atkinson40 Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 Trying to track down the oil leak and pulled the flywheel to check the rear main seal. I don't think the rear main seal is leaking but saw oil around the oil pan gasket and tightened up the oil pan bolts a tinny bit I saw movement and oil seepage along the line shown as I tightened the bolt below it. WTF?? -K Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 Yeah, there's a rubber 'curtain?' seal or strip that seals the vertical line in your picture. It's inserted from the bottom when the main bearing cap is installed. This is one of the few places where a small dab of RTV should be used in the corners to help seal the oil in. Can you drop the pan? If so the rear bearing cap can be removed and installed properly with sealant. Is it possible someone didn't tighten the main bearing cap bolts properly??? There shouldn't be any movement there. Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted September 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 Yeah, there's a rubber 'curtain?' seal or strip that seals the vertical line in your picture. It's inserted from the bottom when the main bearing cap is installed. This is one of the few places where a small dab of RTV should be used in the corners to help seal the oil in. Can you drop the pan? If so the rear bearing cap can be removed and installed properly with sealant. Is it possible someone didn't tighten the main bearing cap bolts properly??? There shouldn't be any movement there. There is movement. I've got the tranny out and right now and I put a little block of wood between the oil pan and the cross member to give the back of the engine a bit of support beyond the engine mounts. So it looks like if I can find a way to support the back of the engine I can remove the crossbar and the oil pan should come right out the back w/o removing anything else. -K Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Put a cherry picker up top to support the engine, then remove the bottom bar and yank the pan. Definitely should not be any movement on the rear main bearing cap. Those bolts are 36 ft-lbs if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 I pulled the pan and removed the bolts. They were tight so I can't figure why there was movement?? But there for sure was movement when I tightened the pan bolt. I also don't see a rubber curtain unless they are machined into the part as I've shown. That piece is in there tight and I don't want to remove unless needed. The only reason I can figure movement is if the bolt is too long and bottoming out?? Any ideas from those who've had the piece out?? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 I have no idea if they are called curtains, just seemed appropriate. There is a groove down each side of the bearing cap that these seals slide down into. Some come with small strips of metal that are pushed in after the seals to push them tightly against the block metal. These are for the Z series motor but I'm sure they are the same and could be used in an L series. Once the bearing cap is off (see that small threaded hole between the bolt holes? that's for screwing a slide puller into) I have always found you can wiggle them while pulling downward on them and they will come out. Once out you can seethat a small dab of RTV will help seal the joint cracks. . Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 There are little ridges or lips on those side seals They go towards the block, if one side is larger than the other,... install that side toward block. Coat with gasket sealer...tap them in gently. For 2 piece side seals, tap the steel shims in between the cap and seal. If one side is beveled, put this towards cap. Small screwdriver to tap shims as far as possible New seals stick out of cap about 1mm...so trim flush Also slather inside corners of block....where it meats the cap Bolt and pry bar to remove rear cap Make sure the rear cap is flush with the back of the block on reassemble.....or at least in the same position as when removed. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Thanks Doug that's way better. Bearings are removed for inspection all the time so all you have to do is put back the way you found it. Quote Link to comment
atkinson40 Posted September 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 OK Thanks. I don't see the seals in my engine gasket kit so I'm wondering what luck I'll have pulling out and reusing them? Also when I change the real main seal do I coat the inner and outer ring surfaces of the seal with oil or leave them dry? -K Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 OK Thanks. I don't see the seals in my engine gasket kit so I'm wondering what luck I'll have pulling out and reusing them? Also when I change the real main seal do I coat the inner and outer ring surfaces of the seal with oil or leave them dry? -K You might be able to use the old ones...BUT....they are pretty cheap and if it leaks...well.. Sealant/RTV on the outside of rear seal....oil/grease on inside lip 1 Quote Link to comment
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