Some one poured water on gizmo, now i need help with my gremlin...

[Cuts metal like mad]

At this point I still bel;ieve its a fuel problem, but not likely thats its running out, more likely FOULING. Check plugs directly after it dies next time. They will probably be as wet as a fat dude running a marathon.

[jrock4224]

So thried to replicate my rpoblem over and opver again now it wont stall out.. so just did some preventinitve stuff till it will stall out...new fuel filter..check made sure fuel lines aree all clear of debris...fuel pump works good...checked tank for anything visual...checked gas cap...starting tio think that since i pulled coil wire to check spark and now it wont do it that maybe my coil wire had worked loose on either cap side or coil... happened on my mazdda a couple of times...pulled coil wire and checked ends... made sure ends are in contact with everything....just gonna keep hope that when it does this again i am close...to home..

[banzai510(hainz)]

carry extra set of spark plugs with wrench

buy a NGK wire set NE 64

 

find a weber to swap in.

[jrock4224]

arrrgggghhhhh has onyone seen the key to my datsun.....i cant diagnose my runability problem with no key....damn i knoew this would happen if i left it as a individual key....ooopss...i guess i should look for ignition keys and a set of door locks since nothing in my truck matches....still running .. man i am baffled. i jumpered it and it ran 20 minutes straight on two seperate occasions tonight...its just beggin me to drive it and get five miles away before it teaches me a lesson

[jrock4224]

so little update... gone through most everything cant get it to replicate the problem now...swapped to new ignition... found my key the next day(typical)went through all the under hood wiring .. its all checked out... pulled plugs made sure gap was ok.. still good...plreppign that other 32/36 i have to put on it this weekend... drove it burned almost a tank of gas letting it run and driving short trips...nothing not a hint of the issue.. more and more i think it ewas the coil wire.. wthe tappered top to coil has poushed a cheap plug wire off before...on two other occasions...that combined with the interior connection being compressed too many times...i opened the connection back up to ensure good conection to coil...swapped to a better coil wire too.. i think that was the culprit....i dunno really.. will report back after the other carb gets on there and i check the rest of the plug ires or just swap to a nicer set...

[jrock4224]

so after all that i think its main problem is a fuel problem... yesterday on the ewway ot work.. back fired on downshift and blew the side of my muffler right out...sounds all gnarley...i think its a combo of the poitns and the fuel probelm.. i think i never noticed the fuel problem being so bad till the points got tired...runnning rough at mid throttle... loading up from excess fuel..waiting to hear back from wildmini and a dizzy and the carb is still sitting on my work bench...son as my honey dos dry up i will be swappiung it on there .. this weekend is holiday busy...is there anyone out there that rebuilds redline webers and is good at it...i owuld be inclined to having it rebuilt before i use it on my mazda again or i am just gonna junkyard fuel inject it

[jrock4224]

ps my wife is right i got to many projects its hard to stay on top of all of it...

[banzai510(hainz)]

another weber or a new one and a EI ignition will solve most proplems.

[wildmaninid]

Webers usually need more of a take it apart and clean it than a rebuild, in my experience anyways. And most likely you will need a smaller main idle jet. Just clean off a spot on the bench, line it with some nice paper towels and get the screwdriver set out and go for it. Lay everything out and take cell phone pics if you need to for reference. A can or 2 of carby cleaner and I bet she will be back in running order. FInd out what idle jet youhave in it and let me know. BTW I am a no go on any more EI dizzys for the moment. I had 2 left and i sold one, the other one I was testing this weekend and I think the module MIGHT be going bad, but it may have bad bushings, so it is taken apart and i am going to mic the shaft and body and may have to turn out a set of bushings for it.

 

I will keep you posted on that front.

 

Bill

[jrock4224]

Webers usually need more of a take it apart and clean it than a rebuild, in my experience anyways. And most likely you will need a smaller main idle jet. Just clean off a spot on the bench, line it with some nice paper towels and get the screwdriver set out and go for it. Lay everything out and take cell phone pics if you need to for reference. A can or 2 of carby cleaner and I bet she will be back in running order. FInd out what idle jet youhave in it and let me know. BTW I am a no go on any more EI dizzys for the moment. I had 2 left and i sold one, the other one I was testing this weekend and I think the module MIGHT be going bad, but it may have bad bushings, so it is taken apart and i am going to mic the shaft and body and may have to turn out a set of bushings for it.

 

I will keep you posted on that front.

 

Bill

 

 

wild bill of bornio....put me down for two of those elctronic dizzys.. no real rush...we are swapping mine to l20b 5sp.. and my buddies just got a l20/5sp from kamakzi 620 that we are putting in his too...mine will proibably go in first ...but not ime soon sometime this winter ...his is still in the middle of a disc brake conversion and some other stuff...but we both are gonna switch to electronic dizzys..so keep an eye out for a couple that are nice and refurbish them and i will reward you handsomely...just keep me in the loop...at this point i am gonna swap the webers i have and see if that fix's most of it...and dial in the dist i have again points are cheap and i can fuck it up a few times before i get it right...but for sure we want a couple of those electronic dizzys ....and that weber has a float issue i think... i am so tired of it... i might swap then blow mine apart on the work bench and see if i see anything noticeable...thanks fo r the heads up oin the diizzys though i will check back periodically with you

[jrock4224]

