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EI dizzy/pedistal for an L16 72 521


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my first thought was to go with a single points dizzy (from my stock dual points) and convert to pertronix because A) it seemed cheap and easy, B) i could quickly go back to points if the thing ever crapped out and C) i wouldn't have to track down a new pedestal however nobody seems to be carrying and there seems to be a bit of debate on usability, dependability, spark plug life, and fuel economy. I like the match box set ups a lot however a replacement module is 175 dollars according to advance auto if the original ever takes a shit and the remans dont come with a pedestal nor do the 1978 remotes but i am done with my points system and am willing to go with whatever. i am leaning towards the remote systems because a 20 dollar GM HEI is considerably cheaper to replace than a $175 matchbox module but pickers cant be choosers so hit me up if you got something that will work

 

p.s. can/has someone used the gm hei as a back up to the matchbox? ive been looking for days now and couldnt find an awnser( i really dont like the idea of a 175 dollar special order part)

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The EI module is extremely reliable. Never heard of one quitting, usually it's bad connections at the coil or bad module/ dizzy case grounding. Get one with confidence and just keep your eyes open in junk yards and grab a spare.

 

No reason why a matchbox couldn't be used to work an HEI from a GM distributor that I can see.

 

As for bases any 4 or 6 cylinder base will work on any other 4 or 6 cylinder dizzy single, dual EI remote igniter or EI matchbox. What will happen is the dizzy may very well be clocked into another position with the rotor pointing elsewhere than #1 plug wire at TDC. If it's pointing to the #4 wire, (as an example) just treat that new position as #1 and re arrange the other three in order around it. If the rotor is between plug wires on the cap or you can't set the proper timing because you have run out of adjustment, you can drop the oil pump and re-set the drive spindle to another position on the crank drive gear. The new position will move the rotor over to a new position, hopefully under a cap plug wire or close enough. This now becomes the new #1 wire, so just move the other three in order around it.

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"Not all bases are interchangeable. The lock bolt is further out on the large-cap dists vs the small cap ones. "

 

I had this problem. I took a "narrow" plate, and cut the slotted tab off with a 1/32 cutoff wheel, in a die grinder. I then took a piece of Gas welding rod as a spacer, and put in between the plate, and the piece I cut off, and then Welded it back together. The plate in the right is a stock L-16 plate, the one on the left is the modified one.

DistPlates.jpg

 

Here they are on top of each other.

DistPlates2.jpg

 

Yes, I cleaned up the welds a little more.

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Not all bases are interchangeable. The lock bolt is further out on the large-cap dists vs the small cap ones.

 

Is not the base or pedestal the same thing?? The cast aluminum part that bolt to the timing cover? The dizzy slips down inside it.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

"Not all bases are interchangeable. The lock bolt is further out on the large-cap dists vs the small cap ones. "

 

I had this problem. I took a "narrow" plate, and cut the slotted tab off with a 1/32 cutoff wheel, in a die grinder. I then took a piece of Gas welding rod as a spacer, and put in between the plate, and the piece I cut off, and then Welded it back together. The plate in the right is a stock L-16 plate, the one on the left is the modified one.

DistPlates.jpg

 

Here they are on top of each other.

DistPlates2.jpg

 

Yes, I cleaned up the welds a little more.

 

 

this can be obtained by twisting a flat screwdriver in the L-16 plate,it will not have as much adjustment as a "factory" L-20 one but is good enough.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

hell yea, i like that idea i bet my dremel tool could possibly improve upon that method a little bit

 

 

not alot of material to play with there :lol:

So be careful

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You do have the L16 pedastal tho?

 

yea my 521 came with a complete operational engine. I overhauled the whole thing (it was very old and running badly in every way ) if my dizzy was a single points system i would have remaned it and lived with the thing for a year or two but a dual points is just so damn pointless and useless so i am doing the upgrade

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

of course i got all that came with my dual points set up

 

and you have the ei dizzy?

if so thats all you need to "make" it work,a little crude,but it works.

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and you have the ei dizzy?

if so thats all you need to "make" it work,a little crude,but it works.

 

just bought the reman from rock auto today my whole engine is shiny and new wanted the dizzy to look the same (i dont care if i'm vain)

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

just bought the reman from rock auto today my whole engine is shiny and new wanted the dizzy to look the same (i dont care if i'm vain)

 

 

EI dizzy is one of the easiest and best simple mods you can do to a Datsun motor :cool:

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p.s. can/has someone used the gm hei as a back up to the matchbox? ive been looking for days now and couldnt find an awnser( i really dont like the idea of a 175 dollar special order part)

 

Yes, a GM module can be used to replace the Matchbox module. It is a horribly ugly conversion though.

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