What The F%*#

[lynchfourtwenty]

glad we could help man :) thats what we're here for

[Phlebmaster]

what head do you have? look on the spark plug side near the front. Should say something like A87?

[lynchfourtwenty]

thats no stinkin a87

http://olddatsuns.com/html/tech/head_ID_2.htm

thats a a87..

 

oh an the one on MY truck is too :fu:

[Andy]

thats no stinkin a87

http://olddatsuns.com/html/tech/head_ID_2.htm

thats a a87..

 

oh an the one on MY truck is too :fu:

 

I saw L4

[Andy]

It' a 21C:blink:

[lynchfourtwenty]

look on the passenger side of head near the front just below that fuel pump block off plate by the #1 spark plug

[lynchfourtwenty]

Casting # Chamber type Description

 

A87 open or closed found on many L-18 and L-20B's. The "domestic" version usually came with open chambers. Many of the "used Japanese import" engines came with the peanut version of this head. Large quantities of these used engines were imported in the 80's, so the peanut version is fairly common. These heads usually have 1.25" intake ports and square exhaust ports. 1.65" intake valves. Exhaust valves can be 1.38" or 1.30"

 

W53 closed (with some exceptions) This head is from the Japanese market. Some of these castings are for factory fuel injected engines and have notches in the intake ports to accommodate injectors. 1.25" intake ports and square exhaust ports. 1.65" intake valves and 1.38" exhaust valves.

 

219

closed The true SSS head from imported used engines or ordered from the Datsun comp. catalog. Later versions could be ordered from the catalog with a V912 casting. 1.50" intake ports, square exhaust ports. 1.65" intake valves and 1.38" exhaust. These are hard to find. Any of the other closed chamber heads can be "converted' to this design by simply opening up the intake port to 1.50" (if that's desired) Some of these heads are marked "A87" on the side, but have "219" cast at the front of the head, just below the timing chain inspection plate.

 

210

(some have no number)

open (with rare exceptions) This is the head that came stock on the 510. Tiny 1.125" intake ports, square exhaust ports. 1.50" intake valves and 1.30" exhaust valves. There have been variations reported on the valve sizes. This head is believed to be originally designed for the L-13, and engine never imported to the U.S. I know of one that has the peanut (closed) chamber with 37cc displacement. The earliest versions had more of a "semi-open" chamber design but later examples were the open chamber design. These heads are usually avoided on performance applications.

 

U67 open The stock cylinder head for many L-20B's. 1.375" intake ports, square exhaust ports. 1.65" intake and 1.38" exhaust valves.

 

U60 open Identical to the U67 head, this number has been found on very early L-20B's. It seems to be fairly rare.

W58

 

W58

open(with rare exceptions) This is the L-20B smog head usually found on '77 and later engines. 1.375" intake ports with ROUND exhaust ports. These exhaust ports have steel liners that help burn off emissions. I know of one of these castings that has closed chambers. These heads don't flow well and are avoided for high-performance applications.

 

N56 open(?) This is an emissions head that appears to be identical to the W58 casting.

The combustion chamber design has not been verified yet, but is probably open.

 

thats a head list, so look for those numbers by the #1 spark plug

Edited March 6, 2009 by lynchfourtwenty

[]2eDeYe]

It' a 21C:blink:

 

That would be a 210 head :mellow:

[Andy]

210 is that any good ?? The block has 210 stamp on it

[lynchfourtwenty]

thats an l16 isnt it? so the 210 head would be stock for the engine.. it isnt a performance head by any means but it will get the job done.. did you do a compression check before u tore it apart?

[Andy]

thats an l16 isnt it? so the 210 head would be stock for the engine.. it isnt a performance head by any means but it will get the job done.. did you do a compression check before u tore it apart?

 

Ya a shad tree test,if i had 300 bucks i would have rebuilt the head.The compression was weak mainly the back cyc's.

 

Shad Tree Test

1.open beer and slam

2.remove 1st plug

3.slam another beer

4.put thumb on plug hole(not in it) roa,roa,roatate hopefully the air pushes your thumb off.

5.Slam again

6.repeat step 4

7.More beer

8.repeat step 4 2 more times

9.Damit don't forget the beer

[lynchfourtwenty]

sounds about right but for 10-20 bux u can get a compression tester

[]2eDeYe]

Yep, psi numbers beats rule of thumb :D

[Andy]

2eDeYe;138200'']Yep, psi numbers beats rule of thumb :D

 

Ya,your right but i did not have it. So you do what can.

I will be retesting that's for sure

Hey i have never messed with a hitaich carb info would be great

[lynchfourtwenty]

lol now your beyond me there, i've got a weber on mine, came on it.. so never had to deal with the stock carbs

[mike]

http://www.olddatsuns.com//data/Hitachi_Carb_DCH_DCP_DRJ340.pdf

 

If youre familiar with old domestic carbs (thermoquads/carters/q-jets) you should be able to rebuild this one no problem.

Check the throttle shaft first to make sure there is no play. Also, try taking the top off and spraying out all the jets and orifices to make sure theyre not clogged first. If it ran good before dont fuck with any of the adjustments just clean it up inside and out. If youre lucky you can just put it back together and you wont need to install a carb kit/gaskets but it would be a good idea to have one on hand just dont open it until you need it.

If there is play in the throttle shaft put the carb in the spare parts bin and either find a weber or another hitachi. If you do find a weber the stock linkage off the hitachi will work on the weber.

Im sure someone will chime in with more info if you need it. Good luck.

