dat521gatherer

Did he get pulled over for a infraction or something or did they just run the plates for the hell of it being behind a old import or did they actually recognized it as being on there hot list?

I am very pleased that you got your 521 back and great tip on the insurance. There needs to be a stolen Datsun sticky somewhere. How am I supposed to know how many and from what area Datsuns without digging deep in the general section. I could have been keeping an eye out for this but didn't know to look. Sightings thread meets missing Datsuns sticky. So I know of a 510 wagon very nice looking with shaved handles down the street from me parked in front of a house that is boarded up by the city and it's been sitting there for many many months. I know ask the neighbor right? Then you might give the guy a heads up and it gets moved. Calling in kinda seems like over kill if it's not stolen. Give me a stolen Datsun sticky so I can at least keep a look out for forum members rides. Maybe I'll just post a pic of it in the sitings thread. Sorry for the attempted thread jack Jammin.

Can someone post a pic of the 320 that was in the ad. This read is great and all but the listing is now gone.

Yeah that was kick ass. I had 4 rides there. Hehe. I just need more drivers.

Nice timming.

Welcome to Ratsun mate. Can't wait to see your ute.

Thanks Tristin. Yeah I really wanted tiny screws but I was using mt lunch break at work and had work with what I had which was one small drill bit. On my next one I'll take my time. Thanks Mike. Yes simple and stock is what I was going for. No need for over kill. Thanks Tendril. Oh how I have wanted a 411 cluster with the chrome around the fuel and temp gauges out of a 411. Yes the mother board is the same. Good lookin out mike.

Oh goody I love surprises.

While your in there take some orange testers paint and brighten up your faded gauge needles. I didn't plan on that like a dumb shit.

I just put some leds in my cluster to brighten it up. It made a big difference and I kept the stock look. The small write up I did.http://community.ratsun.net/topic/60622-how-to-brighten-your-521-green-gauge-lights-with-leds/

Yes I know there is already a thread on this but I'm doing it a bit differently and so I don't want to thread jack or add to the cluster fuck on the other thread. No offense. That's the thread the pushed me to do this which is a great idea. This is just for the factory green illumination. I don't see any reason to put leds in the blinker, high beam, oil and ignition light sockets. This is what I used from superbrightleds.com. 4 bulbs wled-nw5 natural white at $3.94 each after tax $18.75 http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/199/ Home page, led car bulbs, miniature wedge base bulbs, 194 led bulbs, 5 led wide angle wedge base, wled-nw5 All work can be done from the front to remove the cluster except disconnecting the speedo cable. You do not need to lower the steering column. 1. Reach behind the cluster and unscrew the speedometer cable 2. Remove the 2 bottom screws on the black beauty ring and pull it straight down off the clips. 3. Remove the 2 screws in the top 2 corners of the cluster. 4. Lean the cluster forward and disconnect the round wire harness plug 5. Cluster is out. 6. Separate cluster in half by removing 2 end brackets and four other screws 7. Remove speedometer, temp and fuel gauge 8. Drill holes in the green plastic dome ears where the dimples are then pry up gently as the 2 corner ones have a small amount of brown glue holding them down. 9. Scrape off the white paint from the domes using a box knife or similar. 10. Wipe off the rest of the paint residue with goof off. Careful goof off melts plastic and will make it foggy. 11. Reattach lenses. I wanted to use screws but couldn't find any small enough so I chopped off some nails and used a dab of glue on each one. 12. Reassemble PICS!! You can see the dimples that line up your drill bit perfectly. I don't know what size I used. Paint scrapped off and cleaned up. My bulbs sockets were not wedge style they were bayonet so I had to get some wedge bases from my stash pile. I am very happy how the stock color and brightness that came out.

You got it.

It's not necessarily the car but who owned it that makes this car sexy to me. Any metal heads or rockers wish to guess who's it is. He passed 30+ years ago and his family just recently pushed it into the garage after being covered by a tarp all these years.

Currently the 2 main things to be aware of on a 521 is that the front inner wheel bearings are no longer available and neither are the heater hoses. Both can be remedied in other ways though. Windshields are hard to find.

While I'm under there... Must be the choke cable rattling on the body. Some rubber hose should teach it a lesson. I cant stand things rattling.

Maybe SuperBrightLEDs.com makes a bulb for the dome light.

It's been a while. Today I put some door jamb dome light switches in. The dome light isn't very bright but when it's pitch black out it does get the job done. These were a dealer installed option but I've never actually seen a 521 have them except mine. Here are the parts I used. One newer style dome light with the extra ground wire which I will use to attach my wires that go to the switches. I f you don't want to buy the newer style you'll have to solder something together to attach your switch ground wires. I first removed the package tray, kick panels, scuff plates. Then I ran some temporary wires to fish the main wires coming down from the pillar. I used a red wire on the left side cause I ran out of black. The hardest part is getting the wire to go down the inside of the pillar around where the sun visors mount. You have to be patient and good at fishing wires. One red wire to the left driver switch and one black wire to the left passenger switch put together. Done. Total time took me about a hour.

I took apart the wiper squirter motor and freed it up and unclogged the hard metal lines with a strand of copper wire. Works great now. Today it drove real nice with the fuel level in the center of the glass eye.

I typed that thinking plate then just added plate after shaft.

I'll check the shaft or bearing plate if I can but if you look at the holes in this pic you can see the room for adjustment.

The wires are new. The plugs look like number 4 is fouled. The carb fuel level is super high. I cant find any vacuum leaks. It seems like it's hitting on all four but at this point it's hard to tell. It wont idle. There is a random puff/cloud of white smoke that comes out going down the road like spyhunters smoke screen then it's gone. I screwed in my compression tester and I got 145 145 168 125. That bothers me. The book says they should be 190 something. That seems high. So i'm thinking a oil control problem. Blown head gasket or flooding out carb.

So I got out my timing light and it looked like #4 wasn't firing. I looked under the cap and it was pretty bad so I replaced it last night. While I was in there I looked at the 4 magnet gaps and noticed that #4 was rubbing to the point that wearing down the post I have seen this before on electric dizzys. I took it off to un-seize the magnet from the whatever you call it and basically destroyed it. When they are not stuck you can loosen the three screws and adjust it but not by much. This is what I ended up with. Super glue does not work for gluing magnets back together especially when they are trying to push each other away. So I taped it up ratsun style. I dont suppose I can just buy that part from nissan. The tap worked. Trimmed. Yeah I know it's about as sketchy as you've ever seen. But for now it works.

I didn't know you could get a weber with a anti-diesel valve. The b310 has had the carb rebuilt in 20xx? I 'll have to look. I do know when I bought the b310 the fuel level in the glass eye was close to being on the dot but now it's completely full.

I just looked and yep it was under there. It's a b310 but for some reason as I understand it they were marketed in the u.s as 210's Yes it was great deal. But the engine is going to be a headache I can tell .I want to keep the smog stuff but it makes it hard to diagnose or get to anything. I tore off the smog stuff on my 75 b210 and put a weber on it and no matter what I do to the timing or fuel mixture it always diesels.

Things to do include. Paint original plastic delridge license frame Done. found a original metal one. Paint rear cardboard tray where speakers go Done Paint grill Done Lube wiper linkage if I can get to it. Minor squeal. Trans needs replaced. Install clear napa fuel filter. Done Fix trunk leaks. Need window seal Detail under hood and door jambs, trunk. Done Bleed brakes. Light is on. Light is off Oh yeah I should get it running. After I fixed the tranny leak I drove it around for 15 minutes then it acted like it dropped a cylinder. :confused: