g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Well, I tackled this tonight and it didn't go well. Removed the points and installed the Igniter okay. The rubber is too small to fill the opening where the wire for the points was hooked. Not sure what to do there, but that's minor. The wire that went to the points is disconnected. The red wire from the Igniter is connected to the + on the Flamethrower coil. The black is to the - side. The There was a wire coming from the Ballast Resistor that went to the + on the old coil, plus a wire from the harness. I must assume the wire from the Ballast was the one to the old points, and the one from the wire harness is the ignition. When I try to start it, it fires intermittently, but never starts. I tried moving the dist to change the timing and no joy. I also tried a new Dist and Rotor. I'll be on the phone with Pertronix tomorrow. I really don't want to put the points back in there. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) You still have the old Black/White stripe wire from the ballast hooked up because it should be. The Black/Red wire from the harness is hot only on start. The Black/White from the ballast is hot all the time when ignition is ON only. If you only have the wire from the harness hooked up it will fire while cranking, BUT will quit as soon as you let go of the key! Edited July 10, 2009 by datzenmike Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Okay. I was told to eliminate the ballast, so I should jumper the two wires to and from the ballast to the coil + side? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 what ohm is this Flame thrower coil??????? If its 3 ohm then put the BLK/WHT wire on the +side coil, and also the blk/blu wire to the + side coil. This is the datsun wireing. + of Pertronix will be + side coil - side Pertronix will be - side coil. if you have the 1.5 ohm Falme thrower coil you should leave the ballast resisitor in there. persoanlly I would have left the stock coil and ballast in there anyways to make sure it runs first. Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Okay, so here's some diagrams. As it was Possiblity #1 Posibility #2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 anything "Points wire" goes to ground. read above thats how you hook it up. Wires comming from the stock Point dizzy will not be used. wrap it/coil it up and stick it under somewhere incase you want to go back to points. PS the Pertronix has instructions. Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Got it. The isntructions are not so clear when eliminating the ballast. I need to get some wire and extend the Pertronix wires. They are way too short to reach the coil. Also, the little groment on the Igniter wires won't fill that huge square opening where the old points wire went. I'll try to find something to fill that void. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) as for the gommet yes you might have to rig something but no big deal. But what I did is use the black spacer that was in there and removed the contack and drill a hole just big enough to route the 2 wires thru there while keep slight tension on it(Hold the wires) then maybe use some Black Permatex RTV if you want more a proffesional look but drilling out the black contackholder was enough for me. So route the wires first then add the newlonger wires to it then install to the coil You never said which ohm coil you got. The 3 ohm or the 1.5 ohm.???? Edited July 10, 2009 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 (edited) I have the 3.0 Ohm coil. Still no go. It fires, chugs like on two cylinders, and dies. Spits fuel back out the carb. I have tried moving the dist. At one far end it fires better but no start, and no more adjustment. At the other end it doesn't want to fire at all. Edited July 10, 2009 by g-mam Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 take a photo of what you got hooked up. The color code I gave uyou is for a 510 But will assume the same on a 620 but not positive. the blk/wht wire is 12 volt "ON" position on switch blk/blu is the "HOT START" which will get 12 volts in the START position. Did you take the plug wires off the dizzy cap and put them back on wrong??????? I just left the dizzy cap off to the side so evrything stays the same. Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Got her running. It was the timing. Not enough adjustment to get in spec. Removed the Dist and lossened the plate on the bottom giving more adjustment. Dead on now 12 deg BTDC. Cudos to Pertronix who was on the phone with me for about an hour. It was hooked up right. Still gotta pull that carb off and fix it. I can't see how to get to all the bolts on it's plate. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 thats great!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 While working on this, I noticed two blue wires going into the thermostat housing? One of the blue wires is broken off and the other is coroded pretty bad. That is that sending unit for? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 save this website!!!!!!!!!! http://www.olddatsuns.com/data/dat620-1974.pdf thermostat still work???????????? Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 save this website!!!!!!!!!! http://www.olddatsuns.com/data/dat620-1974.pdf thermostat still work???????????? Yes, have that. I've been staring at that diagram for an hour now, and can't find what I need. Wires should be L/L. Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Here's the wire. Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Its a temperature switch for the carb? I bought it new but I think for me that I changed to a weber it has no more use. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 It's a temperature switch for the EGR cutout. On the diagram it's marked "Water Temperature Switch" with a black and a blue/yellow wire. If you trace the wires back to where they acutally plug in vs on the switch itself, you'll see the proper colors. It drives the EGR cutout relay. Only used on '74s, though earlier Datsuns used the same switch as part of the dual-point cut-in circuit. Later Datsuns used a thermal vacuum switch instead of electric for the EGR cut-out. The guage sender is the single-pole with the yellow wire. Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Is it even used? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted July 10, 2009 Report Share Posted July 10, 2009 Is it even used? Well, it certainly isn't working the way it is. Only you can determine if you want to use it or not. I can see that you still have the EGR valve in place, with the wire broken I assume that it just stays closed all the time. Quote Link to comment
g-mam Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2009 I thought this may be a hard one to find, but good old Advanced Auto will have one here tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.