She's running!

[zed]

After many months of preparation and work on my L18, got her started tonight, and went for a drive. Very cool! I put much time and thought into this motor - wanted a high compression motor...:

• bore - 86mm
  
• stroke - 78mm
  
• head gasket bore - 86.5mm (Payen)
  
• compressed head gasket thickness - 1mm
  
• combustion chamber volume - 38cc (peanut head V912)
  
• piston dish - 0 (L28 flat tops!)
  
• deck clearance + 0.25mm (.010") out the block
  

Compression:11.36:1

I had the head skimmed .020", and the block decked .025". Squish clearance (between head and piston at TDC) is 0.030"!

I checked the head and valve clearances with solder wire before I put the head back on.

Running ok on 95 gas. No sign of knock...yet.

Only problem is, I can't bring myself to open her up like the manual says, to run the rings in...

thanks for all the advice I got on Ratsun - and Hainz for the CD's he sent me.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Only problem is, I can't bring myself to open her up like the manual says, to run the rings in???????

 

what you mean by that run the rings in??????

 

Fuck it drive it like you stole it. if its going to break its gonna break anyways.

 

 

maybe ck the valve lash after a while and just make sure the intake to head stays tight after a few days of running. Ck for oil leaks , Ck for temp and your pretty much done.

 

Its a great feeling to hear a motor you timed up and starts right up.

 

You ever figure the timming chain being off.??? You just up one tooth and the Cam marks came out ok later?

 

 

Ps get a couple spare head gaskets since you have higher than normal compression, might not last as long.

and front cover gaskets

Edited May 13, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)

[Wharf Rat]

Run it hard soon to seat them rings in before you lose the crosshatch in your hone job.

 

Feels good, this your first engine ?

 

Congrats :D

[lynchfourtwenty]

Only problem is, I can't bring myself to open her up like the manual says, to run the rings in???????

 

what you mean by that run the rings in??????

 

Fuck it drive it like you stole it. if its going to break its gonna break anyways.

 

 

maybe ck the valve lash after a while and just make sure the intake to head stays tight after a few days of running. Ck for oil leaks , Ck for temp and your pretty much done.

 

Its a great feeling to hear a motor you timed up and starts right up.

 

You ever figure the timming chain being off.??? You just up one tooth and the Cam marks came out ok later?

 

 

Ps get a couple spare head gaskets since you have higher than normal compression, might not last as long.

and front cover gaskets

 

 

ya dude u need to brake the engine in big time let her rip :)

 

on top of all the stuff hainz mentioned, i also reccomend an oil pressure gauge.. mines saved me twice.. :)

[zed]

I've got a VDO oil pressure gauge along with the OE gauge - running 4 bar all the time now.

Did a quick compression test today:

• 1 - 1400 kpa / 203psi
  
• 2 - 1400 kpa
  
• 3 - 1390kpa
  
• 4 - 1400 kpa
  

before I did the rebuild the pressures were all around 1200 kpa / 175psi

got to wonder how long the head gasket will hold... but man she goes alright

Edited May 15, 2009 by zed

[DISLEXICDIME]

get a nismo head gasket your l18 is very similar to mine i need to get a nismo head gasket also. what carbs and cam are you running i am running a 480/280 cam and a set of su's . boy this thing is a kick in the pants to drive. lol

did you port the head?

when i broke my engine in i took it for a 2 hour drift run lol it was so much fun.(i had cityhunter follow me in case it broke down).

 

read this

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Edited May 15, 2009 by DISLEXICDIME

[banzai510(hainz)]

Dislexicdime

That link is too much reading.

 

Engine break in info:

Drive it like you stole it, for a 30/45mins min!!!!!!

[DISLEXICDIME]

yah that's what it says it just explains why you need to drive it like you stole it. that way you feel better when you beat on it a bit

[datzenmike]

Do not run it at steady speed.

DO NOT lug the motor at low speeds.

Do not red line it either. Keep under 4,500 RPMs for a while.

To seat the rings they need to be thrust against the cylinder walls... hard! So get out on an open road in 4th and run it from 40 to 60 MPH full throttle then let slow down to 40 and repeat. The slow down is important to draw oil up to lube and clean the rings. Do this 20 times. Keep an eye on the temp and oil pressure.

Driving around town is unavoidable so keep the revs up and change gears often up and down. Stop and go is good for it.

A day or two should do it, change oil and filter, check valve clearance and head bolt torque.

For the first 250 miles drive it with lots of gear changes and try to avoid long highway trips at constant speed. After that it should be well broken in and you can just drive it.

[imtb]

Sounds exciting. I am rebuilding my first L20B .040 over, A87 peanut head, 490/290 cam. L18 4.3cc dish. Looking for around 9.9 cr. So far I have crank in with new bearings and installed the pistons last night with total seal rings. I used a dingle berry hone. and it feels smooth and tight....

 

Tonight I am doing. installing the head and going to try and check the cam timing.

 

Does it make a differnce when I put the front cover on and install the dizzy shaft and oil pump. I was going to do this after I have the cam timed.

[banzai510(hainz)]

imtb

Does it make a differnce when I put the front cover on and install the dizzy shaft and oil pump. I was going to do this after I have the cam timed

 

what you you mean by this statment??????????

 

just have the Head close to TDC (Cam dowl is in the 12o clock position

have block close to TDC

and if you have a Jap chain Put the BRIGHT link on the dimplles on the sprocket ,Thats pretty much it.the Brite Link change will self align it up for you.

I myself would use #2 on Cam spocket, maybe even #3 but I suggest you contack Defdes on here or the 510realm as he is running this cam on a L16 I believe. if you want to degree this cam which I DONT KNOW HOW TO DO. You of coase can gently put the front cover back(anytime w/o the gaskets) on to get timming mark indications or use the timming marks.

Rememer the brite links are for initial set up. But once you start turning the motor the link will not come back on those dimples for a while so youll base everything on CRANK ZERO notch on the pully

 

 

dial crank back to ZERO when you know cam timming is correct.

 

oil pump you install last,test fit a couple times so you have it come out in that 11/28 position. fill up with thick oil then reinstall. Spindal will be installed at the 11/28 postion. now hopefully youl put the distributor that you had before back in and where it locks down YOU will assign this as #1 plug wire and go 1 3 4 2 Couter clockwise fire order.

 

 

I say always use the stuff you know you had running first before getting other people junk carbs ignitions ectt otherwise you wont know what to fix first.

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.guba.com/general/search?query=hainz&set=5&x=0&y=0

Edited May 15, 2009 by banzai510(hainz)