Steering Dead spot. Make it go away!

[compression]

My 610 has about 15 degrees of steering deadness when I am driving in a straight line. I can move the wheel back and forth and the car does not even notice.

How do I get rid of the dead spot?

The car has all new tie-rod ends. I am suspecting something internal in the steering box. I already adjusted the little screw on the box, but that didnt really do anything.

What is the best way to "refresh" a steering box?

[Bleach]

check that idler arm. That's what fixed this issue on a 620 I had. I replaced it with a new one and the steering was very solid.

[compression]

what about the idler arm in particular?

It is pressed on to the steering box out-put shaft pretty solidly.

more info into what problem you found could help. thanks!

[slodat]

The arm on the steering box output shaft is the pitman arm. The idler arm is its counterpart on the opposite side of the car. They wear out..

[compression]

right, right. my bad.

The idler arm is new, with delrin bushings. So I dont think the slop is coming from there.

All my ball joints/tie rod ends are new also.

[Bleach]

Idler arms don't take bushings.

 

This is a 280ZX idler arm

 

I can't find that part available for the 610 online

[N0RCALDIME]

poop

[datzenmike]

This can be caused by several things, one of them is a worn steering component like a tie rod end or idler arm. Another could be a suspension component like a ball joint even a loose rim. Never assume it's the box although it will wear and add some slop.

 

The 620 steering box has a 19:1 ratio, I assume the cars would be similar. This means that for every 1/4" of slack in a steering component, there will be 4 3/4" of steering wheel play. Add all the slack up and multiply by 19 and you can get a huge amount... plus any slack in the box itself.

 

Raise the front end clear of the ground and push and pull on all steering and suspension components looking for ANY damage, looseness, play or slackness. Identify these parts and get them replaced.

 

Now the steering box.... have someone gently turn it back and forth through the 'loose ' area and watch that the Pitman arm does not move. If it doesn't then there is either too much clearance or there is wear in the center where where most of the driving is done anyway. Not sure how the 610 box is but there is likely a bolt on top possibly with a slot for a screwdriver and a lock nut to hold any adjustment. Loosen the lock nut several turns and turn the center bolt (or screw) down (maybe up) to reduce gear clearance. With wheels raised off the ground... turn wheel from lock to lock... there should be absolutely NO binding or tight spots! If there is, then open up the clearance and try again. Remember that the straight ahead position will have the most wear and clearance so if you remove all the slack there, it will likely be too tight on the non worn areas to either side. When you have as much slop removed as you safely can, tighten the lock nut while holding the center screw and test for tight spots through the full turning range.

Edited April 21, 2009 by datzenmike

[compression]

The brown things are the bushings. Stock they are rubber. I removed the stock ones (burned them out with a propane torch) and installed a delrin kit from Experimental engineering (Carter Boad? I think is who I bought them from). They install in place where the rubber was for absolutely zero play (except rotational of course).

It is the same idler arm as a 510.

 

 

Idler arms don't take bushings.

 

This is a 280ZX idler arm

 

 

I can't find that part available for the 610 online

[compression]

Thanks for the input mike. I have a feeling it is internal in the box since all the external parts are new.

I will have to have someone jiggle the steering wheel while I watch the box. thanks for all the tips.

 

The car darts in and out of ruts pretty bad with the dead spot in the steering...

 

 

 

This can be caused by several things, one of them is a worn steering component like a tie rod end or idler arm. Another could be a suspension component like a ball joint even a loose rim. Never assume it's the box although it will wear and add some slop.

 

The 620 steering box has a 19:1 ratio, I assume the cars would be similar. This means that for every 1/4" of slack in a steering component, there will be 4 3/4" of steering wheel play. Add all the slack up and multiply by 19 and you can get a huge amount... plus any slack in the box itself.

 

Raise the front end clear of the ground and push and pull on all steering and suspension components looking for ANY damage, looseness, play or slackness. Identify these parts and get them replaced.

 

Now the steering box.... have someone gently turn it back and forth through the 'loose ' area and watch that the Pitman arm does not move. If it doesn't then there is either too much clearance or there is wear in the center where where most of the driving is done anyway. Not sure how the 610 box is but there is likely a bolt on top possibly with a slot for a screwdriver and a lock nut to hold any adjustment. Loosen the lock nut several turns and turn the center bolt (or screw) down (maybe up) to reduce gear clearance. With wheels raised off the ground... turn wheel from lock to lock... there should be absolutely NO binding or tight spots! If there is, then open up the clearance and try again. Remember that the straight ahead position will have the most wear and clearance so if you remove all the slack there, it will likely be too tight on the non worn areas to either side. When you have as much slop removed as you safely can, tighten the lock nut while holding the center screw and test for tight spots through the full turning range.

[philip1]

if the box is done for hunt down a B-210 box they have the quickest ratio of the stock boxes I had one on my 510, Definitely worth the hunt.

[Wharf Rat]

Yes, there is nothing better then a tight box :D

 

No slop is nice :rolleyes:

[ggzilla]

The stock Datsun idler arm bushings are not rubber but a harder material, for what it's worth.

 

For the steering gearbox, the only thing you can do is properly tighten the adjuster -- do not torque it, it must be free. See my instructions with photos: Steering Gearbox Adjustment. The 610 gearbox is nearly identical.