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My general question thread


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Thought I'd start a questions thread for myself since I keep posting in the status updates, which may bug you guys, and I don't want to do that. So, here we go!

 

1. Latest problem is I've got oil in my air cleaner from my pcv breather hose. Any ideas on how to stop this?

DSCN0049.jpg

 

2. Is there a cheapish muffler out there that'll make my exhaust sound deeper, instead of it sounding like a ricer car?

3. My EAIV (Exhaust Air Induction Valve) looks like its leaking a bit. Is it supposed to do that? In the pic, I just changed that filter 10 miles ago, and it already had soot on it from the EAIV

DSCN0050.jpg

 

I've got more questions, but can think of them right now dry.gif

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Guest DatsuNoob

You could always switch to a weber carb and run your PCV tube to an oil catch can if you're really trying to keep it out of your air cleaner. Then you could monitor how much oil you're losing each time you tap the can at whatever mile interval you decide. I dont think it's anything major though from the looks of it in the picture. A little is normal, it is afterall Positive Crankcase Ventilation :)

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Check that the PCV valve is sucking air when running. Check that the hose from the PCV to the back of the head and around to the block vent pipe isn't split. If the PCV isn't working or the hose off or split there won't be enough vacuum to prevent the oil spray going out the valve cover to the air filter.

 

 

Hard acceleration or worn rings can produce enough blow by that it overpowers the PCV valve. The only way out is through the vent on the valve cover. Often there is an oil mist under there and the air going out carries it along the pipe to the air filter. Usually the hose is vented inside the air filter so everything goes down the carb and does not get the filter dirty.

 

 

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The EAV is just a tube or tubes from the exhaust manifold. Behind each exhaust pulse is a small vacuum pulse. At the air filter is a one way valve that allows air out only and this air is sucked into the exhaust to help burn emission in the catalytic converter. A simple system requiring no mechanical air pump. If there is some exhaust 'soot' then maybe the one way valve needs cleaning/replacing.

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If they are loose it will. So will replacing the idler arm, upper and lower control arm ball joints. (if worn) Improperly tightened wheel bearings can add steering slop. There is also an adjustment on the steering box for play but this must be done most carefully.

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4. If I replace my worn out ball joints, will it tighten up my steering , even a little bit?

 

 

If they are loose it will. So will replacing the idler arm, upper and lower control arm ball joints. (if worn) Improperly tightened wheel bearings can add steering slop. There is also an adjustment on the steering box for play but this must be done most carefully.

 

 

Made one hell of a difference on my 720, if you are going to do one, do them all then go get an alinement

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There is also an adjustment on the steering box for play but this must be done most carefully.

 

On my 210 I had to make almost 3 full turns in on the adjuster because the steering wheel had about 3" of slop and was near impossible on the highway.

 

This is how we check the steering system on our race cars with a steering box:

put car up on jackstands, have a second person turn the wheel back and forth about 180 degrees across the center of the travel. use your hands and hold a tire to try to stop the movement of the wheel and when the steering wheel is turned, you should be able to see what tie rod end is worn or if the box has the play in it.

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