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I recently acquired my dream truck, 1965 Datsun l320, I now know what you have all known for so long, what a great looking truck. Now if I could get it running!!! My truck is rough, but what do you want for 500 bucks. Anyway, I see the threads for engine gasket kits, but I cant find any? Can someone give me a website or link to get a complete gasket kit for my engine. I can't find detroit gasket anywhere on the web and the napa part number on the forum does not come up when I go to napa? Also, anyone know of a place to get front and rear bumpers and grill? and any trim, my truck looks like someone removed all emblems, grill, trim and bumpers in hopes to paint it, then forgot about it for the last 20 years. Unfortunately they never made it to wherever the truck ended up. Any help for a newbee would be great.


Tom Schmidt

Culver City, Ca.

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welcome. They have been closing out 320 parts for some time. Nissan got rid of a lot of stuff about 10 years ago and aftermarket starting about 3 years ago.


for some parts, try Rockauto, such as timing set (which don't often go bad, by the way)


gasket kits are not needed. Buy the parts individually -- there aren't that many gaskets on the old E1 engine. If you are careful, you can use RTV sealant on many things:

* rocker cover

* thermostat housing

* oil pan

* tappet covers

* timing cover

* Manifold gasket (use high-temp RTV)


Nissan Parts

11044-07200 Head gasket $32 USD

32011-09400 mounting plate to crank case $2.58 USD

13037-T0110 Timing gear Cover Gskt $3.13

13273-30000 rocker cover $2.82 USD

21207-30000 Thermostat Washer-joint $0.30

14035-08000 Intake/Exhaust manifold gasket $2.68 USD

A6174-31301 Insulator-carb $4.43 USD

14033-30010 Gasket-hot Spot $9.48 USD

15066-30000 Gasket-oil Pump $0.30 USD

21014-08000 21014-08000 Gasket-water pump $0.52 USD



10101-09501 Kit-repair, engine gasket NLA

11121-30100 Oil pan gasket NLA

13044-08000 gasket, timing chain case cover NLA

13402-30000 crank, oil front seal NLA

15061-30000 gasket, oil pump to strainer NLA

15233-30100 gasket, oil filter NLA

15230-30100 Gasket, center shaft, oil filter NLA

21047-08000 gasket, water pump body side NLA


From gasket stock, which you can buy at NAPA, cut a gasket for these, so you get the right thickness

* oil pump

* fuel pump

* carb insulator


NAPA might be able to find a substitute for these. Bring the old ones in so they can match up.

* Rocker cover bolt grommets

* Oil strainer o-ring

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when you get gasket maker, dont get the orange or red stuff, get the grey. it seems to work the best for me.


I agree. Orange and red is crap, unless it's the high temp. I used to use grey exclusively, but then I found "The Right Stuff" http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm. It's expensive, but you can't beat it. And for fuel related things (manifolds, carb bases, fittings) I use "Three Bond 1211" http://www.threebond.com/Comsumer.html. We had a motor on the dyno once that ran for about 20 minutes before we realized there were NO BOLTS holding the intake manifold on, just the 1211!!! Strong stuff...

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Thanks so much for all the info, I am going to start breaking down the engine this coming week, so we shall see what I am in for. The truck hasn't run in twenty years, the engine seems dry, so I am not sure if water is a problem. Looks to me that mice and or squirrels were using the engine as a storage compartment and a bathroom. The carb was open and full of craps. Seeing this has led me to believe I should break down the engine first. Or do I go for it and try nd fire it up?

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I really enjoy trying to resurrect a motor before I tear into it. It makes the process more rewarding somehow.


Try removing the carb and vacuuming out all the mouse crap first. Depending on how long it's been sitting the carb may not hold gas so new gaskets will probably be required there.


In my experience, any amount of water (or liquid) that enters a port can damage the engine. Water that sits on valve surfaces can rust valves and seats, and water that gets into the combustion chamber can rust the rings to the bore. Old timers will tell you to lube it up by pouring ATF down the spark plug hole and just break it free and that everything will be fine. NO WAY will everything be fine. Will it run? Sure (maybe) but it won't be the same as new.


I would squirt some WD40 into the spark plug holes and try to turn it, by putting a wrench on the crank bolt. If it turns GREAT! If not, then try the ATF down the spark plug holes. Let it sit for a day and try to turn it. If it breaks free then run it and see how badly it smokes, if at all.


Another piece of advice (if you're going to try to run it) is to add 1 qt of ATF to the engine oil. As ATF is a good detergent, it will help loosen all the sludge from the galleys and help clean the motor from the inside out. This should be done for not more than a couple hundred miles.


And yet another piece of advice, add another fuel filter (so there are two) temporarily until all the loose crap in the tank cycles through.


Good luck!

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