 

Does anyone know a company that will make a front/rear swaybar for the 510 (the front needs to clear a front sump oil pan though). If not, maybe I'll extend the pickup tube and run a custom rear sump pan + normal sway bars.

 

Thoughts / opinions? I'd do dry sump but I don't know enough to make one myself.

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1st on page 23!!

 

There are several options.

There is the DGR Sway bar. Theres one on ebay right now. That is the one I have. Tucks nicely in-between the oil pan and cross member,.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-510-FRONT-SUMP-1-INCH-SWAY-BAR-/200861782161?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec44b9091&vxp=mtr

There is the also the Mad Dat Swaybar which goes in front of the oil pan effectively protecting it....
http://www.maddat.com.au/1600.php

 

There is the McKinney Sway bar too...
http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_DATSUN+510+SR-KA+mount+kit

 

Here is a thread on SR sway bars which I do believe work for the CA as well...

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=14478

 

 

Hope this helps...

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i wouldnt rely on a sway bar to protect your oil pan. if thats the case ben get another pan and we can make you a bash proof one....

I wouldn't either but with an aluminum pan like I have (greddy) even going up a driveway a little to acute can hit the pan.

And if there is a sway that hits first and take a majority of the hit, I'd run that one just for the extra protection.

Also, you could also attach a skid plate from the front of the sway down to below the oil pan too.

i am not sure how low the Oil pan is on a CA but any protection is good protection..

 But like I said, I have the DGR sway....

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Thanks guys!

 

I do want to make a skid plate at some point. But i think intercooler piping and suspension bits need to come first. I also need to repair the radiator support, hood latch area, weld on some tabs to mount the intercooler/radiator, etc.

 

Lots of little bits.

 

I just might buy a decent welder and start practicing again

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the biggest issue i have is not having the front sway bar. Something feels off when compared to my old 510s... it could be the rotted out TC bushings though, IDK. Every single bushing is rotted and falling apart. I'm hoping that when i start replacing these it will GREATLY improve the responsiveness of the steering.

 

Speaking of steering... sounds like the b210/710 steering boxes will work in the 510? My worm gear is worn out i think. I'm going to do the adjustment after i have the head off, intake manifold and turbo out... i'm just trying to gather info in case thats the route i have to go.

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thanks!

 

So after reading the success eagle_Adam had the other day (and being that i am sick) i took the day off work. I made some tea, cranked the heater up to 80 and opened the door from my kitchen to the garage (so i can get some of that heat).

 

I decided to find the point of failure and fix it today.

 

Guess what. I spent 10 minutes looking around, pulled the intercooler piping off and air filter, looked at the CAS and realized it was disconnected. I was like WTF? My wiring harness doesn't have most of the connector clips. I guess I'll be buying some. While i was driving, the CAS plug came out... so i immediately lost all power and the car just stopped running. I just said fuck it and got it towed home.

 

turns out i was wrong. which makes me happy. Going to smoke a victory cigarette even though im sick and then go back in to clean stuff and hopefully do some wiring and stuff like that.

 

yay ^.^

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