Electric Ignition help

[jonesy510]

my coil is wired the exact same. i followed the diagram and checked it over and over and over again everything is right. its not the wiring for the coil to the dist. i have found out that the black/white wire has the needed volts when the ignition is on BUT its when i turn the motor over to start the car the black/white wire loses power completely... im gunna have my friend take a look at it hopefully this weekend if i cant figure out why the black/white wire loses power if he has no clue then i will put my dizzy from the old motor in but the points are messed up on that too.. but at least i know it works.

 

DAMN i just realized i have a stats final tomorrow...:blink:

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ok I been watching this to see if you guys figure it out. Its a 15min job.

 

 

 

how about hook ther blk/wht & blk/blu wire together @ the +side coil then you got it covered.(Some people do this but notice not many people do it.)

 

yes, Blk/wht wire is 12volt in the "ON" Position

Yes the Blk/Blu wire is 12volt ONLY in the "START" position.

 

Im not positive anymore if you loose the 12volts to the blk/wht wire when its in the START position. usaully what happens it stays running in START then when key goes back to ON , " IF"car dies. That means blk wht wire dont have 12volts. But you say it does.

 

Also try this is remove the connecter by the steering and rehook it back up. Could be a loose connection

 

 

 

REMEMBER do not use a "POINT" coil on this as it will OVERHEAT the coil

Edited May 21, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[72wagun]

...i have found out that the black/white wire has the needed volts when the ignition is on BUT its when i turn the motor over to start the car the black/white wire loses power completely...

 

Good information!

 

how about hook ther blk/wht & blk/blu wire together @ the +side coil then you got it covered.(Some people do this but notice not many people do it.)

 

yes, Blk/wht wire is 12volt in the "ON" Position

Yes the Blk/Blu wire is 12volt ONLY in the "START" position.

 

Im not positive anymore if you loose the 12volts to the blk/wht wire when its in the START position.

 

I thought about mentioning this, but I thought it might be simpler just to wire the BW wire since my 72 wagon runs okay this way. Now that you know your not getting voltage when you crank, I'd hook up the black and blue wire like Hainz says. The black and blue wire is a special circuit to run higher voltage to your coil when cranking (resistor bypass if you have one).

 

Like I said, mine works, but it won't fire while your cranking. It usually only takes one or two engine revolutions to fire, but I've been meaning to change it anyway. I didn't know if that was because of the way the ignition switch works, or if it was just voltage drop from starter draw. Apperently it's just the way the ignition switch works. I was plan to go back to stock coil and resistor setup to fix this.

 

Anyway, never mind that for now, just do what Hainz recommends:lol: His advise got mine running too.

[jonesy510]

haha yea i will try that now... well today sometime :) .. damn i hate finals..... if i havent yet i would like to give a big thanks to everyone here on ratsun you guys are awesome...even tho i havent got my car running you guys have helped so much :D

[72wagun]

When I put in my Pertronix, I got rid of my resistor, and went with a 3.0 ohm flame thrower coil. This means I have the same reduced voltage to my coil when I'm cranking, and just running the engine. When I noticed that it didn't fire while I was cranking, I thought it was because I didn't have the hotter spark during cranking. I also thought maybe the current draw from the starter was decreasing the voltage to the coil (apparently not true, but that was my theory:rolleyes:).

 

I was planning to switch back to a stock coil and resistor when I had some time to work on it again. Then when you said the blk/wht wire wasn't getting voltage while cranking, it occured to me that this was my only problem.

 

I added another tab to the pos. term. on the coil, and hooked up the blk/blu wire too. Here's what it looks like now. It barely gets one rev before it starts now.

[jonesy510]

ya i put the blu/black wire on and now i got power to the coil :) and at all the times but i havent checkd for spark yet. i plan to do that soon

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK i cked last night on my 510

 

I was using a test light.

BLK/Wht wire has 12volts "ON" and when I went to start the test light was ON but dimmer. so power is still there

 

Blk/Blu wire is 12votls in START only.

[ggzilla]

When removing (or bypassing) the Ballast resistor, connect BOTH wires to the new coil + terminal. Then you get juice whether in Start or Ign.

[jonesy510]

ya thanx guys :) but now ... still no spark :( i have power all the time to the coil by adding both wires on. im suppose to have a guy come look at it this weekend but he probably will b busy getting drunk :lol:.. time to go back to testing everything :)

[jonesy510]

so i put a new matchbox and still nothing...

[yello620]

I am new to this thread, just read the whole thing. Sure seems like there might be something else going on here.

 

What are you doing to check for spark?

 

What do your spark plugs look like? How old are they? Brand? Part#?

 

Does you distributor have a ground wire going from its body to the motor?

[jonesy510]

so i got the goon to start and went back to the point dizzy but i cant adjust the timing enough with the dizzy so any ideas??

[yello620]

So you put the points dizzy back in and now it runs, but you cant adjust you timing far enough?

 

Have you verified the location of your distributor drive spindle to be at 11:28?

 

Have you verified the crank timing marks to the cam timing marks?

 

Have you watched the HAINZ video?