sam Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 hi , so I got a 1969 510 ( first 510 , i always own 280z and 260z ) and I did the l20b freshly rebuild swap with a peanut head ( high compression head with 280z valves ) blah blah blah head work , either way i finished he build and i have a universal wiring harness so that i can have it brand new. my buddy give me directions in how to hot wire the car just to start it up .... here it goes i checked if everthing was TDC and it was , just no spark ? battery is connected , + to the starter and - to the starter bolt then a ground to the block and body battery + wire to the + coil bolt battery - wire to the - coil bolt coil - bolt grounded and then another wire of the - to the dizzy plug on the top part of the T connector coil + bolt wire to the vertical part of the T connector of the dizzy and the just a dummy wire to activate he starter .... here is the issue first time the coil got super hot and i had no spark anywhere , it was a ACCEL coil so i returned it and switched it with a MSD blaster 2 since those can use 12v directly but still no spark or anything . so i assumed that the dizzy is shot .... so i down graded and got a single point distributor took the old one off and i have worst issues , the once i connected the negative and positive the positive wire got so hot and i took it off quickly so i couldn't try it ...ohhh( every time i connect the possitive and negative to the battery to activate the coil sparks come out the battery ) at this point i have no idea if im HOT WIRING the car correctly , please some one help me or guide with this issue because i need to turn on this car .. how can i check if i really did fry my electronic distributor, how do i hot wire my car properly why dont i have spark??? sorry if i left out any info , i hope some one can help me asap .... i have no car and i need to finish this project to get to work soon :((( thank you Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 hi , so I got a 1969 510 ( first 510 , i always own 280z and 260z ) and I did the l20b freshly rebuild swap with a peanut head ( high compression head with 280z valves ) blah blah blah head work , either way i finished he build and i have a universal wiring harness so that i can have it brand new. my buddy give me directions in how to hot wire the car just to start it up .... here it goes i checked if everthing was TDC and it was , just no spark ? battery is connected , + to the starter and - to the starter bolt then a ground to the block and body battery + wire to the + coil bolt battery - wire to the - coil bolt coil - bolt grounded and then another wire of the - to the dizzy plug on the top part of the T connector coil + bolt wire to the vertical part of the T connector of the dizzy and the just a dummy wire to activate he starter .... here is the issue first time the coil got super hot and i had no spark anywhere , it was a ACCEL coil so i returned it and switched it with a MSD blaster 2 since those can use 12v directly but still no spark or anything . so i assumed that the dizzy is shot .... so i down graded and got a single point distributor took the old one off and i have worst issues , the once i connected the negative and positive the positive wire got so hot and i took it off quickly so i couldn't try it ...ohhh( every time i connect the possitive and negative to the battery to activate the coil sparks come out the battery ) at this point i have no idea if im HOT WIRING the car correctly , please some one help me or guide with this issue because i need to turn on this car .. how can i check if i really did fry my electronic distributor, how do i hot wire my car properly why dont i have spark??? sorry if i left out any info , i hope some one can help me asap .... i have no car and i need to finish this project to get to work soon :((( thank you The coil - is grounded through the module (if EI) or the points to ground. You do not ground this terminal or the coil will never fire.If left too long the coil is going to overheat. Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 The coil - is grounded through the module (if EI) or the points to ground. You do not ground this terminal or the coil will never fire.If left too long the coil is going to overheat. Ok if I get this right.thanks for writing back. We got power to b+ to the coil. Coil positive to battery and - grounded to the battery and body not to coil. Coil is still getting hot. And its a 12v dissy not points. Wat other steps should I take.... could a bad dissy make this happen? Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Yes that is how I had it set up exactly, the only difference is on the coil I had it also grounded to the body ..... why would my cool still get hot? When I put the dizzy on a voltage meter and put oms in it what should be the correct readings Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Well, in operation with the key on the module grounds the coil to generate a magnetic field. When cranking (or running) every time the reluctor signals, the module removes the ground briefly, the magnetic field collapses and generates a high voltage spark in the secondary windings. So any time the key is on there is current flow through the coil and it gets warm. If it is getting hot, I mean really HOT maybe you do not have an EI coil in there. If you are using the points coil that will be a problem. Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Reminder I have not key or harness at all in the car ... this is just a hot wire set up to turn on the motor, the distributor is a electronic one so everything else should be normal ..... right??? Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 So I checked the dizzy with a oum meter to the B and C and it reads nothing. My guess is there is no continuey power so something is fried on the dizzy, if so is there any way of fixing it? ?? Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Ok I have a crazy theoretical idea. I have a e12-80 for my 280z . Could I just take out the point or things to convert it to 4 point so it can work for my 510 ??? