wiring...

[Stupid_fast]

Hello, I almost have my engine completely assembled, but I have a few questions.

 

I have a wiring diagram but its not completely detailed for installing stuff without an original reference. (I bought the car with the engine out.)

 

Firstly, is the ground wire my alternator hooked up correctly?

 

 

These wires are next to the ignition coil, I know the white/red connects to coil positive, black to coil negative, and the yellow wire to the temp sender. There are two black/blue stripe wires here... what do they connect to? Those are not in my wiring diagram.

 

What connects to the electric choke, and that connector on the carburetor(I think its called idle cutoff ??)

 

thanks.

[ggzilla]

The ground wire on the alternator normally connect to the 'E" terminal. But it is OK like that as long as it is securely fastened. E is for Earth (ground).

[Stupid_fast]

The ground wire on the alternator normally connect to the 'E" terminal. But it is OK like that as long as it is securely fastened. E is for Earth (ground).

 

This alt does not look like it has that E terminal... I looked for it, I will look again tomorrow.

[ggzilla]

It is a small bolt with 8mm (5/16") head goes in the left hole marked 'E':

 

(stock 510 alternator)

[Stupid_fast]

It is a small bolt with 8mm (5/16") head goes in the left hole marked 'E':

 

(stock 510 alternator)

 

Ah, I will change that around. I was looking for a pre-installed bolt. Thanks!

 

I can see the E another pic I took, here.

[Laecaon]

Yay pictures to the help!

 

Ok yea, I know my coil is odd, picture was wrong online, but whatevs it works.

 

So your W/R goes to the resistor on the side not connected to the Positive side of coil.

 

On my coil there is a wire(came part of the coil) that goes from resistor to Positive. You plug B/L(black blue) into the other end of the resistor.

 

B/G plugs into positive side of Coil (In my case just right next to B/L as its all the same circuit wise.

 

Finally the Black plugs into the Neg side of coil.

 

 

Additionally, you yellow wire is actually for the brake switch. There is another yellow wire nearby for the water temp but the brake switch one comes out of the harness with the group of wires described here.

[Stupid_fast]

Ah forgot to mention I am running a pertronix unit +ignitor coil. As far as my research what I've been reading is that the ignitor has a resistor built in... 3.0 Ohm, so the external one is optional. If I do I can go pick one up. Maybe I have one in my parts stash.

 

The yellow wire is ... *edit, It is in fact the yellow/green stripe for the brake sensor. I reconnected this line to the right place.

 

I'll take a look at the whole harness again today and see if I can find anything else out.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

^@ laecon, this is a goon, also!! My ign + wire is a black/white.

 

 

 

edit, OK I just took a look at the harness again, found this cluster of wires taped together...

 

 

OK, so theres a 2-wire black/red stripe(Goes to ign coil +?) , cut solid yellow(temp sender?), and a black/yellow stripe with a connector(Choke? Maybe something else?).

 

 

[Laecaon]

Ah forgot to mention I am running a pertronix unit +ignitor coil. As far as my research what I've been reading is that the ignitor has a resistor built in... 3.0 Ohm, so the external one is optional. If I do I can go pick one up. Maybe I have one in my parts stash.

 

Oh, so if you have no resistor, I do believe you simply plug the White/Red in with the Black/Blue.

 

My understanding is that the Black Blue is only used for starting and skips the resistor for a hotter spark. Car actually runs off the White/Red. Without a resistor you can combine the two.

 

As for getting a resistor, dont do it. 3.0 Ohm is what you want.

[Stupid_fast]

Oh, so if you have no resistor, I do believe you simply plug the White/Red in with the Black/Blue.

 

My understanding is that the Black Blue is only used for starting and skips the resistor for a hotter spark. Car actually runs off the White/Red. Without a resistor you can combine the two.

 

As for getting a resistor, dont do it. 3.0 Ohm is what you want.

Cool, thanks! ^see my edited post above... I have more wiring stuff to figure out.

[Laecaon]

The double, black/red goes to the side of a points distributor for the points. I dont know how to wire a pertronix kit there...

 

That yellow is indeed for water temp

 

And the black/yellow, I think also goes to the distributor, but mine has never been connected.

 

If you are noticing, they tried to group things together for each spot the harness ends up at.

