Stupid_fast

They where $6 for three... Any nissan dealer usually carries the parts? Hmm, I might call. edit, More wires, these where bundled next to the wiper motor. One blue with weird end boot(choke?), blue/yellow, red/blue, red/black... Cant figure out what these go to. So I went to kragan, talked to the 240z owner there he traded back the alt for a new one. As I have time tell the fusible links arrive, I could not resist asking for a higher powered unit. So I got this 50amp(?) internally regulated 78 200sx alt. I read the dime quarterly article on it, and seems I can wire it in pretty easily. Only question I have is about correctly wiring the choke... DQ article said I need a 12v choke relay unit? Thanks!

^drifting? bwaha. Yo PPK, my bro just got a 280zx... And we both love it! I wonder if I can get it lower than yours. *gets out sawzall

Keep bumping the thread... It will become a legend, like the datsun 510 limo.

I didn't drain the oil, went fine. Sounds good, awesome advice!! edit, OK just finished priming the pump/oiling system. I used a Ratsun tool to get it done! Everything looks good, poored oil onto timing chain, oil was flowing properly, ect. Now I just gotta get that gasket ordered. Thank you all for the help!

Anyone know where I can find just an oil pump gasket? :( I already have a top end gasket set. Maybe I'll just order a full gasket set to have the spares!

Ok makes sense. Yeah, the new one has a jiggle valve! So I just pulled out the oil pump... And the damn gasket broke. :( Gotta check if anywhere local has one. I'm guessing its bad just to RTV silicon on top of broken gasket?

Ah, my head does NOT have those holes. So for the bypass - it is plugged off on my engine. So I just drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat? Sounds easy.

OK, sounds good. I will probably replace the cam with a more "hopped-up" one later down the road, for now a used one is great for breaking in the engine. Now to see how I'm going to attach my drill to the oil pump.. You sure I don't need to drain the oil? I'm going to drain most of it just to be safe. I don't like having an oil slick on my garage floor. Thanks.. at least I have something to do tonight!

I will buy one next time I get the money... I always have pics... Ratsun has trained me well. It looks used?!(can see the wear lines on the cam lobes) I took that when I was timing the dizzy. I (stupidly) filled up the oil, so right now I'm draining it out and priming the oil pump. I have to wait a few days for the fusible links to come in, and get a new alternator or rebuild my rebuild one so I have time to do the rest of this stuff. Thanks for all the great help. And uh, what connects here? My Datsun knew it was not hooked up properly so it shorted its own alternator... my god.... ITS ALIVE

I did not rebuild the engine!! I bought it this way from the p/o of my car, he bought it rebuilt before he gave it to me.

Engine was sitting maybe... 2 years? I dunno, its been sitting around a year since I got it. It turns smooth and easily with a wrench without oil, since I turned it to set to TDC for timing the dizzy.The starter is new, I was saying maybe turn it over for a few seconds at a time to get oil pressure up. most of the accessories where added on by me(dizzy, starter, alt, ect) Is the cam new? How can I tell? I thought idling a rebuild is bad for the ring sealing? So I just leave it for a 10-minute 1000-1200rpm warm-up? I already linked to that tech article about breaking in... Am gonna follow that break in method. I'm probably going to end up taking it on a good back road for lots of pulling/engine braking, ect. Its probably the best place to do it in my area.(freeways are always crowded...) I don't really have any way to check compression... The choke is electric ... still have to wire it.

Alright, I'll fill up the pump, remove the spark plug wires and leave the fuel out, turn it over a few times, wait for oil pressure to build, replace plug wires, fill up with fuel and warm up for break-in? Sounds good... I guess its a good thing I didn't try to start it yesterday.

Well, the engine was rebuilt/empty when I got it. I will empty the oil back out, pull the pump and fill it up.I already set the engine to TDC, and timed the distributor correctly to match. Same way you did it in your videos! Timed the distributor here, engine TDC... cyl #1 firing I have an oil pressure gauge, and the car has no fuel in it. Using valvoline vr-1 30w racing oil, non-synthetic. And yes, I'm going to take it out for a 20-mile drive and then change the oil.

Hey all, my engine is nearly ready to start up. Everything is plugged in, ect. I just want to make sure I know everything I have to do to start a REBUILT engine, the p/o of my car bought it rebuild before he sold it to me! I have read a bit about priming the oil pump.. whats the best way to do this, ect? I'm running 30w valvoline oil. Going to use this method for braking in the engine, http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Is there anything else I should do before starting it? Any tips or suggestions would be great, thanks!

