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help needed asap please!

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i cant get my car into second gear for the life of me. i assume its just old and worn out checked the fluid it was clean so dont know why it went. cant manually pull it into 2nd either why is this? just hoping to get it fixed by tomorrow casue i have to make a commute to school. if its something easy i hope to get the lights on it and fix it by tonight if not then i need a new transmission. thanks for the help


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There should be a downshift switch on the accelerator peddle. If adjusted incorrectly it will be in constant down shift. It should click only near full throttle.


i know what you mean by clicking and yes it does only do that if its floored from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to first. how do i adjust this switch? and why does this prevent me from manually selecting gears? it over rides when in 1 or 2 and wont shift out of or into a different gear. normally if i put it into 2nd it will stay in second until i pop it into drive. now it wont even go into second. shift linkage? it revs hard like first gear in 2nd but will drop into real first if i just pull it into first. i can get it to jump to D but only after a sick valve floating redline.


dave i would be all over that but i have an auto. if its everything to convert to 4speed count me in.

edit: btw i checked up on your old datsun for sale thread. i also need a spedometer cable too. (well dont need casue i can judge speed pretty accurately) but it would be good to have. auto speedo cable same as manual?

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I bet you that I got everything... maby, and I mean maby, less the master ant slave. But I got the brake and clutch pedal assembly for your car... you wanting???


Cheep Cheep like the birds say!

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What gear is is stuck in? PARK?


If you take this out of logging roads...a branch may have hit the side of the transmission and messed up the shifter position. But from your description it could be many different things. Give us more details.

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Hmmm yes the shift lever over rides. If placed in second it won't up shift to third. Same if first is selected it won't up shift to second.



it revs hard like first gear in 2nd but will drop into real first if i just pull it into first.



Are you saying that it revs in second but it's slightly different if you down shift into first??? In other words if you are just revving along in second and down shift there's a change? Or does it just sound the same?

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No there is a kick down as if I were to go from one gear to the other when I manually select that gear. Now if I manually select 2 It will only accellerate like it is in first. You can feel it slipping and If I manually drop a gear to first it kicks hard like a regular downshift.

What I meant by the sensor is that in Drive about 45 mph it will automatically go to 3rd gear but if I floor it in drive it will kick down to 2nd. What I can't understand is why can't I manually use 2nd? It's toasted isn't it?

Dave if you have the lines and there isn't 3 gazzilkion miles on it I am deffintrly considdering. There is a full z22 with a z24 camper truck in Rochester cl for 600 bucks. I'm calling on it in the morning and would switch everything into the b210. That is unless this is something simple. That's about all the details I have on it though

it revs and feels like it's slipping in 2nd

trans fluid came back clean and above full

^too much fluid?

Suddenly happened after regular commuting no logging roads in a long while either. Haven't changed anything recently a few months ago I gave it a splash of wolfs heat ATF but it's driven fine since.

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So the only problem is that :

*if you put the shifter in "2", it goes into 1st

*if you put the shifter in "D" all three gears work as expected


I would call that a minor problem?

I would love that to be the problem. My current only usable gear is first and second feels like it's slipping and a can sometimes get it to jump from first to 3rd took me about a miles worth of high revs to get any results at all. First is good third is good. Can't get into second at all and can't get to 3rd without second. If I could make it constantly in 3rd I would take it too.

Going to ride my Honda ct90 from montesano to oly tommorow. This should be interesting. :|

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Gotcha. The only simple thing to check is to warm it up fully (at least 15 minutes) and check the fluid level while idling. Make sure it's not overfulll or underfull. If that checks out good there are more complicated problems, like the kickdown signal might be off.

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I was looking at my 3N71B tranny diagnosis chart last night under not shifting from 1st to 2nd and it wasn't too much help. Today I tried shifts from 1st directly to 3rd and it came up with oil level as the first most common thing to look at.


Under 'no shock or slipping in change from 1st to 2nd' the first most likely cause is the oil level.




On a similar note there is a "check vacuum hose and piping to intake" as a cause of bad shift or slipping in second. Maybe the hose came off???



The fact that the fluid isn't burnt black is a good sign.

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so i will have to drain some of the fluid or add some? is it possible to drain just a little and i dont think i have the vacuum line. well i have it but when i swapped the trans the first time i have an extra hardline but it didnt effect performance before drove like normal. do you have a picture of what the hose line might look like or where it would plug into?

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Ok fluid correct level still not working. Played around with kick down sensor switch and nothing again. When I went to start the car some electrical gremlin drained the battery. After I jumped it I was able to first gear it around the block. When I stopped the car was steaming from the heater hose line. Ffffffffffuuuuuu. Can it be replaced without tearing into the dash? There are a bunch of bad quirks going on with it. Not a fan

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Few autos have a drain plug, but I think the B210 one does. It's on the convertor, rotate it to see the plug.

Otherwise you can siphon some out using a small hose.

or drop a corner of the pan.

Yea, get the level exactly right.


B210 used electric kickdown instead of traditional kickdown rod

But should still have the vacuum modulator. Without it, it will shift incorrectly every time.



> When I stopped the car was steaming from the heater hose line


If there is a hole in the heater hose, just cut it where the hole is and stick a 50cent 1/2" copper pipe fitting in it with two hose clamps.

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