Resurfaced head on L20b. Need a shim?

[hang_510]

The timing cover will NOT come off with the water pump on

:angry: clutch fan...

[justin720]

Update:

 

I've got the chain back on in the #2 position. It's slightly off the line, but about as much as described in the video.

 

Look OK?

 

 

[motavated]

HAHHAHAHAH! Almost done finally. Well at least you know more about your engine. Good job man did you paint it? Congrats!!!

[justin720]

HAHHAHAHAH! Almost done finally. Well at least you know more about your engine. Good job man did you paint it? Congrats!!!

 

:) Yeah I did a home job on the paint. Closest yellow I could find to match the truck for the block, white for the head, polished the aluminum for valve cover. Looks so much better than it was but not as good as a pro job. Still deciding on what color to do the air cleaner.

[datzenmike]

 

Shove the slack side (tensioner side) guide over as far to the left as you can. Hainz can you, or should you, oval the bottom hole so the guide will go over even further?

 

 

.

[banzai510(hainz)]

for some reason I cant see Justins photos.

 

Mike i assume you can post that recent L20 shot you had with the tensioner in all the way. As I cant post photos anymore.

 

I push the slack side guide in to the right. esp the upper part to push the tensioner IN.

 

 

MY goal is to save L motors!!!!!!!!!!

 

I wouldnt paint the head, L motors look nice with the aluminum head on a painted block. the paint flacks off anyways then look like shit

[banzai510(hainz)]

Do you have the brite links on your chain? If yes then you set the brite links on the dimples. On the upper sprocket and the lower sprocket. The your fine.

If your chain dont have these. I guess you could loosen this up and move it a link retarted and see where the U notch goes. But I think your fine on this set up. Dont worry it will run. If it dont start up make sure the valve lash is OK. use a feeler gauge for the rocker arms.

 

since your slack side guide doesnt have the oblong slot this will still be OK. Thats the best you can do and it will be fine.

[justin720]

Do you have the brite links on your chain? If yes then you set the brite links on the dimples. On the upper sprocket and the lower sprocket. The your fine.

If your chain dont have these. I guess you could loosen this up and move it a link retarted and see where the U notch goes. But I think your fine on this set up. Dont worry it will run. If it dont start up make sure the valve lash is OK. use a feeler gauge for the rocker arms.

 

since your slack side guide doesnt have the oblong slot this will still be OK. Thats the best you can do and it will be fine.

 

No bright links that I could see, so I just played with the three different positions and chose the one that lined up the best and had the best tension on the tight side.

 

Yeah I was surprised when the new slack side guide came in looking a little different from the one that was already in the truck.

 

Just to clarify, do I need to adjust the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the camshaft, AND also between the rocker arm and the valve stem?

[datsunaholic]

You can't measure the clearance from the rocker to the valve stem- the lash pad is in the way. The L-series clearance is always done at the cam lobe-rocker.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Just to clarify, do I need to adjust the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the camshaft

 

YES, since it was apart do this ,adjust the rocker arm to cam lash. I usually do the valvelash on the head before I mount it to the motor.I have a spare motor with no pistons in it and I bolt it to the empty block and turn the cam adjusting the rockers.

 

Mklotz has a vedio in the How TO section on ratsun on how to do this when head is installed on a motor.

 

To make this simple as possible. install you distributor and make sure that lines up also. If motor dont start it probable need the valve lash dont as the valve is not closing all the way and letting the comppression out(no comppression at all really).

 

Now

Its up to you if you want to move it a link to make sure your cam is lined up correctly ,so the U is more on the dash. You can always gently mount he front cover back on. turn motor slight Counterclockwise then bring it back on the timming marks on the crank (ZERO) then look at the cam sprocket. Thats why I like people buying the New Jap made timming set so the brite link take the guess work out on MY PART so I dont have to write a ESSAY everytime doing this. It could be just the charateristec of the manufactur of the sprocket. but what ever you do I gaureenteee it will run once you set the valve lash. long as intake is tight no vacuum leaks.

[justin720]

Just to clarify, do I need to adjust the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the camshaft

 

YES, since it was apart do this ,adjust the rocker arm to cam lash. I usually do the valvelash on the head before I mount it to the motor.I have a spare motor with no pistons in it and I bolt it to the empty block and turn the cam adjusting the rockers.

 

Mklotz has a vedio in the How TO section on ratsun on how to do this when head is installed on a motor.