[Stupid_fast]

The double, black/red goes to the side of a points distributor for the points. I dont know how to wire a pertronix kit there...

 

That yellow is indeed for water temp

 

And the black/yellow, I think also goes to the distributor, but mine has never been connected.

 

If you are noticing, they tried to group things together for each spot the harness ends up at.

 

OK, I will probably just cap those off, then.

 

Yes, now I see they grouped things together... I thought that at first but I was confused about what went where. The wiring diagram I have is not very complete.

 

So what I've done is hooked up the black/green, black/blue, black/white, pertronix red to coil +, solid black, pertronix black to coil -. Yellow/green goes to brake sensor thing, yellow solid goes to temp sender.

 

Thanks again for the help!

Now I just gotta get to radioshack to get some more connectors to replace the old corroded ones. I can do it not with my awesome new wire crimper.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont know where this red/ wht wire come from??????? ITs NOT needed!!!!!!!

 

what you need is a

blk/wht wire. this is 12 volt with key ON this goes to one side of ballast resisitor.

Blk /blu is the 12volt STRT wire. mean 12volt only in start position.

blk/grn come from the other side of the ballast.

 

READ THIS and LOOK!!!!!!!

the "Dime Quarterly" has the basic color and diagram in eleltrical section!

also page 181 on the Haynes manual has the diagram also.

 

the blk/red is the old points wire set up.YOU DONT NEED THIS anymore with a Pertronix.(Pertronix only fit single point dizzys)Or Matcbox

 

 

 

stupid!

pertronix red to coil +,

You want this red wire to go the the blk/wht wire as this is the 12volt ON switchble.

 

since you have a pertronix use the stock point coil and the stock ballast resisitor.Dont be just grabbing coils if you do then you have to be specific. If you have a 3ohm coil thern you really dont need a ballast and has to be wired different.the blk/wht short with the blk/blu(3 ohm coil)If your using this set up then YES the red of Pertrnix goes here also. I personally like the stock set up as you bypass the resisiter and will get a better START as youll double the current.

 

 

Laecaon

YOu have the blk/blu and blk/grn shorted to one side of ballast resisitor. YOU KNOW THEY ARE ALREADY SHORTED IN THE WIRE HARNESS!!!????????? So I dont get how this is working

If you have a matchbox you dont need the ballast but it does help keep to much current running thru the key switch. If your still running points this will still burn them upfaster as you have a low resisitance coil in there.

I cant tell if that resisitor goes with the coil or not.

 

Stupid PM your email and I can send a pertronix schmatic(instructions) but this is already on the Dime Quartery section in Electrical.

[Laecaon]

Laecaon

YOu have the blk/blu and blk/grn shorted to one side of ballast resisitor. YOU KNOW THEY ARE ALREADY SHORTED IN THE WIRE HARNESS!!!????????? So I dont get how this is working

If you have a matchbox you dont need the ballast but it does help keep to much current running thru the key switch. If your still running points this will still burn them upfaster as you have a low resisitance coil in there.

I cant tell if that resisitor goes with the coil or not.

 

yes Black/Blue and Black/Green are shorted. They are supposed to be. If they are already shorted in the harness this will not make a difference.

 

I have a single point dist. The coil and resistor came together in the package. Coil specifically says "use with external resistor". My wiring is as the diagram shows.

[Stupid_fast]

Hey hainz, I have a 3.0 ohm resistance pertronix ignitor coil, and ignitor 1 in the dizzy. This setup was the one listed compatable on the pertronix site and the one I chose after lots of research!!

 

I have three stock coils I got from p/o, but no ballast resistor. Remember I bought this car INCOMPLETE with just chassis, seperate engine, trans, various trivial parts such as coilovers. I have put this together with no good reference as this is my first car project! Please be patient with me as I know I have very little knowledge compared to a lot of you!

 

The wires I have coming from the harness are yellow/green(brake switch thingy) black/white, black/blue, black/green, solid black. The wires from the dizzy/pertronix are red/black.

 

OK, I'm going to be running the full pertronix ignition setup, so what I've gathered from your post the black/white, black/blue, and pertronix RED go to coil POSITIVE. Both solid black/ground go to coil NEGATIVE.

 

2nd part of harness - engine

Black/red is for old POINTS, can be capped/isolated to make sure it does not short to anything. Black/yellow is something for dizzy also? Can be capped? Yellow is for temp sender.