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 You should have put the 12volt wire on the +side coil from battery(allegator clip) Match Box with MSD coil B goes to +side coil C goes to - side coil hit the selinoid with a 12volt wire to crank the starter Of coarse the + side battery is to starter lug - side batter is ground to block or head when done running car pull the +side wire to coil You could have poped soemthing( Good Luck yourll need your friends help now for sure) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 So I checked the dizzy with a oum meter to the B and C and it reads nothing. My guess is there is no continuey power so something is fried on the dizzy, if so is there any way of fixing it? ?? For there to be continuity to ground on the C terminal of the module, there would have to be +12 on the B terminal to turn it on don't you think? Because the module is the ground for the coil, the distributor must be firmly and electrically grounded. Also you didn't get back about the coil. Is it a points coil? Having the negative side grounded to the body may have simply fried the coil. I'd check the continuity of the coil primary. Ok I have a crazy theoretical idea. I have a e12-80 for my 280z . Could I just take out the point or things to convert it to 4 point so it can work for my 510 ??? If you have the E12-80 module on your 280dizzy, just borrow it and put on your 510 4 cylinder dizzy to see it that fixes it. Make sure it's an E12-80 and not the later E12-93 module with a second set of wires that go on the left side... Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 For there to be continuity to ground on the C terminal of the module, there would have to be +12 on the B terminal to turn it on don't you think? Because the module is the ground for the coil, the distributor must be firmly and electrically grounded. Also you didn't get back about the coil. Is it a points coil? Having the negative side grounded to the body may have simply fried the coil. I'd check the continuity of the coil primary. If you have the E12-80 module on your 280dizzy, just borrow it and put on your 510 4 cylinder dizzy to see it that fixes it. Make sure it's an E12-80 and not the later E12-93 module with a second set of wires that go on the left side... basically i cant test the module when its out of the car with the ohms meter because its not grounded , it has to tested when its tightlly on the car then .... ok the coil i have is not a point coil , its a 12v msd blaster 2 , its the same coil as the one on the picture you posted . how can i test the coil to see if its still good ? ohh Doctor Death is coming friday to check everything and help me so cross your fingers please? Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 You should have put the 12volt wire on the +side coil from battery(allegator clip) Match Box with MSD coil B goes to +side coil C goes to - side coil hit the selinoid with a 12volt wire to crank the starter Of coarse the + side battery is to starter lug - side batter is ground to block or head when done running car pull the +side wire to coil You could have poped soemthing( Good Luck yourll need your friends help now for sure) now i understand lol i mested up on running a negative from the battery to the coil also :( now my worries are if i fried the coil or the dizzy , thats what i need to check now ... thank you for all your help guys . as soon as i figure out how to upload pictures i will do so , im lost lol Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 if you fried something, it was probably the coil. Quote Link to comment
sam Posted September 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 How do I check if the coil is bad? ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Ohm between the + and - terminals and should read 0.75 and 1.1 ohm on a standard EI dizzy coil. I don'r know what an after market coil is. Infinite resistance would be bad. Quote Link to comment
sam Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Ok I found out that my module was bad so now I'm putting the point on and I had to change the points to a new one ans its only one point ( single) and I need some guide how to time it and to make sure I can have this dizzy correct on to start it ... I wasn't sure which one has to stay open or close Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 I believe the points closest to the engine will be the main points to use. It will use the bigger condensor With points youll run a point resisiatnce coil and the ballast resisitor. blk/ wht wire goes to ballast then other side will go to the + side coil. Point car/truck will also have a HOT STart wire that goes directly to the coil during the start position with the key as it bybasses the ballast resisitor to give more current as the starter draws alot of power. make sure rotor is clocked right as matchboxes dizzys and L16 dizzys the rotor will point in a different direction Quote Link to comment
sam Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Which way should the vacuum thing be pointing at with the melt line Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 put it where you think is best Quote Link to comment
sam Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Which one is the ballest lol I'm trying to figure how to install the risistor Quote Link to comment
sam Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 She finally turns on! !! What happens if I don't use the risistors? ? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 points!!!!! need a ballast resisitor(1.6 ohms)& a point coil(at least 1.2 ohms) other wise points will burn up and or the condensore cant handle the extra current and start arching under the dist cap as it speeds up. will start popping cutting out sounding once the COIL Gets HOT and points start buring up. might run for a awhile Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.