510six Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 If you plan on doing any drag strip duty in the 510 the R180 will break with sticky tires with anything past 200 rwh. If you plan on doing street driving only the R180 should work fine with stock axels, I would at least run Neapco Brute Force U joints if the stock units are worn. Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 No serious drag racing, won't be the cars only role. If I break something I break something. I did get it in and on the ground. Glad I've got coil overs. Here are the coils all the way up, it definitely moves the mount up a few inches lol. How far the wheels stuck out before. How far they stick out now. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Is this with the entire suspension setup under the car? Or just the control arms... Very interesting. Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Rear suspension specs on her now are 510 penultimate crossmember Top Motoring coil overs 280zx control arms r180 from the same 280zx axles from the same 280zx 15x7 0 offset wheels Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 That thing's gonna have some bitchen stance once you get it all lined up. Flare time! Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 And I need to check tomorrow, I think the stock spring perches that hang down are hitting the control arm, probably need to cut them. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Yes, you definitely need to cut off the bump stop pillars from the body if you want it to go very low. Quote Link to comment
BJW's FiveTen's Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Wow :confused:, It moved the wheels out a lot more than I was thinking it would :(. I guess i need to do some more work to get 16x8 wheels under the back of my dome with zx arms and no flares. Time to see what is involved in making my own arms. I want to take stock arms, move where the stub shaft comes through up about 1-1/2". Like when you Z the frame on a vehicle. Similar to how a drop spindle works in the front of a car, just move up where the axle comes though? Any thoughts:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Wow :confused:, It moved the wheels out a lot more than I was thinking it would :(. I guess i need to do some more work to get 16x8 wheels under the back of my dome with zx arms and no flares. Time to see what is involved in making my own arms. I want to take stock arms, move where the stub shaft comes through up about 1-1/2". Like when you Z the frame on a vehicle. Similar to how a drop spindle works in the front of a car, just move up where the axle comes though? Any thoughts:rolleyes:16x8 +38 fits fairly well with ZX arms. +38 just barely clears the arm itself (had to trim/straighten the seam on the arm as it bends outward towards the rim just slightly at the seam/bottom of the arm). This is with no modification to the crossmember: Quote Link to comment
freekwonder Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 anybody check out the honda wheel adapters that modern motorsports sells. Quote Link to comment
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