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Well in the start of fall (in Pittsburgh) i found a 1980 datsun 510 in some dude's back yard. The car is great but there is some rust here and there, the motor only as 60k on it.:) Well i just started on it and i find out that there parts are very hard to find. So if anyone can help me to find or as parts that they want to sell please message me at Teckademics018@yahoo.com

thanks zac

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Hey i looked at that and the only thing i want off that car is the fenders, i am looking for performance parts b/c i am staying with the motor that is in it and i need more power

 

So you have a Z20S NAPS motor with a carb? It stands for Nissan Anti Pollution System, I like to call it the Nissan Anti Performance System (sorry) The problem with the Z series engines was that the head design and valve geometry does not lend itself well to improvements. There is little room for larger valves, and increasing their lift will make them hit each other. Although it is a cross flow head there is a sharp short radius turn on the intakes, which also limits good high RPM breathing. The purpose of this head was to limit emissions and high end performance was not intended.

 

Now the good news. If you take the head, and timing gears, chain and cover off an L20B engine and install on your Z20 engine you now can use all the performance equipment designed for the L series engines. Headers, carbs, side draft intakes, hi-perf cams, oversize valves, after market springs etc. The Z20, like the L20B have a fully counterweighted crank, good for smooth high reving. The Z22 and Z24 didn't.

 

If you are sticking with the Z20, and can find an '80 or '81 200sx, you could easily swap the multi port fuel injection onto it, making it a Z20E engine. An improvement in driveability over a carb. With this set up you could fab an exhaust manifold for a turbo (there's lots of room on the exhaust side for one) but lots of work needed.

 

The Z20 had two big brothers... the Z22 and the Z24. Neither were screamers but produced huge torque at lower speeds, where most driving is done anyway. The Z22 did come as an S (carb) and as an E (EFI). The Z24 were truck (torque) motors with carbs and later with throttle body injection (Z24i)

 

The Z22 and Z24 will drop in, the Z24 is about 3/4" taller that the Z20, but would be a huge gain in go power. The L series head swap would be some work, plus you would have to find the performance parts for it.

 

Some things to think about.

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Mike nailed it. There are different ways to go, and you need to think hard about what you can and want to do with the car. Any of the feasible options will take a lot of work. Much of it will depend on your resources and skill level.

 

Are you adept at tearing heads off motors and putting them back together? Can you fabricate custom manifolds for a turbo? Feel like swapping one motor for another? Know what it takes to convert a carberated car into a fuel injected one?

 

Rarely are there "parts" to make our cars go faster. They are old cars designed for durability and economy. Making them fast generally takes a bit of redesigning.

 

Keep us posted on what you decide to do.

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Mike nailed it. There are different ways to go, and you need to think hard about what you can and want to do with the car. Any of the feasible options will take a lot of work. Much of it will depend on your resources and skill level.

 

Are you adept at tearing heads off motors and putting them back together? Can you fabricate custom manifolds for a turbo? Feel like swapping one motor for another? Know what it takes to convert a carberated car into a fuel injected one?

 

Rarely are there "parts" to make our cars go faster. They are old cars designed for durability and economy. Making them fast generally takes a bit of redesigning.

 

Keep us posted on what you decide to do.

 

Well my friend as a shop and the garage i am going to i can do almost anything, i do not very many skills, i am learning still b/c this 510 is my first car and i am only 14 going on 15. Here is the link for my friend shop, the link may not work idk

http://www.1st-try.com

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I kinda like the '80 510, best of all it's a DATSUN!

 

Dude, age means little if you want something bad enough. Just don't make the mistake of taking too big a bite. Start with what you've got, keep your projects in line with your skills, keep your goal in sight. This project should grow with you.

 

Good luck on your car,

mike

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I kinda like the '80 510, best of all it's a DATSUN!

 

Dude, age means little if you want something bad enough. Just don't make the mistake of taking too big a bite. Start with what you've got, keep your projects in line with your skills, keep your goal in sight. This project should grow with you.

 

Good luck on your car,

mike

 

Will mike that sound like what i need to do, but i do have so driving skills b/c i learned to drive in my brother 94 300zx n/a, so i want my 510 to have power.

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Mike's right on here. Before the power comes, suspension and brakes should be upgraded or at least brought to full, factory specs first. If you get that 510 of yours up and going, you still gotta be able to get it to handle and stop right? It's not the sexy way of doing it, but, more practical for sure.

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Mike's right on here. Before the power comes, suspension and brakes should be upgraded or at least brought to full, factory specs first. If you get that 510 of yours up and going, you still gotta be able to get it to handle and stop right? It's not the sexy way of doing it, but, more practical for sure.

 

that is right, but i am think what brakes will fit on the car, can u help me on that?:D

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If I'm correct, the spindle should handle the 200sx or 280zx rotors from the same era along with the calipers. If you aren't going to upgrade the brake master to a 7/8" or 15/16" one (I think the stock HL510 one is 13/16") I would stick with the 200sx rotors and calipers. You'll have to change the bearings of course if you do this. So while you have it all apart do the bushings and ball joints too and save yourself some grief.

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This is probably the best tip of all: buy at least one brand name manual that covers the year of your car. A second one will fill in some gaps or may have the proper pictures. Trust me on this, it will pay for itself the first time you look up something to fix a problem. Well, unless you ask about it here. lol

 

They cover maintainance, tune ups, engine/trans identification, engine/carb/ trans rebuilding, electrical, EFI, suspension, steering, brakes and on and on.

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This is probably the best tip of all: buy at least one brand name manual that covers the year of your car. A second one will fill in some gaps or may have the proper pictures. Trust me on this, it will pay for itself the first time you look up something to fix a problem. Well, unless you ask about it here. lol

 

They cover maintainance, tune ups, engine/trans identification, engine/carb/ trans rebuilding, electrical, EFI, suspension, steering, brakes and on and on.

 

Hey i got that already lol

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