bilzbobaggins Posted September 21, 2011 Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 Now I know why my outter wheel bearing is toast. The washer that seperates and protects the bearing was missing!!! Ive got the wheel bearing race out(figured out a cool trick to help me), and now Im ready for reassembly. I have part numbers 40037-04100 and 40264-E3200. How do I tell which one I need? I dont see a date of succession on the part. I dont want to toast this new bearing and NEED THIS TRUCK TO TAKE THE BIKE TO THE CABIN TOMMAROW!! Please help. Im researching now to try n find a solution. My trick to knock the race out was as follows. Dont have a vice so I put the hub back on the wheel and used two lugs to hold it still. Made life super easier!!!Got the old race right out! Thanks Jeff Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2011 does anyone have the dimension's of the washer? I really dont want to take the other side apart so I can find something. Im running outta time. Still have to work on the cooling system and a little more brake work Thanks Jeff Im guessing any washer that fits would be good Quote Link to comment
Elkie Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 The washer has a nub that sticks into the center that matches the spindle and prevents it from turning. I can get you measurements if you just want to use a normal one. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 1 Quote Link to comment
Elkie Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 beat me to it, 3/4" inner and 1 13/16"outer Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 I don't get your trick with the removing the race. The hub isn't held on by lugnuts. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Thanks for all the replies. Im fixing to crash for the night. I have a headache from this day. Ill post some pics up of what I was talking about. If you bolt the hub back to the wheel, you can have both hands free for pounding on the race to knock it back out. Getting up early in the a.m. to rig that bitch back up. Thanks again Jeff Quote Link to comment
Elkie Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 I think he was saying he mounted the hub on the wheel to hold it while he knocked out the race. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Well, I lied. I cant sleep and it supposed to be shitty weather(but oh pound the gods, do we need rain) tommarow, so im fixing to run back to the bowling center and go through the shop and see if I cant find something similar to the washer with the notch. There is a chance of that. I used to work in the back and seem to remember us using a washer like that on the back of the gear boxes to align the drive pully up with the motors. If I cannot find one, ill just grab a washer for the time being. With the hub bolted back to the wheel, you have both hands free. Also, it gets the hub back off the ground so that once the race gets flush with the hub, you can continue to drive it out. Sure someones thought of it before, but wanted to share it. Thanks Again Jeff Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 I pull the wheel seals off by just tugging on the hub with the locknut on the spindle... but I can't fathom how on earth the race comes out in the same fashion. Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted September 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 Unless im misreading the fsm, it shows and reads that you use a brass punch and a mallet to tap it out. There are two flat spots 180 degrees apart that worked well to knock it out. That bitch was in there. The wheel helps keep it still. Had no bench or vice to work on. And I came up empty on any thing to use at work for the washer. Ill have to go to a hardware store in the morn. Will call local dealership to see if they might just have one. I dont know how to post the fsm, its on a pdf file. But a pic of my cabin shifter!! :) Sold the last bud draft tonight. Loosing its place to yeungling. But this will be fun! Thanks Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 The body bolts on a 521 are standard American thread size. the front fender bolts are 1/4-28 with a 7/16 head. There might be a similar sized tabbed washer available at almost any auto parts stores or at a place that sells parts (and axles) for trailers. Quote Link to comment
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