mountainman Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Hi I've got ab 81 210 with a15 motor and auto trans. This issue used to be periodic but is progressivly worsening. Sometimes when I start the car it dies, I have to flutter the pedal to keep it running, power brake at lights. Shudders while cruising then after a while runs fine. So whatever is is isn't quite broken and im all by myself too so I have noone to assist me. Not sure if its ignition or fuel. Baffles me that after a while it runs fine and will idle at 500 rpm. Ideas? Don't wanna start replacing a bunch of crap but I feel im at that part of the road. Quote Link to comment
mountainman Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Oh yea new plugs cap and rotor installed. Is the distributor on these things decent? Thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Turn the idle up, 500 is too low. 650-750 sounds better. Dave?? Quote Link to comment
mountainman Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Sorry I meant 1500 rpm. Its always been at 1500 in park and drops to about 1100 in gear Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Wow, way too high. This is rough on an automatic when shifting into drive. It shocks the drive train. Poor idle can be: Badly adjusted valve lash... tight valve not closing. Poorly adjusted idle mixture. Timing too retarded (sorry advance challenged) Vacuum leak. Loose carb or intake manifold, leaking EGR valve, leaking power brake booster or hose..... Quote Link to comment
mountainman Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Wow sounds like I've got quite a bit on my plate. So yesterday it was running well and I was spraying starter fluid around to see if I had a cracked gasket or vaccume leak, no leads. Then I started cutting off vaccume lines to kill it again mo leads. I did however replace a plug and noticed a misfire took off the plug wire and noticed a less than consistent arc... think im gonna grab some plug wires and see where that goes. Im leaning away from vaccume Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 What`s the lowest it will idle.? Are you using a actual tach to gauge rpm or guessing ?. Set idle the lowest it will go then use carb cleaner and watch tach sometimes it isn`t really noticeable by ear as you might think ( especially at 1500 rpms ).Is choke open or closed when it is running poorly .<<>>.is it open or shut when it is running good ? Does it always run good at highway speed or not.? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Yes, Datsun 210 have a very good and reliable electronic ignition distributor. When the engine is fully warm, idle should be at 650 RPM is Drive. If it won't idle down that low, then you have a real problem. You can test the spark plug wires, they last for decades. * One by one, remove a wire from the cap. If the metal end is corroded, yet the other plug wires look good, that indicates the cylinder is not firing correctly. * Check the spark plug wires with an ohm-meter. It should read somewhere around 1,000 ohms per inch ** If a plug wire reads 0 ohms, or much lower than the others (per length) it is bad * Replace those wires that are bad. Looks for burns, cuts, bubbles or detached metals ends Likewise inspect the cap & rotor. Mine are 30 years old still working perfectly. * You can carefully scrape the metal contacts inside the cap to bare metal * Scrape the edge of the rotor to bare metal * Look for burn marks inside or out, look like black scratches. Replace if any are found. Quote Link to comment
mountainman Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 So the old cap and rotor had the scorch marks filed the down ran better got scorched again replaced them worked well. (3 months ago) now they are scorched again. I filed them. I cannot look at the engine while she is running rough, it died when I take my foot off the gas. Primary in the Darb looked wet but the secondary is clean and dry or vise versa. Currently waiting for my new wires and coil to show up kinda just want to rule out the ignition. Have a rebuild kit on hand for Darb may wind up doing that after wires coil and timing check. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 You mean black marks on the metal parts inside the cap? That's normal and don't cause a problem. On the other hand, burnt marks on the plastic part of the cap, if that happens throw the cap away. Any suggestions? Yes, buy some more parts, maybe another carb. Eventually you will replace the parts that are causing the problem. For example, if contaminated fuel is in the carburetor, then replacing the carb will get it out. Or rebuilding the carb will do the same. Or you could test and inspect, clean and tighten loose parts without spending any money. Either way it takes time. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Datzen mike said "advanced challenged" thats frickin hilarious :rofl: Quote Link to comment
mountainman Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Just got done rebuilding carb. It looked prety bad in there. I will install in the morning... hopefully I didnt jack anything up. That thing is a tough little bugger. Might have to put a predator carb on here if it doesent work. Then I could toast all this ca emissions crap. Quote Link to comment
mountainman Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Installed carb ran well for about a minute. Same ol song and dance. I couldn't finda mark on the crank pulley to do the timing with. Could egr valves and what not have am affect? Quote Link to comment
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