wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Did you grab that from the 510? I was like someone just pulled that dizzy. Yea, I grabbed it yesterday, but was unfamiliar with that type, didn't know there was a box, the little black wiring box looked like one of them GM HEI units, so I thought I had everything, turned out the little box was just a way to disconnect the wires. BTW, I looked at the year this time, it was a 78 510. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Are them GM HEI units inside the dist. caps? Or are they cheap at the parts store? I kinda know what they look like, just have never looked for one before. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Yup. Thankyou datzenmike, it makes it easy to wire with this little diagram. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Are them GM HEI units inside the dist. caps? Or are they cheap at the parts store? I kinda know what they look like, just have never looked for one before. Cheap, mount it next to the Coil. Outside the dizzy. Early 80s camaro/el camino? Idk... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Cheap, mount it next to the Coil. Outside the dizzy. Early 80s camaro/el camino? Idk... "Cheap" meaning new, or at the wrecking yard? Not a lot of camaros/el caminos at the wrecking yards. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 "Cheap" meaning new, or at the wrecking yard? Not a lot of camaros/el caminos at the wrecking yards. new Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 $20 at napa for this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=MPETP45SB_0167706846&An=599001+101978+50012+2012008&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29 part number: MPE TP45SB Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 $20 at napa for this one: http://www.napaonlin..._RecType%3aA%29 part number: MPE TP45SB I'll look into it tomarrow, thanks. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 GM HEI is not rated for exposed use is it? They are normally mounted out of the wet inside the distributor. I'd just use a $5 hitachi matchbox, it has the same wiring as the GM unit, and it is for exposed use. And super-reliable. Keep it all real, keep it Nissan. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 GM HEI is not rated for exposed use is it? They are normally mounted out of the wet inside the distributor. I'd just use a $5 hitachi matchbox, it has the same wiring as the GM unit, and it is for exposed use. And super-reliable. Keep it all real, keep it Nissan. Where do you get a $5.00 matchbox? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 At pick-n-pull. Don't buy the whole distributor, just the black box. Any 4cyl 4-wire one is the same, a-series, L-series, Z-series, etc. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Don't buy the whole distributor WHAT!!!!!!!!!! Buy the whole thing. You cant be that cheap. Accel has those modules at Schucks or Napa also if I remeber right or MSD makes them too there cheap!!!!!!!! be carefule of those modules also y the USA made ones lots of taiwan ones out there also Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Well I didn't think Wayne needed another A14 distributor. But the black box will work with the L20B. Pull-a-Part sold the entire distributor for $12.50, but since Pick-u-Pull has bought them out they are now like $40. So I no longer buy parts I don't need, except when they have a 50% off sale. Oh yeah, only get it if it says Hitachi. The non-genuine ones some are not very reliable. But then the GM unit works well too. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Well guys, I am really getting tired of messing with these EI units, I pulled apart a matchbox distributor I had and used the box to test this damn thing, and I cannot get spark. This is how it is set up. pos batt. to pos on the coil neg batt. to dist. body, coil body along with that ballist resister neg side of coil to C post on matchbox(top of tee) pos side of dist to B post on matchbox(bottom of tee) out the back of the matchbox I tried both ways coil wire to the top of the dist. cap spark plug wire from post on cap to ground with spark plug I started checking with an ohm meter, when everything is connected up, everything I touch has 12 volts, pos side of coil, neg side of coil, both wires coming out of the back of the matchbox going to the trigger have 12 volts, WTF is going on? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I just pulled the wires going to the distributor and then checked the voltage on the back of the matchbox, one post has 12 volts, the other has 4 to 6 volts, does this mean the distributor trigger is bad? I ask because if I connect the wires on the back of the matchbox, everything goes back to 12 volts. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I put the module back on the dist. I took it off of, got spark imediately, there is something wrong with that distributor out of that 78 510, I am going to take it back and get something else. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 I have yet to see a El Dizzy at the junkyard on 4cyl Lseries. I have seen them all the time on Z cars and the A series cars. One day... Oh Wayno, I also remembered, You have to ground the matchbox unit itself. Like the screw hole or something... Not sure how you attached it to the remote dizzy... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 neg batt. to dist. body, coil body along with that ballist resister The coil body does not need to be grounded. Don't ground the ballast resistor. Do ground the matchbox. Didn't we say it had to be bolted to the body??? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 when everything is connected up, everything I touch has 12 volts, pos side of coil, neg side of coil, both wires coming out of the back of the matchbox going to the trigger have 12 volts, WTF is going on? That is normal. The coil is just a big loop of wire, so 12V in, it will also be 12V at the - terminal (unless the points or ignitor grounds it). both wires coming out of the back of the matchbox going to the trigger have 12 volts Those are the trigger wires. They are inductive loops, so measuring the voltage doesn't tell you much. checked the voltage on the back of the matchbox, one post has 12 volts, the other has 4 to 6 volts, does this mean the distributor trigger is bad? Probably not. Testing it by voltage is rather complicated but if you want to really know, see the Nissan instructions in most 1979-1981 factory service manuals. They don't call it a "black box" for nothing ... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 When I connect the distributor and coil mount bracket and resister together and ground them, it is like they are connected to the body/engine, grounded like they were on the car. When I spin the dist. shaft with everything connected correctly, and I have tried the trigger wires both ways on the back of the black box, without/with the black box grounded, I get nothing, but when I test all the leads with the black box grounded, the main ground wire starts throwing sparks when one of the leads is tested, the other shows about 1 or 2 volts, if I remove the black box ground, that short goes away. I then put the black box back on the dist. it came off of, wire it up and get spark right away, I just don't beleave I am that stupid. There has to be something differant about wiring these things, or it is bad. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Yeah, I'd give up by now, it's not worth it. You basically test the remote EI distributor the same way as a matchbox distributor, but with an external black box. There's no difference really. Just got to ground the external box (the metal portion on the back, not any of the four connectors). It's normally grounded when you bolt it to the body. You should not be testing the "lead" in that manner -- not unless you know what the lead is for and how to test it. The sparks are not from a short, but from the way you are testing it. If it was shorted out, it wouldn't work when put back on the original distributor. Quote Link to comment
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