 

To make this simple as possible. install you distributor and make sure that lines up also. If motor dont start it probable need the valve lash dont as the valve is not closing all the way and letting the comppression out(no comppression at all really).

 

Now

Its up to you if you want to move it a link to make sure your cam is lined up correctly ,so the U is more on the dash. You can always gently mount he front cover back on. turn motor slight Counterclockwise then bring it back on the timming marks on the crank (ZERO) then look at the cam sprocket. Thats why I like people buying the New Jap made timming set so the brite link take the guess work out on MY PART so I dont have to write a ESSAY everytime doing this. It could be just the charateristec of the manufactur of the sprocket. but what ever you do I gaureenteee it will run once you set the valve lash. long as intake is tight no vacuum leaks.

 

Great videos. thanks! Today I finally got my oil pan back on. I went to Autozone and rented a fork spreader to lower one side of the crossbar. I had decided to just take it off because I was curious and wanted to be really thorough. Well I'm glad I did. It was like sludge in there and I saw way more evidence of antifreeze too. It was a real pain to take it out with the strainer in there. My manual didn't say anything about it. But it's all back on and looking good.

 

I did exactly as you described in terms of turning it slightly counterclockwise, then lined it back up with the "0" mark and the groove and line match up almost perfectly! Your video makes it look so easy, and I'm sure it is when it isn't your first engine. Your help has been invaluable.

 

Tomorrow I'll adjust the valves, put in the oil pump and distributor, and all the other parts and see what happens.

[justin720]

Well, against all odds, I finished! It took several minutes for it to start, partly due to a weak battery, and partly due to the fuel needing to get to the carburetor. What a great feeling. Anyway, there is a knocking noise coming from the valve cover. Perhaps I should drive it a few miles and let things settle and then see if I need to adjust valves? Just because I'm nervous/curious about the fact that the head was shaved down to the bare minimum, what would it sound like/what would happen if the piston was hitting the valves?

 

Man thanks so much for all your expertise and help. I surely would have spent another month in there without it. Hainz your video rocks man.

 

Justin

[banzai510(hainz)]

look in to the knock ASAP.

Dont drive it around.

[justin720]

look in to the knock ASAP.

Dont drive it around.

 

Ok not driving it around, but after listening to it this morning (had to go back and get he family car) it's more of tick tick then a hard knock. It also runs about the same as it did before. I'll be out of town for a week then report back, but should I just be adjusting the valves when it's warm rather than cold to see if that helps?

[hang_510]

nice job!

 

but should I just be adjusting the valves when it's warm rather than cold to see if that helps?

yes.

[justin720]

Tonight I got back into the garage and adjusted the valves. I got it all warmed up and set them to .006 and .008. The job went pretty quickly and things were still hot to the touch by the time I was done so hopefully it was a consistent adjustment. When I put the gasket back on I left off the silicone just in case more adjustments needed to be made since it was a real pain to clean everything off.

 

Well the ticking went away and it sounds beautiful but after the automatic choke is done, it idles very very low and even stalls out a few times. So I drove it around a bit to see if warming it up would help. It did a little, but not much. So should I readjust the valves to .008 and .010 instead? Or can I adjust the idle speed?

 

It's good to have my truck running again!

[banzai510(hainz)]

adjust the mixture screw(the one at the base of the carb with the tension spring). Turn it in/out till you get it smooth as possible.

then try using a timming light. get it about 7-12 degs.

and set the speed idle screw. usaully a srew that holds the plate open. set to 700-100 or what makes u happy.

 

you do this back and forth a few times.

 

I adjust mine valves to 6 and 8 also. But remember as they wear the exhaust will get tigher and need to ck every 5k miles or so(if loosing compression)

[hang_510]

So should I readjust the valves to .008 and .010 instead?

 

It's good to have my truck running again!

check it after a few tanks/~500mi, cold and see where they are at. should still be w/in tolerance. adjust if necsessary.

 

 

running good = :hyper:

[justin720]

check it after a few tanks/~500mi, cold and see where they are at. should still be w/in tolerance. adjust if necsessary.

 

 

running good = :hyper:

 

turns out i adjusted them to .006 and .008 when it was hot. oops. My manual said .010 and .012 hot and .007 and .009 cold. So today I did them at .008 and .010 hot. I then rechecked them when it was cold with .006 and .008 and it was perfect! I did have to adjust the idle screw a fair bit though. It would barely stay running. So now it idles at 1000 rpm. I'll see if I can get my hands on a timing light.