fuda Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 helo everyone first time on forum need a bit of help. so here it goes i have a 73 620 truck and i have been having issues with timing i have been frying points left and right yes i know get an electronic i have one on order but i still need my truck while waiting on delivery. i had a dual point dist. on but i just swaped it out for a single point so i am able to do the up grade, truck ran great for about a week and a half, then one morning my starter stuck, so i turned the truck off and back on everything seamed fine continued to work next time i came to a stop truck staled. Only way i was able to keep it started was to raise the idle speed it would race in park and stale in drive, but got it home changed out the starter for new and saw points were fried again so replaced them as well a couple of people told me to replace the resistor to so i did. im still having issues only way i can get it started now is to fully advance dist. If anyone has any idea or even ran into this problem please help. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 i have been frying points left and right The most common cause for this is a mis-wired ballast resistor. Test with your voltmeter. With key ON engine OFF, there should at the coil + terminal you should NOT have 12V, but only about 9v or less. 1 Quote Link to comment
kelrich Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 bad condenser will burn points 1 Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 both are right. Points ballast and condenser are cheap. Like gg said make sure the ballast is wired correctly Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Make sure to "gap" your points too Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 I used the Matchbook method, stick the cover of a matchbook in the points, turn crank until it's on the lobe, and tighten them down. Works just right if the points are new. Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 so what i am getting from this is that when i replaced the distributor the resistor could have been bad which just screwed condenser and points? just check volts at coil+ and got 10.5 thats with new ballast resistor i dont see wiring it wrong couldnt get a pic up but looking at the pic gg provided the power source is hooked up on the left and the right runs to coil+ just the way the old one was on. Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 ya i got the points gaped at 0.020 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Yes, that is a possibility. It is why testing is better than just replacing. Test, then replace if needed. Otherwise it's just guessing. When you replaced the points, did you replace the condensor too? It is important to know. Check the voltage with engine running. Is it still 10.5v? If the voltage at the battery is above 15.5, replace the voltage regulator. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 sounds more like the condensor If you got the +12 volt to the ballast then the other side goes to the + side coil its correct. You will hav the Hot start wire to the coil also when in START position. Thats it. Unless you put in a Low resisitance coil this will also eat up the points as Datsuns use a 1.6 ohm coil. 1.6 ohm coil+1.6 ohm ballast=3.2 ohms No fancy Race coil here unless its say what ohm value it is or you could add another ballast resisitor of say .5 ohms or so Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 ya voltage reg was changed a few months ago coil is just a factory replacement did that about a month ago brought it to a shop two weeks ago with issues they ran some test and said my dual point dist. was bad so i decided to get a remanufactured single point so when i had the money later down the road i can put in electronic i got them on order at about a week out any way after new dist. was instaled and gaped and truck timed it ran the best it ever did for about 2 weeks and now back to square one. my biggest fear right now is putting in the electronic ignition and what ever problem i am having fries it. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 It doesn't matter if they replaced the Voltage Regulator. What matters is how much voltage you are seeing TODAY. 10.5 at the coil is a bit high. So more testing is needed. What is the voltage at the battery engine running, headlights off, at 1500 RPM? I advise not to put in an electronic ignition until you find the cause of this problem. Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 ok no more time today but will check that out tomorrow say that i check that and its at or below 15.5 what would be next thing to look at? i have had a few diferent shops take a look over the last few months and it seems to me that there might be something they have being over looking and im not that savy to pick it up. thanks for the help hopfully i will have this figured out soon and be able to report good news if any more ideas throw them at me please. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 there might be something they have being over looking Spot on. If the problem continues, they have overlooked the cause. No worries, we will guide you to a solution if you have the patience. Take it one step at a time. When you replaced the points, did you fit a brand-new condensor? Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 only when i put the new distributor on two weeks ago but not since problem started again just got new points Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 So... at about the time you replaced the condensor is when it started burning up the points? And you haven't yet replaced the 2-week old condensor? If so, putting the old condensor back on may stop the burning-up-points problem. Condensors are not easy to test unless your multimeter has a condensor test feature. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 By the sound of it... coil is just a factory replacement did that about a month ago ... the coil was replaced also about the time the problem happened. If an EI coil was put in by mistake it would draw more current and fry the points as well. Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 i never replaced the condenser it was a new single point dist. came with new points and condenser so i dont have any old condensers for this dist. the old dist i was told to replace because it was bad it was fully advanced and and it was still off they told me to get single point and electronic ignition i didnt buy a junk yard or used dist. i bought a reman. because i didnt have the cash yet to go electronic so my old dist. with old points and condensers were turned in for core but ya i didnt have a problem with the points till new distributor was put on as for the coil i got the master pro replacement from kragen its there standard replacement. also did i do this wrong i swaped from a dual point to a single there were two wires for the dual (black, and blue/yellow) and only one wire needed for the single point i asked around and was told to just bridge the two wires together was i told wrong?should i eliminate one of those wires? if so which one. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 The old setup with dual points -- you can use the condensor from that with the new single point distributor. At this point, you don't know whether the new condensor is good or not. But something is wrong. Master Pro should be marked 2-5195. Double-check it to make sure they gave you the correct one. Also disconnect the wires from the Coil + terminal and then measure the Ohms from the + to - terminals on the coil. It must be 1.17 ohms or more. If it is less ohms, the coil is shorted. 1 Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 ok cool will take a look in morning as for the condensers i put new ones on the old dis. but like an idiot i turned in the old dist with them still atached but i think i still have the old ones from that dist. somewere time to tare apart the tool box. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 So there are two problems. 1. "i have been frying points left and right" and 2. "only way i can get it started now is to fully advance dist" These are probably related, but maybe not. Have you checked the dwell with a Dwell Meter? It could cause problem #2. And about your question: i swaped from a dual point to a single there were two wires for the dual (black, and blue/yellow) and only one wire needed for the single point i asked around and was told to just bridge the two wires togetheri do not know if this is the best procedure. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 I think a wrong coil was in stalled. get a point coil Buy a Pertronix for the single point L16 distributor(Fits Single point L16 drops right Use with Ballast and point coil . NO need to worry about the condensor 1 Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 well just got my pertronix have not got around yet to test everything before i install it hopefully i will have time tomorrow but banzai im almost positive its the right one only way its not is if it was thrown in the wrong box box has correct part # but going to check the coil its self tomorrow as well as everything else cant afford to purchase another pertronix wil keep you all posted on what happens... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 19, 2012 Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 Pertronix only fit single point dizzys they will also fit the later L20b dizzys. but there is a ring above the point lobes that the new Pertronix magnet ring will not fir over. This has to be machined out then the pertronix magnet ring will fit on the dizzy point lobes. I dont know the transition year on the l18 dizzys as I seen soem Pertronix fit them as they look like a L16 dizzy but Im not positive as years go by different dizzy could be installed on a vehicle. 1741 is the part number for the dizzy Quote Link to comment
fuda Posted January 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2012 What gets machined the dist post or the magnet? It's a 73 l16 got single point replacement Quote Link to comment
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