ddrum

I have an L20B with W58 peanut head, weber 32/36 on a L16 intake manifold and L16 headers and EI Dizzy and it runs real good. Not sure though how a a87 vs w58 head will compare as far as power goes, but i like my w58.

I used to have an (overhauled) L16 in my 620 and it was slow as shit, i could simply not keep up with traffic. I just swapped an overhauled L20b in a month ago, and man i do not regret a single thing. Torque is way better and i can overtake cars on the highway in 5th gear! :)

Too late... the locking of the idler is so that my steering wouldn't mess up right?

that tool worked great though.

cool, i will definitely try that Thanks!

I'm trying to remove the center-link only, and it came off the passenger side without a sweat. On the other hand, it seems to be stuck on the driver side and i have been hitting it with a hammer for over an hour. at this point i think i might be doing something wrong, so my question is can I remove the center link by itself or do I need to remove all the front suspension?

thanks, Erick

wow that cleaned up real good! ! :thumbup:

Miss bubbles we need more pics of truck meow!!!!!! :)

Wow, this thing is all over the news.

Moar oics!

same thing happened to me, no water in oil, but oil in the radiator and that was because my engine seized and left all the oil in the radiator hoses/ heater hoses. So when i put the new engine in it did overheat, and i thought i screwed the head but it turned out all that oil was from the last engine i had in it.

Those turbines look sic! awesome color too!! :thumbup:

Yeah i took it off and measured it and it was in fact a 225mm. Well the truck used to have an l16, but the engine seized so a i got this l20b to swap in, and when i got the l20b it only came with the flywheel since the truck had no transmission in it (junkyard).

Ill be putting everything back this next week so it should work.

Oh and it had the one on the left.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Erick

ok, now i just need to varify if i have the correct clutch collar, does anyone know if the one on the left is the correct one?

I did order it from nissan.

thanks again

ok it is the 225mm flywheel and 225mm clutch kit, its for a 79' 620. I guess it comes down to either the collar or did something wrong?

cool i will thanks

no, i have a 1980 l20b flywheel so 225 right? i ordered the collar from nissan dealership for a 79 620, im thinking maybe the pressure plate is bad out of the box?

ok i took a picture of both collars i have the one on the left is supposed to be for a l20b and the right for an l16 5 speed right?

Man am i confused, guess ill wait till tomorrow and see what is going on.

Thanks

Well today, i removed the fork boot and moved the clutch fork by hand to see what was going on inside the bell housing. it turns out that the release bearing is bearly touching the pressure plate when i push the fork all the way back and that is why my slave keeps popping out as Datzenmike said.

Weird thing is, the clutch kit is new and so is the clutch collar, tomorrow ill be dopping the tansmission and will inspect the cluth pressure plate.

can someone please put a picture of a 79 620 clutch collar?

thanks, Erick

yeah i can move the fork by hand, and honestly it doesn't feel very stiff, i guess ill have to drop the transmission and see what is going on?

Yeah it just pops out, I bought a new master cylinder and exchanged my slave cylinder for a new and will be changing them Friday. Hope it works this time if not I'll drop the tranny and see what's going on.

After getting another installed and bleed, push in clutch all the way. Then release pedal,quickly ck slave and see if it reterns all the way. Also try opening bleed screw and see if u have noticible pressure. No pressure, slave piston binding or hanging up. Pressure,master problem likely. In burstimg, what exactly do u mean? Blowing out piston or metal body cracking,ect.?

it is blowing out the piston and draining through the rubber, it pops out with pressure. like a burst. no craking

ddrum.... is it possible that you assembled the clutch arm without the release bearing or collar? Can you move the clutch arm back by hand?

clutch arm is the clutch fork right? if so yes i did install the collar to the clutch arm correctly with the clip retainer. yes i can move the clutch arm by hand. Could i have done something wrong?

I'll be trying that tomorrow and I'll let you guys know what happens.

thanks a lot for your input.

It was working fine, but that was 9 months ago before the engine seized, so it does sound like a bad master, I don't know what else it can be, so ill be trying that tomorrow hopefully.

thanks laecaon!

ok, so i just finished overhauling my l20b for my 620, put it in and it starts up amazing! :w00t:

Anyway, i decided to install/bleed the slave cylinder to take it for its first drive! and the cylinder exploded leaving fluid everywhere! So i bought a new one and the same thing happened. Got another one since i have lifetime warranty and same thing happened. Changed it one more time and same thing happened. I got under the truck and noticed that when someone pushes the clutch, the slave pushes the fork all the way back and when you let go off the clutch, the slave just gets stuck at the end of the fork not going back. That is why when i keep pumping the clutch, fluid just gets accumulated and makes the slave cylinder burst. :sneaky:

Could this be that the slave cylinders are bad out of the box? (Duralast) or that my clutch master is bad? or anything else? :confused:

the clutch is brand new for a 79 620 and i bought the release bearing collar from the dealership also for a 79 620.

Thanks, erick