 

Carburetor - Weber 32/36

There are two connections, one for the choke, another that is a sensor thing that goes into the carb. I researched a bit and found the choke can be wired to any +12v that is ON when the car is at the ON position?

 

I'm currently removing/putting new connections on most of the old really corroded stuff. I want to get this start-able today if possible! Looks like I'm going to make JCCS.

 

Thanks!!

[Laecaon]

Black/Yellow is for the second set of points I do beleive. Since you are going EI, no need for it.

[Stupid_fast]

So uh... I just plugged in the battery. And... The fusible link burned itself to hell.

 

help.

 

edit, damnit... damn thing is shorted... pain to find this. :S

 

 

edit2, The NEW alternater is shorted... took the plastic cover off and it fixed... stupid remanufactered POS.

 

Now, where do I buy a fusible link?

[ggzilla]

Nissan sells the fusible link. Just a few bucks.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Laecaon

the dwg shows what I have on my 510.

the blk/wht is the 12volt ON from fuse box, will call this the HIgh side.

the blk/blu should go to the lower side (voltage) of the ballast resisitor.

the blk/grn will go to the +side coil.

this completes the circut to cut the voltage/current to the coil as Pertronix or POINTS want a low current otherwise the points will burn up. Pertronix want under 4 amps that means about 3 ohms.

PS the blk/grn and blk/blu are shorted(C clipped) under the tape a few inches . so if these wires are swapped from the ballast or +coil, its still OK.

 

so Laecan your not getting the full Potential(spark) at "Start" This is used when motor is COLD. so just during START as your battery is under load. Under 12volts usaully.READ: You should take one of those wires and hook it up to the +side of coil. So the drawing you should me YOU have it almost correct. You have the Ballast resistor hooked up to the +side coil and the blk/blu&blkgrn on the down side.

 

Be nice to know the resistance value of YOUR coil and resisitor.Looks like a neat set up.

 

 

Stupid

OK, I'm going to be running the full pertronix ignition setup, so what I've gathered from your post the black/white, black/blue, and pertronix RED go to coil POSITIVE. Both solid black/ground go to coil NEGATIVE.

 

Yes that is correct.!!!!!!! I dont like this myself as you will still be going thru a 3ohm resistance during the START position but I seen it work in another guys 510. If in a cold area or motor is not timmed correctly it might be harder to START

 

Personally the Pertronix coil is NOT NEEDED and prefer the stock setup as the result of the stock Datsun coil and ballast comes out to 3.2 ohms which is the same thing.

 

I use the stock connectors and use a piggyback jumper so I dont have to cut the stock wires.

[ggzilla]

Pertronix has a built-in resistor? That means it is not a high energy ignition like the Datsun units (1978 pre-matchbox and all matchboxes are high energy, can use a large spark plug gap).

[Stupid_fast]

OK thanks for the help! I will go buy a new alternator, fusible links and get this running hopefully tuesday...

[banzai510(hainz)]

I been updating the above post so reread.

 

 

as for the alternator be careful. I never seen a alternator do that before. Seen a shorterd diaode where it would drain a battery

 

I would ck to mae sure you dont have a short from fusable link lug to ground

[Laecaon]

So, The coil is Beck Arnley 178-8025. It comes with the resistor, and a wire already running from the resistor to the + of the coil.

 

So, B/W-->Resistor-->B/L;B/G--> Bridge to +

 

So no need to change the wires at all. As it is connected to the +.

 

I know what you are saying. And I am saying it is already like that.

[banzai510(hainz)]

So, B/W-->Resistor-->B/L;B/G--> Bridge to +

 

 

COORECT, I just couldnt see this setup or wire. If your running a single point dizzy I would highly think of getting a Pertronix for your car. Points just suck! I love my Pertronix sytems and run the same dizzy cap for 5-7 years.

[Stupid_fast]

I been updating the above post so reread.

 

 

as for the alternator be careful. I never seen a alternator do that before. Seen a shorterd diaode where it would drain a battery

 

I would ck to mae sure you dont have a short from fusable link lug to ground

 

I checked the alt with a multimeter, there is an insolation problem inside it! ! the A connection shorts to E/ground, when I wiggled a connection it stopped contacting!!

[ggzilla]

Yikes. Does the manufacturer have insurance if it burned your car down???