ddrum

so it doesnt matter? and i caught that also on silvolite. On summit the 9048s are cheaper, so i guess ill be buying those.

silvolite website

hard to seach they cahnged it around. call them for a vendor that sells as they dont sell direct

I got a set for 76 $ shipped about 5 years ago.

http://www.kb-silvol...v=Nissan&l=1952

 

9048 is what you want

what is the difference between 9048 and the 9071, my engine is out of a 1980 720 L20b, and my pistons look like the 9071, can i get 9048 instead? :confused:

If you go through the Z24 engine build thread I'm still not done with, you'll note there is a big problem with piston rings from all manufacturers these days. Half the time you put them in and they're too wide. I filed down .030 over rings to fit my .020 over bore for that very reason.

 

I still go by the Datsun bible specs: .004 for each inch of bore on the top ring, .003 on the second ring. Multiply those two and you'll have the desired end gap.

Not trying to thread jack but, the same thing has been happening to me i bought a set of std Hasting piston rings for my L20b and the ring gap is too wide, then i bought some Sealed power and they are a little tighter but not tight enough. And i dont know where to get .25mm over rings.

If you are underage no drinking? c'mon! :poke: :)

Cool, good to know thanks a lot datsunaholic and Datzenmike.

double post fail haha

they look different on each rod... L20b by the way

As i was taking off the old rod bearings from the piston rods, I found some wear on the rod oil hole. Has anyone seen this before? Is it common?

i tried this time with a .002 and it bearly went in, just the tip. can i call it good?

Yeah it only clears one side with the .004 one, but the book says .002 to .007. I'm going to take it to the machine shop and see what happens.

Yeah I'll double check it thanks a lot. :)

should i move it before torquing it down or after?

I'm starting to reassemble my l20b and I already checked the oil clearances using plastigage and everything is fine. I put the center main bearing cap and torque it to 40 ft lbs. I pushed the crankshaft forward and my filler Gage which starts at .004 inches, did go in. I pushed it back and the filler Gage didn't want to go in.

My brother recently rebuilt his Dodge 318 and the same thing happened when checking end play. Only one side cleared, but he said that was fine since everything was under standard specs on his engine. My crankshaft on the other hand, has been shaved .25mm only on the main bearings.

So my question is, does the crankshaft end play have to clear on both ends? or am i going to have to take it back to get machined?

Thanks, Erick

I also use for work, to bad the previous owner shaved everything! and took out one leaf from each leaf s ring .

^ that is badass!

I'm about to rebuild mine with new rings, main bearings, and rod bearings, but i also have a brand new rebuilt head, what would you all recommend? i was thinking just drive it normally and don't rev it to much since i don't have a tachometer. Then just change the oil after 500 miles.

Slap those 15s in the front dude! :)

Man that Datto took a beating! she looks like a cute chick though. B)

when you press the brakes it makes a popping sound right? and then the truck feels like the brakes are dragging? this happens to my truck and it is because of my wheel cylinders (cheap Oreilly's quality) . The small cylinder inside the wheel cylinder pops out when i hit the brakes hard and they kinda get stuck for a little while.

It's a Z20S block and pistons. Probably swapped to replace a blown Z20E motor. Thing is the flattop pistons are mated with a larger Z head on the Z20E. The Z20S used a smaller combustion chamber head to offset those dished pistons.

 

Matt the truck Z20 motor also used the flattops and long rods but also the smaller cc head from the car Z20S (A10) to achieve a 9 to 1 compression.

 

Z20E piston from 200sx

 

Z20S piston from A10

 

The Z20E, Z22 truck and Z24 heads are 57cc

The Z20S from the A10 and the Z20 used in the 720 are about 45cc.

what does that 34# on the piston mean? i just opened my 1980 L20b and the psitons have the same number on top.

I'm not a photographer myself, but I'm going to take a photography class next semester, and that is a very cool picture! :thumbup:

wow it looks sexy! :thumbup:

Any Updates?

Look at this on eBay:

 

Thermador Swamp Window Car Cooler

 

http://bit.ly/JvgExv

I live in the dry dessert of El Paso and was thinking about getting one for my 620 since it would be cheaper and much more easier than getting an original one. I think it might look pretty sic in my truck but, are they easy to take off? 'Im afraid if i get one it might get stolen.

Hell man, I still don't know how I do it. lol

 

 

In all seriousness, theres a guy down here parting out a '74 620 with FULL A/C components if you're interested. I'm sure you could adapt it over to a 720.

How much?