bredatto510 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 thats all i have so far... ahahahah i know i need it... and im ordering it soon.... i need all the advice i can get as far as where to mount and where to tap the nozzle... i have an l20 with mikuni manifold and mikuni 44's... planning on running the water to keep the detonation down and be able to advance my timing back close to stock... has anyone ever done this before and if so... any advise will be greatly appreciated... thanks Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I thought we fixed this? whatever it was. what is stock? since you have a sidedrsft equip car you want close to 14 or so intial advance. do you have the webcam 488/252 also? How does it pull? Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 its super retarted so it wont ping, although it backfires and i have no power... i have flattops on a u67 head with a webcamshafts 510 in lift 266 duration so installing this should allow me to advance it to 14 degrees btdc and get some performance out of her Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 510 in lift 266 WOW might be a bit much. or drop the rear diff ratio then would be a puller Mofo buy soem race gas and time and run it then. just to make sure its a gas proplem. See if it has power ect. then put your local highest octane you can find abd run it. see how much difference then ask what you should do next. Wate injection sounds good but I know nothing on how to hook this up. Hate to drill holes in a manifold and the shit dont work right. be honest i would find another L20 block with stock pisons and bloct your head to it and just instell it in your car. I have pasted up 2 to 3 L20 blocks with flattops so far. ps the mikuni short manifold have a port for the PCV connections. I wonder if you could use those to route water lines too. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 well i ran 110 mixed with 91 and timed it at like 14 degrees and it ran amazing... power everywhere... especially with the 4.11's in the rear... but from what everyone has told me is that with the water injection i can set it back to 14 and have the power without the expensiveness of 110 octane.... i dont know if my manifold has it hes a pic that shows one port where the line goes to the dizzy... but this is before u told me to disconnect my vacuum advance.... now i have it capped off Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 what would be cheapest swap out the flat tops for l18's or swap out the head for a peanut head Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 You might still need the water injection. below is not related just saying 1) make sure that spring set up you have is not too stiff, cause premature wear on carbs.Maybe improve on it as I tink your more like putting a too big of a spring cause you dont have a smooth arch for the cable to flow and release back easily. I assume there is springs on the carbs themselfs too. 2) get rid of that spark plug for a plug and use a bolt. looks bad. fuel pressure gause I would put by the stock filter to help clean up the carbs. or ck pressure then just get rid of it. I cant post photos here but would show you my setup. as for the head situation Best would be peanut head on a stock L20 block. U67 are more prone to detonation . since you have money in the head I would just find another L20 block.if this proplem persisits But you could try the water injection 1st and let us know how it works Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Try running richer mixture to reduce pinging. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 yea im gonna need to find a better location and better spring... as fast as less stiffer it doesnt pull back the throttle and stays revving... so move pressure gauge to where the fuel filter goes... i like my spark plug thank you datzenmike... how would i go on doing this... bigger jets? colder plugs? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 The plugs have to run hot enough to stay clean or you will forever be taking them out to clean and/or having them foul and miss. That said they may be too hot right now, and could go down a heat range. I don't know those side drafts but someone could know. Engines tend to perform best when slightly rich at WOT. Water injection would need to be sprayed into all 4 carb throats to be sure the water is well mixed and is equal in all cylinders. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 ok so i should try a colder range plug see how that works... now for ngk stock plug is bpr6 so colder would be bpr5 or bpr7? i believe i am running a bit rich tho since my plugs have the black gas smelling tips not slightly whte as it if were running in between Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 My yellow car has 44s and its black but it doesnt ping. I think your reaching now by getting different plus. it just isnt going to help. Flatop pistons are Zero cc and stock L20 are 11cc. that just dam alot of spac lost. Its just high compression. I believe Richer will less the detonation. but really I would do anything more in the adj part besides timming. The gas is igniting before the spark plug tells it to so switching to another plug isnt going to do shit in my opinion. I think its the spark plug on the end of the fuel line that is the proplem. You just need to come to the conclusion your motor has to high compression. Seen it on other L motors where people get all excited about putting flattops on L20s think they going to get extra power and all they get is extra proplems. flattops in L16/18s is OK Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 I've already realized.... the only problem is A. i dont have a job hence why i was trying to sell it in the first place... B.. i have no money hence why i am trying to find the cheapest alternative C... i have no other mode of transportation so i cant afford to have the car down to replace pistons and such So i found a water injection kit brand new with everything for 65$ so i figured its worth a shot, when i was working 110 octane was the least of my worries and i had no regrets about the flattops i just want to get the motor by and cause the least amount of damage till i can get another job As far as installing it and getting to distribute the spray into all four cylinders equally is the only part im worried about.. that and since on cars i have seen them on are turbo and they intall the nozzle on the intake piping right after the intercooler so it has a while to vaporize and on a carbed car there is just so little room Quote Link to comment
