Auto choke wire?

[LenRobertson]

I'm continuing to think I may have a running 510, after almost 3 years of it being dead. Trying to get a lot of the little details cleaned up, one being hooking up the auto choke (yes, a Weber or SUs is coming in the future, but it's a Hitachi 340 for now). There is a 10" dark blue wire coming from the spade connector on the auto choke body, with a male bullet connector on the end. And it plugs in where? The likely suspect is a female bullet connector coming out of the harness on the upper firewall (medium blue, fairly heavy gauge wire); same harness the wiper motor wires are in. But I have no power at this connector with my test light, with key in On position, or with engine running. If this is the correct wire for the choke, what fuse does it come through?

 

I looked in both Haynes and Chilton, and neither seems to show an auto choke on their wiring diagrams, or they have a weird name for it. The 510 is a '72 that was an automatic, but now is a 5-speed!

 

Len

[I'm BLUE]

If you need to run it , temp fix is a fuse connected in-line from the "+" of the ignition coil ( if you have one :lol: ) , I did this on my 240z for a bit .............. worked just fine and no problems ;)

[LenRobertson]

If you need to run it , temp fix is a fuse connected in-line from the "+" of the ignition coil ( if you have one :lol: ) , I did this on my 240z for a bit .............. worked just fine and no problems ;)

 

Thanks for the idea. I'm so excited to get the car going, I'll take any shortcut. I think tomorrow some haywire is going to be introduced to the dangling exhaust pipe. Today, I filled the float bowl and ran it dry several times, enough to tell I have some tweaking to do on the carb &/or timing. Need to rig a temp fuel bottle as my gas tank is still out. My coil is fresh from Pull n Save yesterday. It's a fat EI type, replacing the smaller dia points coil that was running the 1600 ignition.

 

Len

[ggzilla]

You don't need a fuse. Just connect it to the coil resistor (ballast resistor) + side. That circuit is already protected by a fuse. Or if you have the EI coil and have no ballast resistor, connect Fuse wire to Coil +.

 

The factory wiring has it connected to the alternator Nuetral wire, so it won't heat up if the engine is not running. Because the N signal is weak, that uses a relay. Either way works.

[I'm BLUE]

You don't need a fuse. Just connect it to the coil resistor (ballast resistor) + side. That circuit is already protected by a fuse. Or if you have the EI coil and have no ballast resistor, connect Fuse wire to Coil +.

 

The factory wiring has it connected to the alternator Nuetral wire, so it won't heat up if the engine is not running. Because the N signal is weak, that uses a relay. Either way works.

 

thats correct ^^^ , i fuse everything :lol:

[LenRobertson]

Thanks for the replies and ideas. The hot wire from the coil sounds quick n easy, my favorite way to do things when I can. I have bypassed the ballast resistor. The L20b I stuck in there came with a matchbox diz.

 

I thought I'd read mention of a choke relay. I suspect there are other 510 owners like me who have no idea what all the little metal boxes under the hood are for. I can pick out the voltage regulator, although I'll be switching to an IR alternator soon, but the rest of them (not even sure how many) are a mystery. Pretend they aren't there and hope they don't give trouble. I need to take time to figure them out, just so I'm not quite so ignorant. At least the Haynes wiring diagram does show them.

 

Len

[banzai510(hainz)]

Len

If your using a Matchbox and no ballast resisitor make sure you have a IE coil. not the old stock point coil in there. Its hard on them and can heat up.

 

ggzilla

You sure you want the +side of the ballast not the other side? Thats why they had the relay to limit the voltage.

 

I got to reread the Dime Quarterly write up again on the 510.

write from Dime Quarterly

For those '72 and later 510's that use an electric choke. The choke relay was energized up by the voltage that appeared on the "N" terminal of the alternator. To energize correctly, the relay was designed for the lower voltage (about 6 volts) that appeared on o the "N" while the alternator was turning (engine running).

 

You need to REPLACE the choke relay with a 12V item. Use the WL wire (switched on with the ignition) to power the relay coil. Run a power source - with an inline fuse - from the battery through the relay to power the electric choke/idle solenoid (if fitted). This lessons the current flowing through the ignition switch, and powers up the choke heating coil when the ignition is on.

[LenRobertson]

hainz - Thanks for the additional information. When I was rewiring for the matchbox, bypassing the dropping resistor, I thought I remembered needing to go to a 12V choke relay. So I searched to try to refresh my dim memory, and found nothing relating to changing the relay when matchbox converting. Yes, my search skills suck, at least for Datsun information. When I couldn't find any info, I thought maybe it is when going to an IR alternator that a 12V choke relay is needed. Anyway, now I know, and can wire in a relay. I was just at NAPA yesterday, and could have picked one up, but I may not have time to put it in if it dries out enough to go back to harvesting.

 

Is there an amp rating I should look for when I go looking for a 12V relay? Use 14 gauge wire?

 

On the other hand, I need to look at the 32/36 Webers I have, and see which one seems best to put a kit in. If it is a manual choke version, maybe I should be hanging a choke cable rather than a relay. I think I have four Webers, but don't know the choke configuration on them. I think at least one was electric choke, but I don't mind using a manual choke. I doubt my wife will ever drive the 510, so no worries having to teach her manual choke procedure. I'll probably spend a bunch of time screwing around with this Hitachi 340, just because it was running on the 510 three years ago. Going right to the Weber may save time in the long run.

 

Len

[ggzilla]

That's right, the N wire of alternator put out a low voltage -- to low for the choke. So they used a relay so a full 12V could get to the choke.

 

If you are not using the N wire, just connect it to 12V.nce. Whereever you find a 12V fused connection. The coil (or ballast ) is the handiest place. But you could use the anti-diesel wire for instance.