A block timing chain questions, ect.

[wayno]

Yes there is a test. Use an ohmmeter, and verify there is continuity between the two pickup wires. And verify neither has continuity with ground.

 

Do I need to pull the distributer again and remove the wires(red&green) from the black box part of the matchbox to do this test?

[ggzilla]

just unbolt the matchbox and pull the wires off it

 

If that checks out OK, then pretend it doesn't have electronic ignition. Troubleshoot it like a generic a spark problem.

[DanielC]

I got an EI distributer about a year ago. This is how I tested it.

 

 

Battery positive is supplied to the B terminal on the matchbox, and coil positive.

Coil negative goes to matchbox C terminal.

Ground on the distributer, (terminal by vacuum advance) to battery negative.

Spark tester, plugged into the coil high voltage out.

Ground side of spark tester hooked back up to distributer body.

[ggzilla]

Do you just spin the distributor shaft by hand?

[DanielC]

Just spin the shaft by hand, I was surprised by how slow it would actually fire.

That is just with a stock Datsun coil, from a 1971 pickup.

[wayno]

You guys are not going to freaking beleave this, because of the photo DanielC posted, I figured out what the problem was. The former owner freaking wired the freaking coil backwards and I followed their lead, I also wired it backwards cause, well I guess I am stupid also, when I made my wires, I just wired it the way they had it wired, I can't beleave it took this long for me to figure out. It never even entered my mind that it could have been wired wrong. Thankyou for your photo DanielC

[ggzilla]

Gotta love POs

[wayno]

I started it, and it runs, but I had no oil make it to the rockers, I maybe have a total of a minute run time(not all at once, maybe 5 seconds at a time) and no oil made it to the top, this baffles me also, but now I would beleave anything, as one of you noticed, there were rings in the pass. seat, they are old rings, there are also old bearings there to, but I have seen no rodend bolts yet, as Dan Hart told me that A14/15 rodend bolts are one time torque/use only, I am worried about that. I am also worried that the oilpump is not primed, so that is why no oil made it to the top, so it is time to yank the engine/tranny, and all the other parts I am going to keep/sell, and get this thing out of my driveway.

[ggzilla]

One would think that if the rod bolts are truly one-time use, the Factory Service Manuals would mention it. But they dont that I've ever found. Only Nissan Competition says that. Yes, for high RPM use I would replace the rod bolts, but not for a stock engine that is kept under 6000 RPM.

[wayno]

One would think that if the rod bolts are truly one-time use, the Factory Service Manuals would mention it. But they dont that I've ever found. Only Nissan Competition says that. Yes, for high RPM use I would replace the rod bolts, but not for a stock engine that is kept under 6000 RPM.

 

My A15 rodend bolts kept stretching on me before I made it to the proper torque, it was weird, I kept turning the nuts, but I couldn't get them to tighten, when I removed the offending bolts, they were thinner in the middle where they had stretched. I went and asked dan about it after I had ordered 3 of them for like $12.00 each, I still have them 3 bolts to this day. Dan got mad at me for not coming to him, then he ordered me a full set for about $20.00. He told me that when an A block explodes for no reason without warning, the block was rebuilt, and they used the old rodend bolts, and that was why it exploded, period.

[ggzilla]

All I can say is most are reused and have no problems ... But certainly if they are stripped/stretched, they must be replaced

 

We miss Dan