Jump to content

Coilovers...


DAT510

Recommended Posts

Ok, so i've read most coilover threads on here and on the internet.

so far im pretty confident in my knowledge in this set up.

I have two questions.

1.) i saw that in most Coilover builds, they make a sleeve and have that sleeve that they fab sit on top of shock ( for rear at least), then the coilover sits on top of that.

When the shock go bad, do you do it all over again? or do you just swap out the shock?

Essentially, this ↓ is removable and you just replace shock

017.jpg

 

 

2.)Anything specific i'm looking for? like spring rate? can i use some Hondar one? like this one: Hondar

:confused:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • Replies 19
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Technically it's a fastener so try a store that sells nuts and bolts.

 

strutmods004Large.jpg

 

A zx strut (I'm using the Maxima goon strut but very similar) with the lower spring mount removed and the stock 710 (or 510) stock springl (one coil removed) and lower mount with a split collar under to hold and also be adjustable. Strut damper fluid emptied and replaced with thicker 20W motorcycle front fork oil. 50% increased spring rate, heavier damping, adjustable height for under $50.

 

 

Page 2 or 3...http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page__st__40

 

.

Link to comment

Good thing you reminded me about that.

Where can you get those?

 

hi!

I spend time thinking about different way to delete the ring because with time is going to get real ugly and rusted

 

I make rear coil overs

i make the sleeve to sit on top of the shock

if the shock goes bad remove the sleeve and replace the shock

if you need a set call me at 951 214-9555 my price is reasonable

 

 

Link to comment

Technically it's a fastener so try a store that sells nuts and bolts.

 

strutmods004Large.jpg

 

A zx strut (I'm using the Maxima goon strut but very similar) with the lower spring mount removed and the stock 710 (or 510) stock springl (one coil removed) and lower mount with a split collar under to hold and also be adjustable. Strut damper fluid emptied and replaced with thicker 20W motorcycle front fork oil. 50% increased spring rate, heavier damping, adjustable height for under $50.

 

 

Page 2 or 3...http://community.rat...on/page__st__40

 

.

 

that is front

weld a 1/4 ring send it to p/coat put your aluminum sleeve and it will stay looking good

Link to comment

Did you see those coilovers Mike? $40

Adjustable :D

My welding isn't bad, i need practice though, so those collars look like my only option for right naow.

i totally forgot about teh back, doesn't the spring ride on the rear arm? so if i do coilovers in the back i wont need that spring?

Or how would i approach that?

Link to comment

i totally forgot about teh back, doesn't the spring ride on the rear arm? so if i do coilovers in the back i wont need that spring?

Or how would i approach that?

 

If you do go with a coilover on the rear without reinforcing the swing arm this is what could happen:

510-10.jpg

 

I've been telling people this for a while, but people just don't listen. The rear of the trailing arm is not designed to carry both damping and spring forces, so when you throw a coilover back there without reinforcing around the bearing as the BRE team did (method outlined in How to Hot-Rod and Race Your Datsun 510...), it will break if you drive the car hard/from fatigue. Otherwise, just figure out your spring rate/length beforehand and get it right the first time.

 

The actual discussion of this on 510 realm is gone, but the oics remain.

 

EDIT: Clarification, the BRE team did reinforce their trailing arms, and did not have any failures there that I know of.

Link to comment

that's cool man. i'll eventually get the book. long before i commit to the coilovers.

lol, i just ordered 3 more books. I love reading books that pertain to learning something useful.

i ordered the haynes manual on the Z, a MIG welding one and EFI, ECU tuning etc.

Link to comment

I always wondered this about the coil over on the stock shock location that alot of weight from the car on just that little shock mount. What about just using a coil over sleeve like you run in the front in the rear stock spring location? I believe DP sell coil over kit like this but its expensive. I want to try this on my car but I do not have room right now to do this.

Link to comment

I always wondered this about the coil over on the stock shock location that alot of weight from the car on just that little shock mount. What about just using a coil over sleeve like you run in the front in the rear stock spring location? I believe DP sell coil over kit like this but its expensive. I want to try this on my car but I do not have room right now to do this.

 

Isn't someone on this forum already doing that?

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

If you do go with a coilover on the rear without reinforcing the swing arm this is what could happen:

510-10.jpg

 

I've been telling people this for a while, but people just don't listen. The rear of the trailing arm is not designed to carry both damping and spring forces, so when you throw a coilover back there without reinforcing around the bearing as the BRE team did (method outlined in How to Hot-Rod and Race Your Datsun 510...), it will break if you drive the car hard/from fatigue. Otherwise, just figure out your spring rate/length beforehand and get it right the first time.

 

The actual discussion of this on 510 realm is gone, but the oics remain.

 

EDIT: Clarification, the BRE team did reinforce their trailing arms, and did not have any failures there that I know of.

 

This failure is not from the coilovers, but from the trailing arm striking the bottom of the chassis. If it was from the additional load from the spring, the metal would tear between the load imparted during bump (wheel accelerating upward) and the shock mount ( force resisting the upward movement). The failure shown is indicative of the bump stops being removed from the shock and not enough rear spring. Remember the wheel rate is approximately 500 pounds. To stop a 3-g bump with 500 pound springs at the shock position requires approximately 3 inches of travel. Of course, if you measure, most lowered 510s do not have 3 inches of travel before parts start running into each other. And you can run a much lighter trailing arm if you go to coilovers, not the other way around.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.