[Andy]

Mike-chances are i am going to get a weber and keep the Hitaich for learing

 

So to day i got everything back to together,It's cold here to day and i broke a water pump bolt! that was a bitch to get out.:mad:

Any ways i can not get betsie to start she cranks over but won't start. So i went to see a guy that has a L16 in a 1600

Did what he said and i got back fire but not a start,he said swap 1 w/2 and 3 w/4 got my back fire,i've played with the dizzy all damn day try to avoid removing the oil pump and reseting.

Is there something else that can be done that i missed????:blink:

[Buzzbomb]

http://www.olddatsuns.com//data/Hitachi_Carb_DCH_DCP_DRJ340.pdf

 

If youre familiar with old domestic carbs (thermoquads/carters/q-jets) you should be able to rebuild this one no problem.

 

That's good to know..You always hear horror stories about Hitachi carbs and how difficult they are to rebuild. I've rebuilt numerous Qjets, and those aren't exactly a cake walk with small parts. Holley is a different story :)

 

I'm in sort of the same boat as you, Andy. I'm doing a headgasket on my truck, but without taking the front cover off. Did you watch Hainz's video? Are you sure your cam alignment marks are right? Hainz's video will show you exactly how to do mount the oil pump and distributor so it all lines up right, and also how to make sure the chain/sprocket are in proper alignment.. Maybe you're just a little off with the ignition timing and if you move the dist. a little, it will fire.

Edited March 7, 2009 by Buzzbomb

[Andy]

That's good to know..You always hear horror stories about Hitachi carbs and how difficult they are to rebuild. I've rebuilt numerous Qjets, and those aren't exactly a cake walk with small parts. Holley is a different story :)

 

I'm in sort of the same boat as you, Andy. I'm doing a headgasket on my truck. Did you watch Hainz's video? Are you sure your cam alignment marks are right? Hainz's video will show you exactly how to do mount the oil pump and distributor so it all lines up right, and also how to make sure the chain/sprocket are in proper alignment..

 

You bet i would not have touched it without watching Hainz's vid.Yes i got everything lined up but i miss something or just didn't get the oil pump in the right way.tomorrow i will "do the oil pump " put it in,take it out,put it in:lol:

[lynchfourtwenty]

yea timing is critical for sure, if you have to set the engine back to TDC on compression stroke put the links and gear where they need to be, jus start fresh if your gonna remove the front case again anyways.. better safe then sorry.. then when u do all that an u goto put the dizzy back in make sure its in that 11:28 position or whatever.. plus check your points an stuff, ALSO!!! adjust your valves!! very simple..

[Buzzbomb]

I can't quite remember from Hainz's vid, but when the oil pump drive is at 11:28, the engine is at TDC, right? So that means the ignition timing is at 0, which might eliminate advanced timing as the culprit? Advanced timing can cause backfires, IIRC.

 

I think Lynch might be right when he says the valves may be off or the points might not be set right. Then again, if it was running before you took it apart, it has to be something you did to it during this process..I'd check that there was gas in the carb and that the plugs weren't fouled too. I know when I get mine all buttoned up, I'll need to get some gas to the carb via cranking because I was checking the linkage and choke while the manifold was off the engine and basically drained the float bowl.

Edited March 7, 2009 by Buzzbomb

[Andy]

It was cold today so i didn't do shit,

Ok the vales are good,gas in carb and fuel pumping.

The dizzy is set at 11:28 and everything is lined upBUT.

Watch the vid again a listen to what is said about 1,2,3 settings.Look at pic and you will see that i have my timing set on 3.Witch means i have to reset:blink:

FUCKING JOY

[Buzzbomb]

It was cold today so i didn't do shit,

Ok the vales are good,gas in carb and fuel pumping.

The dizzy is set at 11:28 and everything is lined upBUT.

Watch the vid again a listen to what is said about 1,2,3 settings.Look at pic and you will see that i have my timing set on 3.Witch means i have to reset:blink:

FUCKING JOY

 

Are you talking about the cam sprocket? If so, you don't have take the whole shebang apart just to change the sprocket position...You can either make a wooden wedge to hold up the chain/lock it in position so the tensioner doesn't pop out, OR you can go to Checker and get one of these:

 

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PBI&MfrPartNumber=648831

 

It is worth the wait if they have to order it. I used it, and it seemed to work awesome.

 

If you are SURE that the link on the crank sprocket was set right, I personally don't see any reason to tear it all apart. If you can use a wedge to hold the chain, try to get someone to help you when you change the sprocket. They can just put pressure on the stuffer while you thread the chain on in the front cover opening and push it back on the cam dowel. That's what I did and I had the chain and sprocket back on the cam in real short order.

Edited March 8, 2009 by Buzzbomb

[Andy]

Your right buzzbomb,i did not tear it down put i do need to change the pos. and i have kids that will hold the chain up.and the dizzy is in need of a tune up.

Hey the guy with the parts A FLAKE.

I found a 70,71 PL521 and a ???? 510 i'm interested in the 521,the 510 is red w/tan int.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If its timmed to 1 2 or 3 it will still start and run.

 

Remember its 1 3 4 2 Counter clockwise fire order.

 

if Motor is timmed as it lookes like it. and the distributor is timmed correctly when you lcok down the dizzy and is pointing to #1 spark plug it should fire.

 

The dizzy being 0 or 10DBTDC is minute as I alwasy have is slightly loose anyways befoe start up for slight adjustability.

 

I would make sure the Valave lash is OK.

 

The look at spark? Is is sparking? at all?

 

If there is Gas and compression and it sparks. It will go BANG