wiring...

[Stupid_fast]

Yikes. Does the manufacturer have insurance if it burned your car down???

 

No idea... I'm pretty sure I have the receipt but I think I bought it over a month ago. :( I'm pretty sure I have all the info that came with it. At this point, I think I'm just gonna go buy another one at the store I don't want to wait a week to get the car running!

[banzai510(hainz)]

http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-178-8025-Ignition-Coil/dp/B000CB593K

15$ good price

 

Laecaon

 

looks different than yours but same part #???????????

 

I click to a couple other sites and list for a Toyota.

Be honest your looks better.

[Stupid_fast]

For the fusible links, I found out that the Datsun requires 20 gauge, 0.5 sq mm fusible link. I'm wondering, can I use a connector with it, or is it better to just directly splice the cables together?

[Laecaon]

http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-178-8025-Ignition-Coil/dp/B000CB593K

15$ good price

 

Laecaon

 

looks different than yours but same part #???????????

 

I click to a couple other sites and list for a Toyota.

Be honest your looks better.

 

That is exactly what I got. Amazon has the picture wrong. You can go to Beck Arnleys page and look it up.

 

Here is another product that has the wrong picture up. http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-072-1233-Clutch-Cylinder/dp/B000CAXYB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1312830040&sr=8-4

I ordered that and got a complete clutch slave cylinder.

 

And if you go to Beck/Arnleys product page for this coil, expect to see a massive list.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Stupid,

Datzemike had the part number for the fisable links at one time I believe.

 

Laecaon

I like you coil setup.

[Stupid_fast]

Stupid,

Datzemike had the part number for the fisable links at one time I believe.

 

Laecaon

I like you coil setup.

 

Yeah the part number is 24022-89905...maybe 24022-N4200, those are 510/280z part numbers. as posted on http://datsun1200.co...?title=Fuse_Box

 

 

The fusible link for Datsun 510 is 20 gauge, 0.5 sq mm.

 

I ordered some 20 gauge fusible link from amazon ... So the question is it OK to use a connector, or should I splice it?

[banzai510(hainz)]

i like the stock set up myself.

[Stupid_fast]

i like the stock set up myself.

 

Its just spliced in ... Would work fine, but more annoying to replace it it blows again. I"ll probably just splice it OE style, its the most direct connection.

 

 

Also have a quick question about the cig lighter, I do sometimes run a laptop/power inverter through there in our family van on long trips, ect. I'm wondering will the stock datsun wiring take that kind of current? I know my 92 toyota does not!

 

I'm thinking of wiring in a 400w, so from the battery wire two wires with an inline fuse, going into the passenger compartment, mount the inverter to the trans tunnel? So I know the stock datsun alternator wont handle that since its only 35 amp... So how much power does the stock wiring take? A 60 amp alt should be good enough?

 

Thanks. ..

[banzai510(hainz)]

worry about getting everything working first then you can look into routing a wire from the battery using your method.

 

I thinks it doable but with out wipers and heater, light on all at once.Is a long trip in a 510 worth it?

[Stupid_fast]

worry about getting everything working first then you can look into routing a wire from the battery using your method.

 

I thinks it doable but with out wipers and heater, light on all at once.Is a long trip in a 510 worth it?

 

Yeah, I agree. Once my fusible links get here I think I'm going to use the old alt the p/o gave me. seemed solid. I just wanted something new, thought it would be more reliable.

 

Well wipers, heater, and lights would be very nice. BTW I'm going to JCCS next month!!

 

Most other trips will probably be done in the family van like they always have (99' ford... we are the original owners. More spacious than a datsun!).

[ggzilla]

Why would you pay $15, when they are only $8 at the Nissan dealer? And they fit the stock connectors.

 

You can use any 0.5 (20 gauge) fusible link, Ford, Chrysler whatever and splice it in. Those are as cheap as $4.

[Stupid_fast]

Why would you pay $15, when they are only $8 at the Nissan dealer? And they fit the stock connectors.

 

You can use any 0.5 (20 gauge) fusible link, Ford, Chrysler whatever and splice it in. Those are as cheap as $4.

 

They where $6 for three... Any nissan dealer usually carries the parts? Hmm, I might call.

 

 

edit, More wires, these where bundled next to the wiper motor. One blue with weird end boot(choke?), blue/yellow, red/blue, red/black... Cant figure out what these go to.

 

 

So I went to kragan, talked to the 240z owner there he traded back the alt for a new one. As I have time tell the fusible links arrive, I could not resist asking for a higher powered unit. So I got this 50amp(?) internally regulated 78 200sx alt. I read the dime quarterly article on it, and seems I can wire it in pretty easily.

 

 

 

Only question I have is about correctly wiring the choke... DQ article said I need a 12v choke relay unit?

 

Thanks!

[banzai510(hainz)]

youll have to do the jumper conversion and Yes do soemthing with the choke relay as if you leave it in right now it will drain the battery

[ggzilla]

Didn't your 1972 510 come with an automatic choke originally? Should have a relay already. If you do it can run the battery down when you fit the newer type alternator.

 

If it doesnt have a relay, that's OK, it don't need a choke relay. You can connect it to the 12V switched (such as the ballast resistor 12V side).

 

That being said it is better if you use a relay.

 

Here's a writeup on Datsun choke wiring: Choke wiring.

[Stupid_fast]

Didn't your 1972 510 come with an automatic choke originally? Should have a relay already. If you do it can run the battery down when you fit the newer type alternator.

