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1976 Datsun 620


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I am new to this forum so I guess this is my introduction

 

It started a couple months ago with a totalling up of my gas moneys for the month and relize that the 16-18 MPG just was not good

and everybody need a small truck ...so the search was on

The wife liked the more modern 80's-90's while I was stuck an the 70's models

found a old 720 and was in the process of buying when we ran into some title issues so that deal falls through

the search cont. and I stumble across this nice little 620 Daily Driver

I like this truck very much and can see me liking it more and more

 

So now for the truck

green 620 running and complete with very little rust

extra parts in the deal include a new carb a new fuel pump a new grill a new master clyinder new roter cap plugs brake shoes and a starter

 

I get her home and relize that the carrier bearing is beyond shot and the brakes have to go to the floor to stop the truck but the e-brake works wonderfully

 

I look forward to any and all information that the more experianced people on the board can give me

thank you to all in advance

 

You can follow my progress which will be posted on the link below

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3865361

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thank you

 

in the process of working on the brakes

new master cylinder

rebuild wheel cylinders

new brakes

 

now bled the system and cant get a good pedal

read somewhere that there is a propostional valve under the passanger seat on the frame rail

there are 3 bleeder screw on this thing

 

is there a special way to bleed this thing

cant find anything in my 1976 service manual

 

Can Anybody HELP !!!

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thank you

 

in the process of working on the brakes

new master cylinder

rebuild wheel cylinders

new brakes

 

now bled the system and cant get a good pedal

read somewhere that there is a propostional valve under the passanger seat on the frame rail

there are 3 bleeder screw on this thing

 

is there a special way to bleed this thing

cant find anything in my 1976 service manual

 

Can Anybody HELP !!!

i have a 77 and put new brakes all the way around, just like you i bled and bled and bled, but also i flushed my lines with fuild and blew them out with air, i didnt know about the valve at first but when i did find it i bled each screw one at a time from the rear to the front. when i bled the front screw i got a big burst of air, second and and third time clean fluid and ALOT more pedal pressure after bleeding the valve, get a friend and give it a shot, it cant hurt

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i have a 77 and put new brakes all the way around, just like you i bled and bled and bled, but also i flushed my lines with fuild and blew them out with air, i didnt know about the valve at first but when i did find it i bled each screw one at a time from the rear to the front. when i bled the front screw i got a big burst of air, second and and third time clean fluid and ALOT more pedal pressure after bleeding the valve, get a friend and give it a shot, it cant hurt

 

The actual carrier bearing rarely fails, though I have heard of lots of people replacing them. Usually what goes bad is the rubber insulator that supports the outer side of the bearing to the frame.

 

620dsisolator001Large.jpg

620dsisolator002Large.jpg

 

If this is the case, trim away all the old rubber and the outer metal ring. I used a piece of 1/4" conveyor belt trimmed to about an inch and a half to two inches wide and long enough to coil around the bearing until it would just fit snugly inside the U shaped strap that bolts it down. The strip cannot be foam rubber, it has to be much more solid like tire rubber. You could wrap it with stove pipe wire to help hold it until tightened down. It must be very snug when finished or it will shake apart. I did this as a temporary fix but it worked so well I left it. Cost $0.000, no vibration and clunking........ priceless.

 

 

 

 

.

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i do hear that a lot of people say that the bearing is not what goes bad ...

The rubber was total gone but my bearing did not ride smoothly on the axle and I figured while you have the axle out might as well

do all the work to it so I replaced everything ...bolts washers nuts cv's bearing etc..

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The carrier bearing does very little but support the drive shaft in position. It's a sealed bearing and a lot of work to unbolt and have a gear puller extract the old one. Fix and drive it, if it should growl then maybe replace.

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i think the one i replaced was from 1976 OEM

and like i said there was some drag to it

anyway its done now

tonight i found a weird wire from the battery to under the dash

though that it went to the radio but it turns out that the top right fuse melted a connector out (this slot runs the running lights)

well to make it work again some genius mechanic ran a 8ga wire from the battery straight to the wire that use to be in the melted slot

removed the 8ga wire and now I'm working on fixing the fuse block

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I am an old hand at brake bleeding datsuns. Under the pass. side mounted under the inner frame rail is the Nissan Load Sensing Valve (NLSV for short).It is a load sensing proportioning valve. It has 3 bleeder screws on it. Proper brake bleeding procedure is as follows:

 

Master cyl Front

Master cyl Rear

Front Wheel Cylinders (either one 1st)

NLSV Front

Rear wheel cylinder (LEFT one first)

NLSV Rear

NLSV Center

 

This operation, in my travels has had to be done at least twice to get a good pedal. Do not attempt to use a Mity Vac or other vacuum pump in this situation, not that it won't work, it will just take a really long time. It really requires a human foot pumper to bleed out the NLSV, I have never had any luck getting it right with the mity-vac........

 

Hope this Helps

 

WildBill

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