Update.....threw on the the carb I got with the l20.....runs good..better than that mazda weber...so when i pulled the old carb off the intake had standing fuel in the plenum...and if i jiggled the weber i took off fuel would run out... and maybe its just me but it was like a pee stream... thats seems like alot of fuel for a l16.. pretty sure that carb is going to have to come apart...ok on to the new carb.. runs good....but when i threw it on there it made me nervous...not about my l16 about the l20 I bought the idle was turned up to about 1500 rpm... seems wierd to be that high for a l20... anyway once I turned the idle down it purred...still a little anomally though... ever now and again it will drop off idle and you got to feather it to keep it running not for more than 15 seconds though...then once you get revved up alittle bit it is fine...gotta figure out a new way to attach throttle cable to carb... my old had a cam lock style this carb has the ball end mount on the linkage like a bicycle cable or maybe how it was origianlly...had no end on it to begin with...so the next thing is ... pretty sure its a 32/36 but the way i have it oriented on the truck seems correct...throttle linkage attach on backside towards firewall... pulling towards drivers side.. electric choke is on the valve cover side....fuel inlet in front... but the way its on the intake the mixture screw is at the base of the carb shooting back towards the passenger side of the truck and the idle adjust is facing the vavle cover making getting a screw driver on it next to impossible...(used a ahobby screw driver) I was gonna take a pic of it to post but it was 10 pm and raining when I did this...any ideas on the make of the carb i know its a weber it says it...like i said it runs better... starts right up choke works.. idle was super high...but oh well...let me know what you think or any suggestions onn the carb.. thank you

[Cuts metal like mad]

So it sounds like the OLD weber was flooding, check the float height.

 

The NEW weber sounds like a standard 32/36 DGEV, if you other weber was opposite of this one, it was a reversed base design. There should be a flat spot around the base that has the model stamped on it. Make sure you have a throttle return spring. You can swap out the throttle wheel, don't overtighten it.

 

Check the float height on this one too, sounds like it MIGHT be running out of fuel and when you rev it up the fuel pump is refilling it. Or if you dont have a return spring, then it might be that the carb is closing sometimes causing the idle to drop too low, and revving it is making the throttle get stuck slightly open again, which would also explain why it was idling at 1500 when you first bolted it on.

[jrock4224]

so yeah its doing that wierd idle drop thing with out any throttle input...its wierd its associated with time... iit idles at 900-1000rp,m then out of nowhere it will drop to 500 and stay running most times but will stall out now and again...its acts like if you were to cut the ignition and turn it back on...some times it will do it twice back to back sometimes just once...i took a video of it from cold start to warm running and showing issue.. but half way through my video, the batt went dead on my flip video cam corder and i didnt notice till i shut the truck off and was done with video.. I will try again .. maybe hearing for yourself will help you to understand better ...and yes its a 32/36 compared it to phixius 's 32/36 he has on his.. same but mine is electric choke...i will check the stamping...runs good just this wierd stumble almost...oh i wish i had a elec dizzy to try and see if thats it..the idle was clearly the adjustment screw it was locked all the way down holding it like that.. lossened it up and its fine...the only difference on my carb from phixius's is i have to vacum ports on the base of the carb any idea what the second one is for ...

[banzai510(hainz)]

adjust the mixture. that will be at the base with the tension spring

adjust timming on distributor

also maybe ck the idle jet to be sure its fully clear.

ck for tightness on the base of car.

 

drive the shit out of it!

do do it all over again.

 

find a stock Hitachi 521 carb and use the rear linkae and put on the back of the weber DGV. they fit like it was stock on weber

 

also if you overtighten the nut on back of the carb that holds the linkage it might have a binding proplem on the throttle plate.

[jrock4224]

alll right so been super busy lately...the datsun is fixed.... ignition swithch was the culprit....so i was rd ing some stuff trying to source my rpoblem... in advertantly caught my harness on fire when the choke wire fell on the exhaust and melted it all the way tot he fuse panel...ooopss....so after i fixed the harness i was messing withthe cab side of the harness and noticed when i was starting it and running it i was having intermitinent issues with ignition... eventually it staterd requiring me to hold the key at almost starter engage to keep it running... threw in another igntion switch and bingo no mor e runnability issues so far... now the choke on the new old carb is having a issue setting on intial startup...works good if i can get it engaged..takes a bit to get it to work... might pull carb back off and pull choke off and clean it... it appears t work okl just wont engaged regualarly... the wire fire didnt affect it...just trying to get it locked down and consistent...been so busy a work just t rying to keep it all in perspective...thanks for all the great help on here though i will keep it updated..

[jrock4224]

alll right so been super busy lately...the datsun is fixed.... ignition swithch was the culprit....so i was rd ing some stuff trying to source my rpoblem... in advertantly caught my harness on fire when the choke wire fell on the exhaust and melted it all the way tot he fuse panel...ooopss....so after i fixed the harness i was messing withthe cab side of the harness and noticed when i was starting it and running it i was having intermitinent issues with ignition... eventually it staterd requiring me to hold the key at almost starter engage to keep it running... threw in another igntion switch and bingo no mor e runnability issues so far... now the choke on the new old carb is having a issue setting on intial startup...works good if i can get it engaged..takes a bit to get it to work... might pull carb back off and pull choke off and clean it... it appears t work okl just wont engaged regualarly... the wire fire didnt affect it...just trying to get it locked down and consistent...been so busy a work just t rying to keep it all in perspective...thanks for all the great help on here though i will keep it updated..

 

 

so is there any info anybody has to share on setting the idle up on my choke.....it's a weber 32/36 dgev...my truck is not idling up on the choke circuit...