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The Lime Green Machine


1BadZ

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Thats the key point i tried to make skib.. What i am saying to you is .. IT IS basic engine "theory" all it is, is doing it to its full extent....

 

 

every performance engine build uses basic theory's, thats why they are the basics

 

your still not presenting any hard evidence at all

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Skib, your still doing it bud.. Your still acting like theres a secret.. There isnt.. It is just BASIC.... I just took the basics, and went to the next level with them..

 

 

 

I dont believe theres a "secret" to your build because I know how to build good HP L's

 

I have 0 belief that an N/A 2.8L is putting out 400hp, I love L6's but its just not capable of doing it N/A.

What Im looking for is hard data, saying you "went to the next level" provides no technical data at all.

 

 

Your just blowin smoke and have no idea what your talking about, but if you have the hard data to prove me wrong Id love to see it.

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first off, DATASCAN is for diagnostics an such, Not tuning.. second you cannot modify the files on the stock ecu, without having it chipped.. third you had no idea what i meant by AFR which means you dont use a wideband to tune since its a commonly used word.. you were thinking AFPR (adjustable fuel pressure regulator) so you basicly told me your fuel pressure i believe?? although it just kinda seems like you googled some shit real quick to responde with..

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I'm not doubting the HP figure. There is that IMSA race car that puts out 400 HP n/a out of a 2.4 liter increaed to a 2.5!

 

Although getting that kind of power would be really difficult, and the stock transmission can't handle much more than ~350 HP.

 

Of course the design of L-series heads aren't that great to begin with, compared to modern engines...they were designed in the 60's. Are you running a P90 head?

 

It is possible to make that power with ~420 cc/min injectors. For all you doubters, check out this link where you can estimate possible HP. It is based on the injector duty cycle (unless you can change ECU setting, it is probably 85%. Then you look at the BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption).

 

Say that your engine is now .42-.47 BSFC. Look in the chart for ~420 cc/min and you get ~70 HP per injector, so about 420 HP. I assume this is on pump gas, not race gas.

 

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm#ITABLE

 

Here is a Robello Racing 3.2 liter stroker that puts out *only* 320 HP :P

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I find this thread intriguing. However, you are going to have to post a bit more than just claims to convince most of the people here. I don't know if you are hiding a super secret setup or something but claiming "when it comes to the corners i havent found anything even remotely able to keep up that is still street legal" and not backing it up with a single detail on your suspension setup is asking for people to be a little suspect. And then there are you engine claims...

 

But I will bite. I'm trying to think in terms of what you call "the basics." The fundamentals for making power as far as I have learned are more air, more fuel, more squish (from a higher compression ratio or forced induction) and more bang equals more power. You have given the motor more squish from your raised compression ratio, and more air and fuel from you mysterious ECU tuning, so I'm sure there is going to be more bang...but how are you making 400hp when people with much more radical NA L-engines are barely pushing 300hp? At WOT, carbs and EFI do not differ much. So I don't see how your ECU tuning could make so much of a difference at peak power compared to other race motors. With that cam, you can't be dumping in any more fuel than the other guys, and you certainly aren't getting any more air than the guys running ITB's...so what is the "basic" trick you are claiming? Please enlighten us with more than broad claims about "engine efficiency."

 

Edit: I forgot RPM's as a making power factor, but you would have to be spinning that thing tighter than a virgin on prom night to get even close to the figures you are talking about.

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ok, reading your car info in your profile I now know you are indeed "full of it"

 

 

Hp: Approx of 400hp at 9.2 to 1 comp. (N/A Motor) <--This is not possible on an L28,

also a CR discrepancy from your post here

Torque : Approx 375ft lbs. (These are approx because it lit the tires up on the dyno at 2700 rpms) ..... riiiight.

2 1/2 inch long tube 6-2-1 header 1 7/8 ports with 2 1/2 inch strait pipe flared to a 3 1/2 inch DG tip.

Its a 400k mile car engine rebuilt with mild build about 20k ago (blew the head few months back, new head and about 300 miles on it since its been redone again) too many race miles..

The car runs on 9 1/2 inch wide kumhos, and ran a 11.4 on the 1/4

19 inch tall rear wing, with a dealer installed front air dam. <-- thats a xenon airdam :rolleyes:

No bumper car (My opinion it ruins the looks of the Z)

Classic 5 slot mags, 14"

 

Things to come:

 

I will be hand building a Tubed frame and rollcage (6 or 8 pt)

Custom built 6 inch widebody with 4 inch fender flares.

6 piston caliper front, 4 piston caliper rear with drilled slotted rotters on both.

L28ETT

2 GT51S HKS turbos <-- if you really knew as much as you claim youd know that TT on an L6 is utterly pointless

Front mount IC

6 Speed sequencial with R200 rear end. <-- its a 280, really? it comes with an R200 stock

15 Inch wide tires front and rear

Hand built A Arms and a heavier duty drive shaft and half shafts.

 

I wounlnt even bother correcting the rest

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Although getting that kind of power would be really difficult, and the stock transmission can't handle much more than ~350 HP.

 

Of course the design of L-series heads aren't that great to begin with, compared to modern engines...they were designed in the 60's. Are you running a P90 head?

 

 

 

L28 with N42 head 10.5 to 1 comp, ported and polished

Aftermarket cam lift 460/460 duration 270/280 (Stage 3)

Stronger valve springs

Milled head and plained block

Big throat throttle body

Upgraded injectors (i believe there 420's)

2.5" Long tube 6-2-1 with strait pipe (no muffler baffle or cat)

3.5" Intake with K&N air filter

High volume fuel pump

The timing curve on the distributor has been reground with the timing at +5

 

Now as far as the rest of the drive train, Its got a 79 zx 5 speed, with a stage 2 clutch, and a semi lightened flywheel (had 4 holes drilled into the stock flywheel, removed approx 3 lbs)

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I will simply state this to end conversation.. I will get the dyno results on video and pictures.. Then we can continue discussion..

 

Cheers -1BadZ-

 

 

I wanna know about the intake :cool:

 

 

let me know when you dyno it and Ill come down to see it for myself.

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All you guys are doing is flaming.. LMAO.. This reminds me of other nissan forums.. How sad.. And I actually heard good things about Ratsun.net... Tisk Tisk...

 

Convo over... till i get my videos for you..

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