dimedriver Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 It doesn't really matter if it vaporizes, just as long as it doesn't pool in the intake. The water will vaporize and absorbe heat when the compression stroke begins. It will also adds power water expands much faster than air when it is heated. Have you looked into using the ports used to balance the carbs? What intake is that. I know some have ports on the bottom near the back of the carbs to hook up to those motorcycle style balance gauges. I would put a nozzle on each intake runner. Also if you live in an area where it snows try and get the winter blend of windshield washer fluid. It uses Methanol as the antifreeze and makes for much more fun as your water. -Dime Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 I am having the same problem you are having.... But I have the stock dished pistons over sized... I have it set at 6btd... and it verily pinging at the wot. I bought some bigger jets to see of that would help me run at 91 gas. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 yea i have it really retarted and so far no pinging but no power and it backfires so much... but wouldn't it be nice to be able to install this 65 dollar water injection kit and be able to run 91 at like 12-14 btdc and be fine... one can only dream Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 It doesn't really matter if it vaporizes, just as long as it doesn't pool in the intake. The water will vaporize and absorbe heat when the compression stroke begins. It will also adds power water expands much faster than air when it is heated. Have you looked into using the ports used to balance the carbs? What intake is that. I know some have ports on the bottom near the back of the carbs to hook up to those motorcycle style balance gauges. I would put a nozzle on each intake runner. Also if you live in an area where it snows try and get the winter blend of windshield washer fluid. It uses Methanol as the antifreeze and makes for much more fun as your water. -Dime thanks man... first piece or water injection advice.. i have the mikuni short manifold ill take pics to post up... so best way not to flood it would be to have the smallest nozzle possible and run one line split into four, 1 to each intake runner.. no i dont live where it snows... coldest it gets is probably 50's ill look into the winter blend washer fluid tho... once again thanks.. and ill keep everyone posted Quote Link to comment
garageTuned Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 i know im jumping in late, but washer fluid works very well. i've used it on all of my projects with water injection (turbo & n/a) .. track and street apps. the old way to do it was with a bottle and a marble... vacuum after the throttle plate meant no pumps. the marble would cause an effect like an air pump in a fish tank. Bubbles would form, pop, and the vapors would get sucked through. ive thought about doing something similar with our new 510 project. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 no jumping late at all.. i still need all the advice i can get... as for as where to mount and tap or in ur case where the vacuum is... im taking pics of my manifold as soon as i can and ill be posting them to give u guys some ideas and another thing i think no sure but i believe its illegal to sale windshield washer fluid with methanol in California... people import it .... is this true?? Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 There was a guy in here with a 510 turbo with water injection. He later sold it. I dont know the details much other than that he had to run racing gas on the engine with out it. Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 dang... thanks man... i dont have a problem hooking it up or mounting the pump or any of that i just need some advice as to where would be the best place to tap the nozzle or nozzles like dime driver said Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/21456-510-streettrack-car-build/page__p__302165__fromsearch__1#entry302165 Yo0 should ask him and get all the details you can. He later took off the turbo and made it NA. I guess he could not make it run right... Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 k i sent him a message thanks man really appreciate it Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 a little off topic but i believe my idle speed screws are in too much...they are at least half way in... and i havent moved the idle mixture screws since i got them from rebello...does anyone know off the top of their head where they are supposed to be.. i do believe its let them warm up and idle then unscrew them all the way and the screw in so many turns... how ever its really hard to get it to idle nice... im guessing it has to do with the big cam and the fact that they are not synchronized... any help so i can go mess with these beasts and try it to stay on Quote Link to comment
bredatto510 Posted January 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 update on the carbs idling issue... i put my man pants on and deciding to mess with the mixture screws... i closed it one and pulled out 2 turns and it idles!!! omg its a miracle lol.... they were all set differently from what i saw Quote Link to comment
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