Timing, Distributors, vacuums, and questions.

[H5WAGON]

I've got a couple points distributers lying about, would you like em? Maybe this just means it's time for a electronic ignition. I love mine. I got mine a cost less auto parts for something around $100 bucks with coil and resistor. PM me if you would like to have my old distributor. One was off my l18 and the other was off a l20, I think. Hope you get it timed the way you like.

 

Oh I heard that webers have that hesitation with quick pedal applications. Mine does the exact same thing. It got less pronounced after cleaning it and getting my idle speed and mixture perfect. Hang in there.

 

I also have some other single point dist....;) a bunch of dual point.

 

Maybe broken springs in Dist. have you taken it apart? Or rusty.....:o

 

Does your Vac./advance still have the metal tube....:unsure:

[datzenmike]

To go back to your original concern of why your timing had become so advanced, you say the point gap was near zero and you opened it up to spec. If the point gap is made wider the lobes will strike the points rubbing block sooner which will advance the timing by twice distributor degrees. If point gap is changed, timing must also be changed. So whatever other ignition problems there may be, you need look no further for why it became advanced.

 

I think you are very close on this but just like the cam/valve timing, increasing the gap means the cam would have to travel a bit further to make contact with the rubbing block. Timing would, I think, be slightly retarded. Either way the timing would be very affected by changing the point gap.

[datzenmike]

This thread is now on hiatus.

 

I sprang a leak of the red fluid.

 

Tranny swap is now next on the to do list.

 

Depends on the leak location. If at the back then maybe a rear seal. (easy fix and cheap) Red fluid is good, brown or black is really bad. Maybe a loose cooling line, hose clamp?

 

Laecaon, didn't we talk at Canby for half an hour? I enjoyed discussing your goon. (more likely I did all the talking:o)

[hogboy52]

I think you are very close on this but just like the cam/valve timing, increasing the gap means the cam would have to travel a bit further to make contact with the rubbing block. Timing would, I think, be slightly retarded. Either way the timing would be very affected by changing the point gap.

 

 

This may seem so But but when the base point is spaced farther away, the moving point has to travel farther to come in contact and the rubbing block is closer to the cam when the points are closed. The points will close later and will open sooner which is when the spark occurs.

[datzenmike]

lol, I think you're right. I haven't thought of points much since the 70s. (old technology) :lol:

[Laecaon]

Depends on the leak location. If at the back then maybe a rear seal. (easy fix and cheap) Red fluid is good, brown or black is really bad. Maybe a loose cooling line, hose clamp?

 

Laecaon, didn't we talk at Canby for half an hour? I enjoyed discussing your goon. (more likely I did all the talking:o)

 

Leak location is a broken hose right at the radiator. Broke off the threaded hose end... Fluid was very bright red. Looked like my car had PMS. My driveway is a slope downwards.

 

Yes we did talk at canby. We discussed a few cars. Yes it was a good time.

 

Anyways, this thread is probably now never going to be really useful to me.

 

Car is now in the garage. Motor and Tranny are getting pulled. Using this opportunity to pain the bay. I am picking up Izzo's L18, which happens to have a pertronix kit on the distributor.

 

So yes, new motor, new tranny, new distributor. I dont think this thread will apply :)

 

Thanks all!

 

and Hog, I think you nailed the source of "my" problems. It was just odd as my points had no gap when I opened the cap, and the points are relatively new.