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'78 B210 - New daily driver


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I put genuine Nissan outers on. They don't even touch the glass. Everyone says it's always been that way, they are one part Nissan didn't get right.

 

I would love to know where you obtained genuine nissan outer squeegees at that would fit my B210.

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What other stock seats will fit in this car? I tried replacing seats in a B210 in about '86 and it didn't go well. Part of it was my inexperience, and part of it was the seats I was able to find. I think they were from an '81 B210 and they didn't fit without lots of messing around.

 

It seems like I might be able to get the driver's seat fixed if I can replace the lower seat cushion. If Z seats would fit on the rails, that would probably work as well.

 

ggzilla turned me on to Blue Lake, and I'd like to try to go, but not without a better seat first.

 

Ideas and solutions appreciated. Pics too, if you have different seats in yours. :)

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I would love to know where you obtained genuine nissan outer squeegees
I got them from Too Intense Restoration. You can Bing for the address.

 

What other stock seats will fit in this car?
No other seats, you have to do simple modifications. My favorite are fox-body seats, like Turbo Coupe or Mustang GT. Read up here: Datsun1200.com Tech: Adapting Seats. Remember that a 1981 model is not a B210, that's why they didn't fit your B210.

 

 

Will an electronic distributor from an A15 drop in the A14?
Absolutely. But you will need this dohickey:

14739.jpg

Or you can use a simple jumper wire.

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I picked up a pair of older import seats today, before I actually pulled one from the B210. Now I remember the problems I had with this in the past. A flat bottomed seat won't work in the B210 unless the seat bottom is very thin.

 

Here's some photos showing the 'problem':

 

323_2372.jpg

 

323_2374.jpg

 

The seat itself is built in such a fashion that the seat rails are roughly 4" different in height.

 

B210Seats.jpg

 

I thought someone posted something about '95 Eclipse seats in a Bee, but I can't find the thread.

 

I have a really nice pair of buckets now that I don't think I'll use. If anyone needs some, let me know. I don't have measurements ATM, but the seat rails from the B210 bolted right to them with no mods. Once mounted, the rails themselves were about an inch wider than the stock locations in the floor. My problem with this, is that in order to get the seat level, the whole thing sits 4" higher than stock.

 

323_2375.jpg

 

323_2376.jpg

 

323_2377.jpg

 

I should have pulled one before I went to the yard, grrrr. Is the 1200 floor flat?

Edited by nukeday
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Only the later B210 have this non-flat floor. The 1976.5 - 1978 have bulge (passenger side only) for the catalytic converter. Datsun 1200 (B110) and 1974-1976.5 have flat floor. Some guys drill a hole in the bulge and bolt the sear rail directly to it.

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hey nuke. i'm the one who dropped 95 eclipse seats in my bee. check out a picture here.

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=9939&highlight=ca18det+bee

on the second page

 

it was super easy to drop these in. you will need to drill three holes per seat to bolt it down. you will need to use the front bolt hole closest to the door as a reference point for exactly where to put to the seat. using this bolt hole places the seat perfectly. you will have to sit about 1.5 inches lower than the stock seat. if you need more detailed pics let me know since i'm actually going to be working on the interrior this weekend.

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  • 4 weeks later...

ggzilla called me yesterday from the JY, and snagged a deck lid, driver's seat and window trim for me. What an awesome group of people here!

 

I'll update when I can get with him to pick up the parts. I'm pretty excited, the drive to Blue Lake was miserable 'cuz of the driver's seat...

 

I've been looking at the passenger floor, and there is a ribbon cable that runs front to back near the kick rail. Anyone know what it is? I'm beginning to think I may just try to 'glas the hole in. Recommendations or comments?

Edited by nukeday
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  • 1 month later...
ggzilla called me yesterday from the JY, and snagged a deck lid, driver's seat and window trim for me. What an awesome group of people here!

 

Well, ggzilla is on his way to JCCS and was kind enough to plop my B210 parts in the back of the 1200 Ute. He was coming right by my place, so we just met and I picked up the the parts he'd pulled for me over a month ago. Talk about 'delivery in style', my humble B has been touched by 'The Ute'...

 

Thank you David!!

 

Now to get to work...

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As far as the dizzy goes.. yes. it will work. I have a later electronic dist. in my a13 and it was the best upgrade dollar wise I have done to the car. It is amazing how much better the car runs and revs (especially) with the newer dizzy.

