green lantern Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 I am new to this forum so I guess this is my introduction It started a couple months ago with a totalling up of my gas moneys for the month and relize that the 16-18 MPG just was not good and everybody need a small truck ...so the search was on The wife liked the more modern 80's-90's while I was stuck an the 70's models found a old 720 and was in the process of buying when we ran into some title issues so that deal falls through the search cont. and I stumble across this nice little 620 Daily Driver I like this truck very much and can see me liking it more and more So now for the truck green 620 running and complete with very little rust extra parts in the deal include a new carb a new fuel pump a new grill a new master clyinder new roter cap plugs brake shoes and a starter I get her home and relize that the carrier bearing is beyond shot and the brakes have to go to the floor to stop the truck but the e-brake works wonderfully I look forward to any and all information that the more experianced people on the board can give me thank you to all in advance You can follow my progress which will be posted on the link below http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3865361 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Good looking truck. Welcome aboard. :D Quote Link to comment
green lantern Posted June 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 thank you in the process of working on the brakes new master cylinder rebuild wheel cylinders new brakes now bled the system and cant get a good pedal read somewhere that there is a propostional valve under the passanger seat on the frame rail there are 3 bleeder screw on this thing is there a special way to bleed this thing cant find anything in my 1976 service manual Can Anybody HELP !!! Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 thank you in the process of working on the brakes new master cylinder rebuild wheel cylinders new brakes now bled the system and cant get a good pedal read somewhere that there is a propostional valve under the passanger seat on the frame rail there are 3 bleeder screw on this thing is there a special way to bleed this thing cant find anything in my 1976 service manual Can Anybody HELP !!! i have a 77 and put new brakes all the way around, just like you i bled and bled and bled, but also i flushed my lines with fuild and blew them out with air, i didnt know about the valve at first but when i did find it i bled each screw one at a time from the rear to the front. when i bled the front screw i got a big burst of air, second and and third time clean fluid and ALOT more pedal pressure after bleeding the valve, get a friend and give it a shot, it cant hurt Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 i have a 77 and put new brakes all the way around, just like you i bled and bled and bled, but also i flushed my lines with fuild and blew them out with air, i didnt know about the valve at first but when i did find it i bled each screw one at a time from the rear to the front. when i bled the front screw i got a big burst of air, second and and third time clean fluid and ALOT more pedal pressure after bleeding the valve, get a friend and give it a shot, it cant hurt The actual carrier bearing rarely fails, though I have heard of lots of people replacing them. Usually what goes bad is the rubber insulator that supports the outer side of the bearing to the frame. If this is the case, trim away all the old rubber and the outer metal ring. I used a piece of 1/4" conveyor belt trimmed to about an inch and a half to two inches wide and long enough to coil around the bearing until it would just fit snugly inside the U shaped strap that bolts it down. The strip cannot be foam rubber, it has to be much more solid like tire rubber. You could wrap it with stove pipe wire to help hold it until tightened down. It must be very snug when finished or it will shake apart. I did this as a temporary fix but it worked so well I left it. Cost $0.000, no vibration and clunking........ priceless. . Quote Link to comment
green lantern Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 i do hear that a lot of people say that the bearing is not what goes bad ... The rubber was total gone but my bearing did not ride smoothly on the axle and I figured while you have the axle out might as well do all the work to it so I replaced everything ...bolts washers nuts cv's bearing etc.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 The carrier bearing does very little but support the drive shaft in position. It's a sealed bearing and a lot of work to unbolt and have a gear puller extract the old one. Fix and drive it, if it should growl then maybe replace. Quote Link to comment
green lantern Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 i think the one i replaced was from 1976 OEM and like i said there was some drag to it anyway its done now tonight i found a weird wire from the battery to under the dash though that it went to the radio but it turns out that the top right fuse melted a connector out (this slot runs the running lights) well to make it work again some genius mechanic ran a 8ga wire from the battery straight to the wire that use to be in the melted slot removed the 8ga wire and now I'm working on fixing the fuse block Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 I am an old hand at brake bleeding datsuns. Under the pass. side mounted under the inner frame rail is the Nissan Load Sensing Valve (NLSV for short).It is a load sensing proportioning valve. It has 3 bleeder screws on it. Proper brake bleeding procedure is as follows: Master cyl Front Master cyl Rear Front Wheel Cylinders (either one 1st) NLSV Front Rear wheel cylinder (LEFT one first) NLSV Rear NLSV Center This operation, in my travels has had to be done at least twice to get a good pedal. Do not attempt to use a Mity Vac or other vacuum pump in this situation, not that it won't work, it will just take a really long time. It really requires a human foot pumper to bleed out the NLSV, I have never had any luck getting it right with the mity-vac........ Hope this Helps WildBill 1 Quote Link to comment
green lantern Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 thanks bill thats what i was looking for thank you Quote Link to comment
herculesinwyoming Posted June 20, 2010 Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 dont make the mistake i did trying to bleed the rear brakes, with the rear end on jack stands higher than normal, shuts the propotioning vale almost closed Quote Link to comment
green lantern Posted June 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2010 thanks hercules that was just what i WAS going to do just in the nick of time Quote Link to comment
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