DAT510 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Ok, so i've read most coilover threads on here and on the internet. so far im pretty confident in my knowledge in this set up. I have two questions. 1.) i saw that in most Coilover builds, they make a sleeve and have that sleeve that they fab sit on top of shock ( for rear at least), then the coilover sits on top of that. When the shock go bad, do you do it all over again? or do you just swap out the shock? Essentially, this ↓ is removable and you just replace shock 2.)Anything specific i'm looking for? like spring rate? can i use some Hondar one? like this one: Hondar :confused: 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Most Nissan struts are 2" so get a 2" split collar for the coil over sleeve to sit on. Welds are not adjustable but the split collar is. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Good thing you reminded me about that. Where can you get those? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Ruland I believe makes some Ruland.com Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Technically it's a fastener so try a store that sells nuts and bolts. A zx strut (I'm using the Maxima goon strut but very similar) with the lower spring mount removed and the stock 710 (or 510) stock springl (one coil removed) and lower mount with a split collar under to hold and also be adjustable. Strut damper fluid emptied and replaced with thicker 20W motorcycle front fork oil. 50% increased spring rate, heavier damping, adjustable height for under $50. Page 2 or 3...http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page__st__40 . Quote Link to comment
krecs Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Good thing you reminded me about that. Where can you get those? hi! I spend time thinking about different way to delete the ring because with time is going to get real ugly and rusted I make rear coil overs i make the sleeve to sit on top of the shock if the shock goes bad remove the sleeve and replace the shock if you need a set call me at 951 214-9555 my price is reasonable Quote Link to comment
krecs Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Technically it's a fastener so try a store that sells nuts and bolts. A zx strut (I'm using the Maxima goon strut but very similar) with the lower spring mount removed and the stock 710 (or 510) stock springl (one coil removed) and lower mount with a split collar under to hold and also be adjustable. Strut damper fluid emptied and replaced with thicker 20W motorcycle front fork oil. 50% increased spring rate, heavier damping, adjustable height for under $50. Page 2 or 3...http://community.rat...on/page__st__40 . that is front weld a 1/4 ring send it to p/coat put your aluminum sleeve and it will stay looking good Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Did you see those coilovers Mike? $40 Adjustable :D My welding isn't bad, i need practice though, so those collars look like my only option for right naow. i totally forgot about teh back, doesn't the spring ride on the rear arm? so if i do coilovers in the back i wont need that spring? Or how would i approach that? Quote Link to comment
Xander_42 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 i totally forgot about teh back, doesn't the spring ride on the rear arm? so if i do coilovers in the back i wont need that spring? Or how would i approach that? If you do go with a coilover on the rear without reinforcing the swing arm this is what could happen: I've been telling people this for a while, but people just don't listen. The rear of the trailing arm is not designed to carry both damping and spring forces, so when you throw a coilover back there without reinforcing around the bearing as the BRE team did (method outlined in How to Hot-Rod and Race Your Datsun 510...), it will break if you drive the car hard/from fatigue. Otherwise, just figure out your spring rate/length beforehand and get it right the first time. The actual discussion of this on 510 realm is gone, but the oics remain. EDIT: Clarification, the BRE team did reinforce their trailing arms, and did not have any failures there that I know of. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 I need to get that book. Quote Link to comment
Xander_42 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 I need to get that book. Indeed. If I had my copy with me I'd send you the applicable pages, but it's elsewhere. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 that's cool man. i'll eventually get the book. long before i commit to the coilovers. lol, i just ordered 3 more books. I love reading books that pertain to learning something useful. i ordered the haynes manual on the Z, a MIG welding one and EFI, ECU tuning etc. Quote Link to comment
Xander_42 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Awesome, never can have enough shop manuals, I really like to see the different solutions that manufacturers use, great source of inspiration for me. Also, mmm EFI. Want. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 I'll tell you all about it once i get it. just ordered it 2 hours ago. lol. Quote Link to comment
Xander_42 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 Cool. I should have my copy of HTHRaRYD back soon, if you want I can send you that section, and anything else. Quote Link to comment
vdubjim Posted November 6, 2011 Report Share Posted November 6, 2011 stole these from someplace Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I looked up the book on Amazon, i found the bible! $124 for it! Quote Link to comment
DREWSDIME Posted November 7, 2011 Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I always wondered this about the coil over on the stock shock location that alot of weight from the car on just that little shock mount. What about just using a coil over sleeve like you run in the front in the rear stock spring location? I believe DP sell coil over kit like this but its expensive. I want to try this on my car but I do not have room right now to do this. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted November 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2011 I always wondered this about the coil over on the stock shock location that alot of weight from the car on just that little shock mount. What about just using a coil over sleeve like you run in the front in the rear stock spring location? I believe DP sell coil over kit like this but its expensive. I want to try this on my car but I do not have room right now to do this. Isn't someone on this forum already doing that? Quote Link to comment
FastDat Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 If you do go with a coilover on the rear without reinforcing the swing arm this is what could happen: I've been telling people this for a while, but people just don't listen. The rear of the trailing arm is not designed to carry both damping and spring forces, so when you throw a coilover back there without reinforcing around the bearing as the BRE team did (method outlined in How to Hot-Rod and Race Your Datsun 510...), it will break if you drive the car hard/from fatigue. Otherwise, just figure out your spring rate/length beforehand and get it right the first time. The actual discussion of this on 510 realm is gone, but the oics remain. EDIT: Clarification, the BRE team did reinforce their trailing arms, and did not have any failures there that I know of. This failure is not from the coilovers, but from the trailing arm striking the bottom of the chassis. If it was from the additional load from the spring, the metal would tear between the load imparted during bump (wheel accelerating upward) and the shock mount ( force resisting the upward movement). The failure shown is indicative of the bump stops being removed from the shock and not enough rear spring. Remember the wheel rate is approximately 500 pounds. To stop a 3-g bump with 500 pound springs at the shock position requires approximately 3 inches of travel. Of course, if you measure, most lowered 510s do not have 3 inches of travel before parts start running into each other. And you can run a much lighter trailing arm if you go to coilovers, not the other way around. 1 Quote Link to comment
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