dspeirn Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 so i shot some tcp global acrylic enamel primer sealer on my car and im not exactly pro at spraying (my first time ever doing it) and i got a few drips. i figured id come back and just sand em off shoot it with a little light coat and then topcoat. looked at the can and it says unsandable. haven't tried sanding it yet figured id ask here first is there anyway to sand it? will it sand and just gum up my sand paper? if i can't sand it what method should i use to get rid of the drips. any ideas or expereince would be nice i dont know crap about painting. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 Why would a company make an un-sandable primer? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 Make sure it is completely dry before sanding. Sand it down with a with an array of sand papers, respray. Well thats at least what I would do. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 It sounds like you shot a product thats usually shot IN the booth that goes on 1st under the base coat to ensure you dont get any primer spots bleeding through. It will cure to a point so maybe give it a few days & try to sand an area with 180 or 220 dry & see how it goes. Your going to want to remove as much of the sealer as possible. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 can you show or tell us what product you used. Quote Link to comment
steve g Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 can you show or tell us what product you used. get some 360 grit wet sanding paper (good stuff like 3m automotive grade, no hardware store shit)pinch it tightly over a paint stick and while using water , block sand the top surfaces of your drips until about 95% of its gone.... then use some 1500 grit on the stick/block wet to finish off the last 5% If your primer is non-sanding sealer then you need to check if you have waited too long and lost your window for re-coat or topcoat... you may have to sand the entire thing down. Quote Link to comment
dspeirn Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/docs/techsheet_ps.pdf heres the link to the techsheet of the product. im gonna give it a try today see how it sanding it works. i called the tech support line of the website and they said it would be ok to wait a few days to topcoat it. if i cant get the drips off i got some coloring ideas for em that will look a little ratty. thanks for all the replies and help guys. Quote Link to comment
kmc63 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 You will be ok.But in the future read the tech sheet first,I went with a high build primer I think most of the guys do. 1 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I shot Epoxy primer/sealer. Of course I didnt start sanding it until 7 months after I painted it. But I just used an RO sander starting at 220 to 400, then did 600 by hand. Do not use the 1500 grit paper. Look up the tech sheet for your paint and see what grit it can be applied to. My PPG Acrylic Urethane didnt want anything above 600 grit because it could start peeling. Quote Link to comment
steve g Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I shot Epoxy primer/sealer. Of course I didnt start sanding it until 7 months after I painted it. But I just used an RO sander starting at 220 to 400, then did 600 by hand. Do not use the 1500 grit paper. Look up the tech sheet for your paint and see what grit it can be applied to. My PPG Acrylic Urethane didnt want anything above 600 grit because it could start peeling. 1500 to finish off the last of the sags/drips.. the last 5% its to remove the deep scratches of the 360... it was not in reference to prepping for paint Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 1500 to finish off the last of the sags/drips.. the last 5% its to remove the deep scratches of the 360... it was not in reference to prepping for paint Oh ok, I just have a feeling the OP would have left it at 1500, which he may have been fine with, but its just better to check. Quote Link to comment
dspeirn Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 You will be ok.But in the future read the tech sheet first,I went with a high build primer I think most of the guys do. yeah definitely should read the tech sheet first. this is the first car i ever built and am learning plenty. some days i feel like the coolest guy in the world, others i feel like im a total idiot . so i tried 320 wet and it sanded but was a total b$#ch so i ended up taking acetone on a lint free rag and rubbing the drips down until they were almost gone. took some 320 wet and hit it, took like 2 pieces of sand paper per drip, then 400 to fare it all in. burned through on some spots but for the most part looks pretty good. im gonna touch it all up with some 600 and then shoot all the spots i burned through. feel like i dodged a bullet on that one. thanks for all the help. will be updating my build thread wit pics soon if anyone wants to take a look. Quote Link to comment
Dirk Diggler Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Non sandable= you dont need to sand before your next coat. it doesnt mean it is impossible to sand, just that you dont need to after you spray it. Quote Link to comment
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