need help with timing!!

[510kevin]

cant figure out the timing on my 510. has an l20 with points. cant figure out where to set the timing to get the car to stay running.

the distributor is out as of now. if anyone can help me with this, there will be free beer!!!!

 

im damn close to have my car running, unfortunately i suck at setting up the distributor and getting the timing close. any tips/tricks/help would be greatly appreciated

[bredatto510]

set piston # 1 on top dead center...with the distributor and rotor on... whatever way the rotor is pointing that is plug one then put the rest on following the firing order... once it turns on and warms up without the vacuum advance connected set it to 12 degrees below top dead center and u should be set

[datzenmike]

Be sure you are on the compression stroke and not 180 out. To check remove the oil cap on the valve cover and look at the cam lobes on #1, as long as they are pointing upwards, exhaust at 2 and intake at 10 o'clock you're good. Look down beside the alternator side on the rear most pulley for a small notch. Turn clockwise until to is at the 0 (zero) mark on the timing scale just behind the pulley. Then as bredatto510 says.

 

If you have the stock Hitachi carb you don't need to remove the vacuum advance hose as there is no vacuum advance at idle. The vacuum advance port is above the throttle plate and is only active when the throttle is opened.

[510kevin]

sounds simple enough, ill give it a try!!

[banzai510(hainz)]

ck using the center coil wire. place near ground and it should spark. If not points need to be cked.

 

Ps use the stock coil and ballast resisitor. with a point distributor.

EZ fix

 

go to olddatsuns.com for tech advise also

[510kevin]

ok, im at my whits end :angry:

 

got spark from coil, but no spark from dizzy cap. points seem correct and spark when turned over.

 

 

anyone willing to give me a hand??????

[datzenmike]

Rotor installed?

 

Dizzy is installed with rotor pointing between cap terminals when coil fires.

[510kevin]

Rotor installed?

 

Dizzy is installed with rotor pointing between cap terminals when coil fires.

 

 

yeah the rotor is installed.its frustrating as hell because i have spark everywhere but the plugs. and when i stick my testlight down in the cap and turn it over, i get nothing

[datzenmike]

Pull the coil wire off of the dizzy cap and put an old spark plug in the end, ground against the valve cover and crank over.

 

If no spark the wire is no good or no spark at coil.

 

If there is spark:

Dizzy is installed with rotor pointing between cap terminals when coil fires.

[510kevin]

Pull the coil wire off of the dizzy cap and put an old spark plug in the end, ground against the valve cover and crank over.

 

If no spark the wire is no good or no spark at coil.

 

If there is spark:

 

 

 

well, it was firing between the points of the cap!

 

i messed with it a little, and all i can get it to do is cough and sputter.

my distributor is turned all the way against the thermostat housing and it will almost run. its like i need another inch to turn. any ideas???

[datzenmike]

Set to TDC compression. Remove the dizzy. Unbolt the oil pump and drop it down with the drive spindle. Turn the spindle about 1/8th turn (counter-clockwise ) and re install with finger tight oil pump bolts in case you have to make a further adjustment. Install the dizzy and turn the rotor until the dizzy seats down. The rotor will now (or should) be rotated slightly counter clockwise from before. Check that the rotor is now below any one of the cap wires when you twist the dizzy left and right . If it isnt, drop the pump and rotate the spindle another 1/8 turn. When installed the rotor should be below any of the cap terminals. If it is, that cap terminal now becomes plug wire number one, so find number one wire and move it to this location and re position all the others. The firing order is 1342 and goes around the cap in a counter clockwise direction.

 

You have now repositioned the spindle with the rotor on top to a new position hopefully within timing range without twisting the dizzy all the way to the thermostat housing.

 

Be sure to tighten the oil pump bolts before starting the engine!!!

[510kevin]

total noob here, which 2 bolts do i pull to drop the oil pump? all i see are the 2 through the timing cover.....i dont have to pull the pan do i?

[datzenmike]

You don't have to touch the oil pan.

 

The oil pump is down at the bottom end of the distributor on the passenger side of the motor:

 

 

Four (4) bolts two long and two short hold it on. There is a drive spindle between it and the distributor above it. The spindle is driven off the crankshaft gear. Save the thin paper gasket between the oil pump and the timing cover.

 

The oil pump/distributor drive spindle looks like this.

 

 

The bottom drives the oil pump. The spindle will likely fall out with the pump so leave it in the pump and turn and lift up into place together and snug up the bolts. The top is keyed so that the distributor will only fit in one position. If you turn the spindle and install, the distributor will have to turn in order to mount. Hopefully it will be far enough away from the thermostat housing to adjust the timing.

