Docsis510 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Im having trouble adjusting my clutch pedal. The pedal has to be all the way pushed to the groung in order for the gears to go in and sometimes they dont want to go in. I purged the line already like 3 times. Im no sure what alse to do. Its a L20 with a 4 speed. I checked where the pedal meets the slave cylinder and the screw is almost all the way out. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Are your slave and master cylinders working? It sounds like not if you've bled the line and the clutch isn't functioning correctly. Quote Link to comment
paradoxx Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 it doesnt has to be all the way out, you have to leave at least half an inch from the end of the special nut to the tip of the screw. let me check how I have it so you can figure out easily. Quote Link to comment
qwik510 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 see if this helps: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/22972-clutch-slave-adjustment/ Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Im having trouble adjusting my clutch pedal. The pedal has to be all the way pushed to the groung in order for the gears to go in and sometimes they dont want to go in. I purged the line already like 3 times. Im no sure what alse to do. Its a L20 with a 4 speed. I checked where the pedal meets the slave cylinder and the screw is almost all the way out. If this was working fine before and suddenly changed just ignore the following: If you have just assembled or changed any of the clutch components your lack of proper peddle height during engagement may be caused by a missmatched release bearing collar or housing. If too short, the peddle will have to travel further down to disengage the clutch. Quote Link to comment
Docsis510 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 mmm could it be that when i put the tranny back i didnt install a spacer that went between the block and the flywheel. the bolts were to small and barely grabbed any thread with the spacer. could that be the problem?? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 You mean this spacer?? Mmmmm, no. Without the spacer the transmission and the clutch arm and release bearing would be closer to the flywheel and the peddle travel shorter, but how much I don't know, not very much is my guess. You should have the spacer on as it keeps crap out of the clutch/bell housing area. . Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 Have you just installed this L20B motor in your 510??? What is this L20B out of a car or truck??? Quote Link to comment
Docsis510 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 the 510 had the l20b on it when i bought it. the spacer is in the pic below. if you look close the holes got big from the bolts being loose. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 Wow. That's only used with the automatic flex plate. I don't think the standard flywheel will even go on with that on the end of the crank. That spacer definitely should NOT be on when using a clutch and flywheel. Do you know what size diameter the pressure plate is? Have you changed the clutch. Tell me everything you have done to the motor/transmission recently. Was it working before? Quote Link to comment
Docsis510 Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 when I bought the car the starter would turn but the motor wouldnt. So when I took the starter out I noticed pieces of metal. I thought the teeth from the flywheel were worn. So I decided to take the tranny out. When I pulled the tranny out everything fell out fly wheel the spacer and clutch. The holes from the block were worn and stripped. Also the crews were stripped. I retapped the holes and rethreaded the bolts and threw everything back on. I didnt messure the flywheel or pressure plate. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 20, 2010 Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 A pox on previous owners!!!! Looks like someone didn't know what they were doing and screwed it up and sold it to you. (to fix) OK the motor is a known but the flywheel isn't. There's a few things to remember: 1/ There are three different pressure plate/clutch disc sizes, 200mm, 225mm and 240mm that could fit the L20B motor. The pressure plate size is totally dependent on the flywheel bolt pattern. In other words a 200mm PP will not bolt to a 225mm flywheel bolt pattern. 2/ The pressure plate (PP) and the release bearing holder (or housing, or sleeve) are matched for size. A housing for a 200mm clutch will not work with a 225mm clutch. Here are some housings. The bearings are all the same but the part that holds it (the housing) come in different lengths. The stock 510 uses a 200mm clutch and so it likely has a 200mm release bearing housing on the clutch arm. The L20B from a car would have an 200mm clutch but if from a truck it would have a 225mm clutch. So a 200mm bearing housing used with a 225mm clutch will be the wrong size and the peddle will have to travel further to operate it. I should guess this may have a 225mm clutch on it when it was swapped into the 510 and this is your problem. Have someone depress the peddle several times and look at the slave push rod. Is it moving a good amount of travel??? If only a very small amount??? Then it may still have air in the system or the master is faulty. If on the other hand things look good the tranny will have to come off and the clutch diameter measured. Quote Link to comment
Loren Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 i had a similar problem with the L20b and truck tranny in my Goon. I tried 3 different clutch slaves and still no amount of adjusting either direction at the pedal made any difference. it ended up being a faulty clutch master cylinder, I had replaced it due to the original one leaking onto the drivers floorboard. I returned it for warranty,got a different one,installed it,bled the system,& sure enough everything worked(for awhile,anyway) the truck tranny was always really noisy (whining and scraping noises), had "sticky" shift selection,& eventually quit shifting altogether. also, at what I call freeway speeds (55 - 85 mph) the engine was turning at 3500 - 4500 rpm. I just installed a used Z car 5 speed,and aside from the throwout bearing groaning on and off when the clutch pedal is pressed ,it's a huge improvement. this was my first tranny swap,&when i installed the clutch fork and throwout bearing, I didn't know to use a little grease. now I have to at least partially remove the tranny & apply the grease,then reinstall it. anyway,good luck with yours, I hope some of this helps somehow. Quote Link to comment
frisco510 Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 lore what mods did you have to do to get the z tranny in your goon? planing to do that swap to my 72 goon my dog leg tranny is going bad on me :( any tip to make it go smother?? thanks Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 23, 2010 Report Share Posted November 23, 2010 Loren the release bearing should always be replaced with a tranny change or any time they are out ($20) and they come dry so you have to grease them. Aslo a smear of lithum grease on the transmission spline, pivot ball, slave push rod contact areas and the fork tips. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.