 

If it doesnt have a relay, that's OK, it don't need a choke relay. You can connect it to the 12V switched (such as the ballast resistor 12V side).

 

That being said it is better if you use a relay.

 

Here's a writeup on Datsun choke wiring: Choke wiring.

 

Whats the work-around for the relay? on DQ said to use a 12v unit? A generic or actual datsun? I'm searching this stuff now.

 

For this weekend, can I just hook it up to the IGN coil + ? I'm using a pertronix coil remember. I really really want to get it running this weekend so I can work out all the problems in the next few weeks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

you can run a wire from the ballast resisitor blk/wht wire to the choke.

 

I myself dont use the electric choke i loosen the 2 or 3 screws on that ring that hold the ROUND piece. an just turn the MOFO to the plate is fully open. Pump the gas a few times and hit the key and pump the gas till warm.

 

Unless stock from factory I could never get the choke setting correct. They either stay on too long or not long enough. So I said fuck it.

[Stupid_fast]

you can run a wire from the ballast resisitor blk/wht wire to the choke.

 

I myself dont use the electric choke i loosen the 2 or 3 screws on that ring that hold the ROUND piece. an just turn the MOFO to the plate is fully open. Pump the gas a few times and hit the key and pump the gas till warm.

 

Unless stock from factory I could never get the choke setting correct. They either stay on too long or not long enough. So I said fuck it.

 

OK, I'll see what I can do with that. Thanks!!

 

It seems my 32/36 has an idle cut solenoid ... I have to power that also? Same just hook it up to +12v to have it open ?

[banzai510(hainz)]

yes youll need that also to open the selinoid.

 

I think is going to look tacky with all those wires comming from the blk/wht wire.

 

Just to let you know there is a blu wire under the fise box that is the air cond wire and maybe you can pull that out if your able to get under the fuse box and route a wire from there rout it along the back hideing it/ then hook it up to the choke and double wire that(daisey chain) ,then rout the other wire to the selinoid .

This would look alot cleaner.

 

be leary not all the screw come out the fuse box. so if you strip a screw then maybe dont worry about it.

[ggzilla]

Doesn't your 1972 come with automatic choke orginally? If so, no workaround needed.

[Stupid_fast]

yes youll need that also to open the selinoid.

 

I think is going to look tacky with all those wires comming from the blk/wht wire.

 

Just to let you know there is a blu wire under the fise box that is the air cond wire and maybe you can pull that out if your able to get under the fuse box and route a wire from there rout it along the back hideing it/ then hook it up to the choke and double wire that(daisey chain) ,then rout the other wire to the selinoid .

This would look alot cleaner.

 

be leary not all the screw come out the fuse box. so if you strip a screw then maybe dont worry about it.

 

 

I was wondering what that blue wire was!! I am decent at tucking wires to make them look good, so I think I can hook something up nicely.

 

Doesn't your 1972 come with automatic choke orginally? If so, no workaround needed.

 

Yes, it had an automatic choke relay... behind the battery. Wont that drain the battery if I leave it in stock configuration??

[ggzilla]

Dimequarterly says "You need to REPLACE the choke relay with a 12V item"

 

However I say you do not need to replace the relay. You can disconnect the relay, and connect to the choke wire to switched 12V (e.g. the ballast resistor. If you don't have one, then the coil + terminal).

 

As before, it is better to use a relay but you don't NEED one.

[Stupid_fast]

OK I see, I read your post wrong.

 

edit, OK I followed the DQ article... Jumped white/red to white/black, and white to yellow. The white to yellow connection shorts the distributor ground!! What am I doing wrong?!

 

I'm testing it with a multimeter right now.

 

 

edit, more troubleshooting... the yellow wire from the external regulator harness is shorted to ground! Help?!

 

edit, OK, white blue, black, and yellow are all shorted to ground. I'm assuming this is just a fucked harness, and I do not want to rewire my whole car right now.

 

What should I do ?!

 

Thanks..

 

edit, fixed it. I removed/capped off the existing alternator ground wire and everything is connected OK now.. I'm pretty sure some stuff got melted when the fusible blew. :(

 

 

 

 

Edit, OK lack of electrical knowledge was tricking me. My dad came in and helped me everything looks good now.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Edit, OK lack of electrical knowledge was tricking me. My dad came in and helped me everything looks good now.

 

Well what was that? I like to know.

 

I bet the wiring was OK.

[Stupid_fast]

Edit, OK lack of electrical knowledge was tricking me. My dad came in and helped me everything looks good now.

 

Well what was that? I like to know.

 

I bet the wiring was OK.

 

Well, there was a short on the alternator ground wire. So I eliminated that, then it was showing some resistance from NEG batt connection to posi, but it was a ridiculous amount of resistance which means not a problem. Since it was showing resistance I thought there was a short.

 

 

edit, Hey I got another question. I've been searching it but with little luck. When I had the battery in before testing the lights, ect the emergency flashers worked but not the turn signals... They are just solid lights no flashing. Whats the best way to fix that?

 

 

edit, OK everythings hooked up and good. Plugged in battery, all good!! only thing left is to fill up coolant and prime fuel... so I filled up coolant and... water pump is leaking.... BAD.

[Stupid_fast]

Argh!! The headlights don't work now!! Is there something in the alt circuit that could effect them? Maybe not having the side markers installed ??

 

Thanks...