 

 

 

.

[510kevin]

thanks a bunch mike, i did this, re-installed the distributor, tightened everything up and bam! i have a running 510!!!

your the best!!! :)

[datzenmike]

Good on you!

[510kevin]

back to square one :angry:

went to go load my car onto trailer to get exhaust put on, car will not start again. checked plugs and points, correct gap.

car has fuel, spark from the coil, vac. advance is hooked up.

 

 

pulled valve cover to check for tdc, #1 piston was up, #1 cam lobes at 10 and 2 o clock. timing marks at "0"

rotor at #1 plug, went 1,3,4,2 counterclockwise.

 

all i can do is get it to fart and bang, wont completely fire. i've fouled the plugs 5 or 6 times already.

 

and now im not getting spark from the brand new coil

 

 

i need some friggin help, i dont understand......

[banzai510(hainz)]

you say you have spark on top paragraph then now say you have new coil no spark.

 

Im confused.

 

Blk wht wire is 12volt with key ONBlk/blu is 12volt with key in starts. If it was running good after the timming ck then its good. Look for electrical wireing or points not opening. point wire inside or condensor wire .

 

PS if running a point distributor make sure to use a point coildesigned for that car with a ballast resisitor

 

I dont know where woodland washington is But Ray Stonhocker can get it running for you. 425 931 3121 Bothel area.If # is still good

 

this is a simple fix.or sell car to me for 500$ Or spend some money and get a electronic Conversion or a Matchbox dizzy. Best and most importand upgrade on a Point type vehicle. Best money spent.

[510kevin]

you say you have spark on top paragraph then now say you have new coil no spark.

 

Im confused.

 

Blk wht wire is 12volt with key ONBlk/blu is 12volt with key in starts. If it was running good after the timming ck then its good. Look for electrical wireing or points not opening. point wire inside or condensor wire .

 

PS if running a point distributor make sure to use a point coildesigned for that car with a ballast resisitor

 

I dont know where woodland washington is But Ray Stonhocker can get it running for you. 425 931 3121 Bothel area.If # is still good

 

this is a simple fix.or sell car to me for 500$ Or spend some money and get a electronic Conversion or a Matchbox dizzy. Best and most importand upgrade on a Point type vehicle. Best money spent.

 

 

 

well, i screwed up and bought a coil with internal resistor. maybe that gave me the weak/no spark. im gonna get new points and condenser tomorrow. i have the timing dead on, but i think im getting very little if any spark because of the double-resistor action.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Persoanlly the old coil is probaply good.

 

I dont see coils going bad . People like changing them but I never seen one good bad myself.

PUT THE OLD ONE BACK IN!!!!. its FREE.I bet the points are not opeing cause you didnt tightn the screw down.

 

 

to ck the coil put ignition to ON. so there is power the coil. now take the minus side wire. ground it thern let go. a couple times. While doing this take the coil sparkplug wire and place it about 1/8 inch from the chassis. you should get spark. the coil will charge up when you have the neg side then when you take off from ground the coil will discharge to to ground.stock coil is about 1.6 ohms

[510kevin]

so, i put the old coil in, and replaced the points and condenser andit fired right up.

 

i was so frustrated i overlooked the obvious. thanks for the help datzenmike and banzai.

 

timing is set at 12degrees and it runs like a champ!!!!!! :D

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you have a single point early L16 or SSS distributor you can change to a Pertronix conversion. So ytou dont have to fuck with points again. You use the old coil and ballst.

 

If you have a L20b single point it can be made to use the Pertronix kit but needs machining.

I suggest you love your car get a Pertronix or a matchbox dizzy.

 

PS make your you get the whole thing with the pedastal.

 

I havent changed a cap and rotor in over 5 years. On any of my datsun. I run Pertronix

[510kevin]

If you have a single point early L16 or SSS distributor you can change to a Pertronix conversion. So ytou dont have to fuck with points again. You use the old coil and ballst.

 

If you have a L20b single point it can be made to use the Pertronix kit but needs machining.

I suggest you love your car get a Pertronix or a matchbox dizzy.

 

PS make your you get the whole thing with the pedastal.

 

I havent changed a cap and rotor in over 5 years. On any of my datsun. I run Pertronix

 

 

i have an l20 with single points. ive been looking for a matchbox, but cant find one yet. im used to adjusting points on the side of the road, ive had to do it a few times. so ill pick up a new dizzy when the price is right