new paint help

[Just Joel]

A while back, I repainted the engine compartment of my 510 wagon and I'm having a little trouble with the finished product. It all looks pretty good with exception of the area behind the passenger strut tower where I developed some areas that feel like sand paper (very fine sand paper) from what I assume was dry paint in the air settling while I was painting. What I'm hoping is that there is a simple fix to polishing out these areas to a shine similar to the rest of the engine compartment. Is there a special procedure that I could follow? Sorry for a lame question but I'm extremely new to car paint.

 

Thank

Joel

[jefe de jefes]

Watersand the area with some real fine sand paper?

Maybe try hitting the area with a polishing compound. See if that'll knock it down.

[lil89ram50]

clay bar it

[Just Joel]

clay bar it

 

I hadn't thought of this... I'll give it a try.

 

Thanks

JOel

[Just Joel]

Watersand the area with some real fine sand paper?

Maybe try hitting the area with a polishing compound. See if that'll knock it down.

 

Wet sanding sounds awesome (and was what I initially thought I would have to do) but I have no idea where to begin with that one... If I wet sand, what will I have to do to polish it? What grit do I use? After sanding, can I just use a polishing compound and hand polish it back to a shine? I can't see getting a mechanical tool back in that tight little spot. If I can in fact polish it by hand, I wouldn't mind fixing a couple runs and some orange peel at the same time. Would a pro mind filling in the blanks for me? I'm not afraid of a little elbow grease to get it done.

 

Thanks

Joel

[metalmonkey47]

Start with 2000 grit sandpaper. Sand till fairly smooth. Follow up with rubbing cmpound, then polishing compound.

[Just Joel]

Start with 2000 grit sandpaper. Sand till fairly smooth. Follow up with rubbing cmpound, then polishing compound.

 

And the polishing can be done by hand and still yield decent results?

 

Thanks

Joel

[metalmonkey47]

And the polishing can be done by hand and still yield decent results?

 

Thanks

Joel

 

Yup! I did a little testing on my car when I painted the fender. Used the steps above to cut down some annoying orange peel.

 

Before and after...

 

 

[Just Joel]

Nice! What kind of buffing and polishing compound are you using? I have Turtle product now in both... is that good enough to do the job?

 

Thanks

Joel

[metalmonkey47]

Turtle would do good. I used turtle wax rubbing compound and Meguires polishing compound, but the Turtle Wax stuff is good.

[Just Joel]

Nice... thanks for the help.

 

Later

Joel

[lil89ram50]

is it orange peeled, or is it just gritty feeling like over spray? im really not trying to say these guys are wrong about wet sanding it, but clay bar might just do the job, and would be really fast compared to a wet sand abd buff. and if it doesnt work, your only out a few bux, and you have it for the next time if you ever need to do a detail on a vehicle. if its just over spray or dirty, a clay bar SHOULD remove most of ther gritty feeling, then you can just wax it. or buff it if you want a high shine looking bay. just trying to be helpful and let you try some easy options.

[Just Joel]

is it orange peeled, or is it just gritty feeling like over spray? im really not trying to say these guys are wrong about wet sanding it, but clay bar might just do the job, and would be really fast compared to a wet sand abd buff. and if it doesnt work, your only out a few bux, and you have it for the next time if you ever need to do a detail on a vehicle. if its just over spray or dirty, a clay bar SHOULD remove most of ther gritty feeling, then you can just wax it. or buff it if you want a high shine looking bay. just trying to be helpful and let you try some easy options.

 

The one spot in question is a lot like over spray but there is a good deal of orange peel that I wouldn't mind fixing given the opportunity. I'll try the clay bar first and if it doesn't work, I'll go to sanding.

 

Thanks

Joel

[Just Joel]

For wet sanding, should I use soapy water or just straight water?

 

Thanks

Joel

[I'm BLUE]

wont soapy water contaminate and leave a film ?

[Just Joel]

wont soapy water contaminate and leave a film ?

 

Hell, I don't know... probably, but I figure if I'm buffing it after sanding I don't have to worry about contamination. Kinda like waxing the car right after washing it? :blink:

 

Later

Joel

[I'm BLUE]

hmmmmmmmmm I don't know either ,,, but I am paranoid bass-turd ,,, I do know I wouldn't want any chance of the film :unsure: ---> yet again I am very amateur in this area , so IDK for sure ?

 

Later,

DTP

[Just Joel]

Later

DTP

 

:D

[I'm BLUE]

:D

 

;)

[Braden]

for wet sanding use 2000 grit or higher, use water obviously and nothign else, rinse the area with water occasionly the water is just used to keep the paper from loading up, finish up by washing the area with some good car wash then polishing with a 3 step process sometimes 4! 1.medium cut compound, 2. fine cut compound, 3.macine polish/swirl remover. 4. ultra fine machine polish, then a good coat of carnuba wax. i use 3m mostly their imperial line in the purple bottles, its 55 bucks a quart or 25 for half a quart. it works damn good. for buffing with a buffer the imperial and most other polishes have their own pad. normall the med to heavy cut compound is used with a woll pad then the polishing is used with foam pads.

[Just Joel]

for wet sanding use 2000 grit or higher, use water obviously and nothign else, rinse the area with water occasionly the water is just used to keep the paper from loading up, finish up by washing the area with some good car wash then polishing with a 3 step process sometimes 4! 1.medium cut compound, 2. fine cut compound, 3.macine polish/swirl remover. 4. ultra fine machine polish, then a good coat of carnuba wax. i use 3m mostly their imperial line in the purple bottles, its 55 bucks a quart or 25 for half a quart. it works damn good. for buffing with a buffer the imperial and most other polishes have their own pad. normall the med to heavy cut compound is used with a woll pad then the polishing is used with foam pads.

 

Good info! But now I'm worried :huh: It sounds like I won't be able to get this thing shinny with just hand polishing? I can’t see getting a buffer into the small areas of the engine compartment, not to mention I don't own one either :P So should I just cut my losses and figure on doing what I can with the buffing compound and a clay bar or is this the only way to get a decent finish after screwing up the initial spay?

 

Thanks

Joel

[lil89ram50]

you should be able to buff it by hand good enough for an engine bay, as there are a lot of shadows there, it wont be as noticable. remember buffing is not alwys about the pressure applied. go slow, dont press hard, and watch what your doing. when you think it has a good shine, then clean it off, and wax it. for this application, i would jusy go get a loe or medium grade buffing compuond, nd a few pads, and a banana wax. braden gave you some great info also! he sounds like ho knows his shit pretty well. haha well i also do as i do this on a daily basis. glad to see there are some other detailers here to give a hand :) but for an engine bay, i think this would be fine in thight spots, on the outside body panels, i suggest doiung what brades said, couldnt have said it any better :) at work we use all moc chemicals,and are very good :) but i dont think you can get them. other wise, 3m, and the meguires works pretty good for the average joe.

[lil89ram50]

you try any ideas?