Yeah, I agree. Once my fusible links get here I think I'm going to use the old alt the p/o gave me. seemed solid. I just wanted something new, thought it would be more reliable. Well wipers, heater, and lights would be very nice. BTW I'm going to JCCS next month!! Most other trips will probably be done in the family van like they always have (99' ford... we are the original owners. More spacious than a datsun!).

Its just spliced in ... Would work fine, but more annoying to replace it it blows again. I"ll probably just splice it OE style, its the most direct connection. Also have a quick question about the cig lighter, I do sometimes run a laptop/power inverter through there in our family van on long trips, ect. I'm wondering will the stock datsun wiring take that kind of current? I know my 92 toyota does not! I'm thinking of wiring in a 400w, so from the battery wire two wires with an inline fuse, going into the passenger compartment, mount the inverter to the trans tunnel? So I know the stock datsun alternator wont handle that since its only 35 amp... So how much power does the stock wiring take? A 60 amp alt should be good enough? Thanks. ..

Yeah the part number is 24022-89905...maybe 24022-N4200, those are 510/280z part numbers. as posted on http://datsun1200.co...?title=Fuse_Box The fusible link for Datsun 510 is 20 gauge, 0.5 sq mm. I ordered some 20 gauge fusible link from amazon ... So the question is it OK to use a connector, or should I splice it?

For the fusible links, I found out that the Datsun requires 20 gauge, 0.5 sq mm fusible link. I'm wondering, can I use a connector with it, or is it better to just directly splice the cables together?

No idea... I'm pretty sure I have the receipt but I think I bought it over a month ago. :( I'm pretty sure I have all the info that came with it. At this point, I think I'm just gonna go buy another one at the store I don't want to wait a week to get the car running!

I checked the alt with a multimeter, there is an insolation problem inside it! ! the A connection shorts to E/ground, when I wiggled a connection it stopped contacting!!

OK thanks for the help! I will go buy a new alternator, fusible links and get this running hopefully tuesday...

So uh... I just plugged in the battery. And... The fusible link burned itself to hell. help. edit, damnit... damn thing is shorted... pain to find this. :S edit2, The NEW alternater is shorted... took the plastic cover off and it fixed... stupid remanufactered POS. Now, where do I buy a fusible link?

Hey hainz, I have a 3.0 ohm resistance pertronix ignitor coil, and ignitor 1 in the dizzy. This setup was the one listed compatable on the pertronix site and the one I chose after lots of research!! I have three stock coils I got from p/o, but no ballast resistor. Remember I bought this car INCOMPLETE with just chassis, seperate engine, trans, various trivial parts such as coilovers. I have put this together with no good reference as this is my first car project! Please be patient with me as I know I have very little knowledge compared to a lot of you! The wires I have coming from the harness are yellow/green(brake switch thingy) black/white, black/blue, black/green, solid black. The wires from the dizzy/pertronix are red/black. OK, I'm going to be running the full pertronix ignition setup, so what I've gathered from your post the black/white, black/blue, and pertronix RED go to coil POSITIVE. Both solid black/ground go to coil NEGATIVE. 2nd part of harness - engine Black/red is for old POINTS, can be capped/isolated to make sure it does not short to anything. Black/yellow is something for dizzy also? Can be capped? Yellow is for temp sender. Carburetor - Weber 32/36 There are two connections, one for the choke, another that is a sensor thing that goes into the carb. I researched a bit and found the choke can be wired to any +12v that is ON when the car is at the ON position? I'm currently removing/putting new connections on most of the old really corroded stuff. I want to get this start-able today if possible! Looks like I'm going to make JCCS. Thanks!!

OK, I will probably just cap those off, then. Yes, now I see they grouped things together... I thought that at first but I was confused about what went where. The wiring diagram I have is not very complete. So what I've done is hooked up the black/green, black/blue, black/white, pertronix red to coil +, solid black, pertronix black to coil -. Yellow/green goes to brake sensor thing, yellow solid goes to temp sender. Thanks again for the help! Now I just gotta get to radioshack to get some more connectors to replace the old corroded ones. I can do it not with my awesome new wire crimper.