 

The seats are kinda a chore. I just took the rails off of my stock seats and mounted them on to the bottom of my s14 seats. It took a couple hours but they work great now. I actually have changed to a celica supra seat for the drivers temporarily because a friend needed an s14 seat for his daily. I let him borrow mine till he gets his own.

 

If your looking for the best upgrade out there for a b210 you should swap over to 280zx front struts. They bolt on to the b210 control arm. You will actually reuse your stock springs, Just cut them shorter. You will also have to cut the spring cup off of your old strut and sit it in the 280zx one..

 

With the upgrade you get..

slightly wider stance in the front.. around 15mm

better valving for the front of the car.. 280zx valving.. more aftermarket support

bigger brakes.. vented bigger rotors and calipers.. huge improvement

 

I swapped over to the 280zx stuff up front on my car and it works great. I really like it. Ive dropped my car alot with them and tracked the car with no issues from the front end. I recommend it to all the b210 guys.

 

I also threw some cheap "helper" springs from autozone on the rear leaves to help with body roll.. And I went to 85 camaro rear shocks.. again.. they have alot better valving and have a big aftermarket. Ive also put two inch blocks in the rear as well.. I dont have any recent pics since Ive finished lowering it.. the last one in my thread is of the car before the rear blocks.

 

Anyway, your car has alot of potential. Im probably the biggest b210 fan out there.. well.. except maybe my wife.. she daily's ours now since Ive got my truck and the cressida now..

 

I will take some pics of those hubcaps and send them too you later :)

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My 1200 used to the 38 mpg, figure adjusted for speedometer tolerance (by the speedometer it would have been 42 mpg). EPA rated it at 37.8 back in the day. Now the carb is not so good, and am getting about 28 around town.

 

I've talked to many owners that said they never got the rated MPG. And to quite a few that said they got 50 or even 60 mpg which I don't believe at all. The speedometer is often 10-15% off from the factory, for one thing.

 

I bought a 1978 B210 last march and have been commuting in it since then.

After cleaning the carb and putting in new plugs and wires, I ran a tank of gas through it and got 37 MPG. It had stock tires on it and I drove right at 60, but after a while I started driving it faster, no change in milage running upwards of 70 mph. I put 75/85 wt in the trans and rearend and the gas milage went up a bit, I put wider 185/60 13 tires on it, milage went up a tiny bit. It's all stock, smokes a bit: A14, 5 speed elect. dist etc.

Here's the facts:

 

Miles 8928.9

Gallons 235.094

MPG 38.166

 

Best Tank 41

Worst Tank 35

Edited by goes211
accidently posted before finishing
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The more I ride around in this thing, the more evident it is that it needs SOMETHING done to the suspension. I have ZERO experience with struts, so I'll ask a newb question:

 

How do you change just the cartridge in a strut? Specifically in a B210?

 

I've looked through my '78 factory manual, and I can't figure it out. I don't think this is beyond my ability, but I really like to have a manual with me when I do something the first time (ten times...lol). There is an entire section on rebuilding your struts, but I can't seem to find anything on just replacing the cartridge.

 

I've looked through several threads here, and it seems that everyone just 'upgrades' or swaps in different struts, complete with the spindles. I'm not really interested in ZX struts or severely lowering the car, but I would like something near stock performance from the front end.

 

I'm probably over complicating this. It looks like the tube the cartridge goes in simply opens up and the cartridge is threaded down in there. Is that all there is to it?

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1. Compress the spring with those threaded rod things (can buy or rent from Shuck's)

2. Remove the strut. 3 bolts at top, steering arm joint, and two bolts at ball joint

3. With strut assembly out of the car, Unbolt the center nut and remove the spring

4. Loosen the big ring nut and the strut guts are accessible.

5. Remove and discard the guts

6. Insert the new Nissan strut cartridge (and some CCs of oil)

7. Bolt back together

 

For comfort and good suspension, use the Nissan non-gas cartridges. For racing, you may want a stiff gas strut cartridge.

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The more I ride around in this thing, the more evident it is that it needs SOMETHING done to the suspension. I have ZERO experience with struts...

 

You will find this chore quite simple once you start taking it apart. Mine were shot when I got it, as were the rear shocks, one of the calipers was stuck, and the steering loose, so it was basically terrifying to drive home. Fixing the calipers made it stop making un-commanded left turns. Struts and shocks made it better yet, but tie rods, center link and ball joints made all the difference, and each of those things are very manageable. Mine drives great, I put a 1" swaybar on the front and now it's like a go cart. The rear suspension is harsh, but everything else works well together. Watch ebay for the front end parts, I got mine cheap

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