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how do i make a wagon sticky


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i dont care if i missed some info and i got dumb questions.

this is whats up i just what ideas . ive got my wagon engine whare i want it for now and its a lot of fun. my new delemas one im completely wet behind the ears on. suspention. and because its a wagon im finding im a bit limited.

 

so im not rich but i put as much as i can into my wagon, but hypatheticly or if by expieriance. whare do i even begin.

 

my goal is really keep her as low as it is and make her stick corners as best as can. for some reason i dont never what to go to fast untill i see some cool curves or turns. but ol girl not ready shes not sticky enough.

 

so what would you do if you were ploting out a wagons suspention ?

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When talking suspension, realize that changing one thing ... affects all things. All suspension changes should be coordinated with a thought to their collective effect overall. Just like a band... all instruments have to be in tune and playing together to make music.

 

Biggest bang for the buck to bring back the original handling and maybe even add to the handling, is to replace the shocks and upgrade the struts. While doing the struts, combine it with the following:

 

Lower the center of gravity by a couple of inches... I said a couple. The car will be less 'tippy' in turns. Lower front and back. Maybe a bit more in the back just to get it to sit level with the front. A spacer can be sandwiched between the rear leaf spring and the axle to lower the back. Do not remove leaves to lower. This removes valuable stiffness and leads to bottoming out during 'spirited driving'. Front struts... I'll leave the how to, to someone else on this.

 

Stiffen the suspension. Stiffer rate springs can be substituted to control body movement on hard cornering. Front coil springs can have a coil cut out to lower and stiffen them. Too stiff in the rear/ light in the front can add to understeer. To soft in the rear/stiff in the front can add to the oversteer.

 

Adding a sway bar (front or back) or replacing it with a stiffer one will help prevent the car from feeling like it's going to tip over on its side in a hard turn. Helps keep the car level in a turn.

 

Next to shocks, tires have the biggest positive or negative effect on handling. No amount of suspension work can make up for crappy tires. Tires are an integral part of your suspension.

 

It bares stating here that part of handling is also being able to shed excess speed quickly and safely, so good brakes are a must, excellent brakes are even better. Good tires will allow you to use better brakes to good effect.

 

Remember changing one thing... changes all. It all has to work together in harmony.

Edited by datzenmike
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Good tires are the first step in getting a car to handle well. A car can have the super wiz bang suspension, but without good tires, it will not handle well. Another plus of good tires is they have a way of amplifying the really bad points of a suspension, which allows you to address the main problems.

 

So yeah, start with a good set of tires.

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ive been a wreck over wheels and i have been looking but i have to save for the rims i want so i will get the tires to match. i wish i could find some used pana's there the best but not the best price. when i find the right price oooo wee.

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if your car has not been restored any I would suggest replacing bushings as well as tie rods and other worn out suspension parts. figure the car is so old the parts are worn out and tired. changing springs and shocks will help a lot and of course a good set of wheels and tires will help. also don't lower a wagon low. 2" max as you will have issues if you go lower. believe me not worth going lower. there has been no correlation or at least I know of that lower is always better.

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evern though i just replaced a lot of my front 280zx breakes, i have a pull to the right slight ly when driving, worse when i hit the breakes, and worst when i breake when i was waited down helping my bro move. though its always a bit random. no matter what im dooing it dont do it every time. but im wondering if its something in my suspention has any one had this problem before? like i said ive been working on the breakes here and there new rotors,pads, and caliper on right side because a pin was jamed in . then 2 days ago i had a breake hose blow on that breake , replaced it and now a little worse pull so maby it is the breake. any ideas?

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  • 2 weeks later...

two issues two answers.....

 

First:

Suspension:

On a wagon if you are not going to be racing the car just add the 1" front bar.

In the rear add 1 leaf to the spring pack inverted to de-arch and stiffen the pack new shocks all round and good bushings. Simple and effective.

 

Second:

Brakes:

There are several causes of brake pull and not all involve the front brakes. Lets start with the front... Make sure everything is put together correctly. It may be the left caliper is not functioning at all or poorly at least. bleed the system until you are sick of bleeding (it makes a difference)

 

Now have you looked at the rear brakes if they are not adjusted correctly they will cause the car to pull to one side.

 

Find an empty road with lots of run off and do a lock up test you will probably find one or more brakes is not functioning

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not to take away from the original post, but brakes are kinda somthing i do alot of. i would suggest replacing everything in pairs, why replace 1 caliper when the other is the same age? especially hoses, blocked hoses i see alot and cause all sorts of problems. definately make sure rear brakes are adjusted correctly. make sure there isnt any contaminated friction material (pads or shoes) real common cause of pull too. yes alignment components that are severely worn can cause a "brake pull" too, instant camber/caster/toe change can cause all sorts of interesting drivablity issues.

Edited by odmanjohnson
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different wheels or same wheels? has it been aligned lately ? what kind of wear did your old tires have? could be an alignment issue or it could have been a tire issue, perhaps a combination especially if different/wider wheels-more offset wheels were put on. if it hasnt been aligned lately that would be a good starting point. then if it still pulls you'll know to look twards tires (that is if the alignment tech does more than adjust toe)

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Its the same wheels, and the driver side tire had more where on the inside than out.

 

The thing is some one hit a curb idk some previouse owner and tore the spot where the TC rod bolts to the fram they tore the whole cup but i had a guy cut it out line it up strait and weld in a whole new cup.

 

He said he didnt have the proper equiptment to alighn the car, other than with a tape by eye and every one i ask says they have no adjustability or they cant do datsuns

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