Thomas Perkins

I never open my side windows or the rear one.Let me see if I can find you some.

https://youtu.be/SEzbiN3p17E?si=dVRgJrNdfdJWzpng

METALLIC PLAYING IN THE RAIN..

https://youtu.be/Mt5MCfJ5tZQ?si=27ixtAycKD5OQEeG

I believe this came off  my 50 amp old alternator and my fitting connects onto the big end and little end goes into alternrltor.On my 60 amp alternator my fitting on mine truck goes into the alternator and this cable is not used on my 60 amp alternator.

They are.They also call them door lock actuator.I took the door panel off.I Have been using the key to lock and unlock it lately.They have some for sale on Ebay.I took the door panel off.Removed the electrical connector.It has 3 screws holding it to the end of door.It has two thick wire like coat hanger that needs to come off to get it off and out of door.One has a little clip.I plan on taking it apart to see if something is loose or need cleaning like you said.When I push the key fob to lock or unlock doors,the diver side makes a noise  same thing when I push the button on door to lock or un lock.I did put it all back together and will try again in a few days.Water was getting into the door cause  the moon roof drain hose came off of fitting at moon roof, water was traveling down the pillar and going into door.I fixed that,a common problem for the Lincoln ls.I could not find a video on how to remove the solenoid.It also has a cable going fron the solenoid to the door ,the part you open the door.I do a have a work manual like the dealers use.It is 4 thick books.You can't buy these in stores.

I have a alternator plug if you need one.You can have it for free.Do you want me to take pictures of it.It is like new.

My driver side door will not lock or unlock with key fob.It will with key.It just makes a noise.Sites I seen says it's a bad agitater and they have the same noise.New part is no longer available.Ebay has used one for a 100 bucks.I will take it apart and see if it is repairable.Also the door lock button will not  lock or unlock the driver door.Easy to take door panel off.Just had to fix the moon roof,the driver side hose came off and was leaking.Most all these ls"s have that problem.The moon roof has two drain hoses that the hoses go  down the pillar.I had to add to the hose.It is like the hose shrunk about 3 inches.They must of stretched the hose when they put it on.They used no clamps.When it rains,water gets in the moon roof at top and drains thru both hoses.The water was getting  into the door.I had to take  door panel off to get water out.Probably why the agitater went bad.

Here is my driver side door switch.I remember it was sticking,I sprayed with WD- 40 and it quit sticking.Wonder why Nissan don't sell these.I did buy 2 Nissan light bulbs for the dome light.They are brighter than the auto part store ones.

What is that part number Mike ?Nissan only shows the passenger side door switch.I took both sides out one time.Also Ebay only sells the passenger side one.I bought one awhile back,not knowing that they are not the same.

Also check your driver side door switch,not the same as passenger side.

Auto zones belts are thin and stretch.

2 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I got a vatozone belt for my Toyota pick up said made in India 9$

then went to Napa for my other Toyota same velt 6$ made in USA GATES  what the Fuck!!!!!!!!!!!. Bought American

Napa and advance sell the same parts.Gates is heavy duty.Their are fake parts out there.

2 hours ago, ElliotV said:

Will probably pop mine off and compare it it's only 8 bucks at AutoZone so if it is a little shorter that's perfect. I will probably still look at doing the ka alternator mod and experiment with my parts truck to see what fits on it so I can keep driving mine.

Auto Zone's belts are not good.I bought one  and it is cheaply made.Gates are the best.You get what you pay for.

Ya'll Funny.I just copied and pasted what was on the page that sells the custom made systems.

I use Gate belts.7365 is for the alternator/fan.Rock Auto Parts has them for 9.95.I also use a 60 amp in my  85 4x4.I also use a black magic marker and mark a line on alternate and bracket that let's me know if the  belt has moved.I also put a nut behind the tension screw with lock washer to keep alternator from moving.I have a new Nissan Alternator bracket in case I ever need one.

Gen II Super - Heat Cool and Defrost Amazing performance is achieved with the Gen II Super's "D" shaped air outlets. As an added benefit, you can position all 4 louvers wherever you need them in or under your dash. The Super is an ideal system for larger sedans and wagons. Features true bi-level operation for cooling and heating modes and a more-powerful dedicated dehumidified defroster.61005 Gen II Systems Include:Evaporator unit, mounting brackets, wiring harness, electronic servo heater control valve, duct hoses, drain kit. Defrost kit option includes ducts and hoses.Controls are ordered separatelyUnder hood components such as compressor, brackets, condenser, hose kit, drier, and optional upgrades are ordered separately.That part is a electronic servo heater control valve.This has a floor vent for heat.I have my heat come thru the floor and vents.The defogger is bad to the bone.Rock Auto parts sell the same compressor as the one I got with the kit.It will not fit the Stock Nissan hoses.All my hoses came in a kit.Got a new dryer.

That part is not a heating element.I read it wrong.The old hole in the firewall where the heater core hoses went into has been closed.The hoses go into the firewall in a different location.I guess the big box in dash has a core and blower motor built in it.

My heating element.

Mike,Vintage air has some that looks like mine,but it does not list Nissan's.He had one he installed in his restored jeep wagoneer.He showed me some in a magazine.This is when  Our heater cores were not sold any more plus they didn't fit in the box,I put 3 in and had trouble when I switch it to hot from cold,the cable would bind up.The oem.heater cores had the plastic elbows and heater core would not move.He also had to make a bracket to hold the big box under the dash.He knows his stuff.He also has a 720.The 20 amp fuse kept popping out of the fuse holder,it was melted there,so Jack rewired the heating and air,I have a red wire going to my positive battery terminal.The heating element has wiring.My heater will blow you away.I have to run it on low.AC will freeze you.Just the parts and special frame was 1200 bucks.Worth every penny.

My Radiator I have bolts right up to it,a perfect fit.Been using the same type for 30 years.When I replaced the original one,I replaced it with the Auto Zone type and  never had to buy another one.The last one got a pin hole at the top,it last eleven years.I usually take the water pump off when I replace the radiator and take back and get a free one.Inwas getting my heater cores from Auto Zone but they no longer sell them and don't fit good in the box it caused problems,you you move the switch from cold to hot it would bind up there.So I invested alot of money in a new Heating and air.

Yeah,here in Columbus Georgia area,I live right down the road from there and hardly have to turn my heater on in the winter time.I have a fairly new custom made heating and air.But we have very high humidity in the summer.That is why I changed my interior color from black to gray.Getting into my truck after work was blistering in the summer.My 60 amp alternator does great.I have a warranty on it and they gave me a 50 amp one once and it would not work right,I took it back and they gave me a 60 amp one.I 've had it about 2 years now.It is a Auto Zone one which really don't last long.Jack rewired my heating and air when he installed it.I remember years ago the 20 amp fuse kept popping out.The fuse holder there was kind of melted and not holding the fuse tight.Jack fixed it.I don't have a blower motor any more.This is what is under the dash now all the other stuff under the dash is gone.

Are you putting the bleeder container with the magnet higher than the slave cylinder so air can not go back in.I use a one man bleeder kit too but I have my wife pump the clutch pedal.It takes a bunch of times to get all the air out.After I get it right,I take it for a ride and bleed it again.I never ever bled my damper ,had my truck over 30 years. I put a new slave cylinder on not long ago.It was doing good but slave cylinder was leaking a little bit.My clutch master cylinder is fairly new.In time the yellow  fluid will get dark.Before you bleed, wipe out the clutch master cylinder and get all the black stuff out.If your slave cylinder ever goes bad on the road,you can bleed it and make it home.I did.

It is connected to your transfer case on 4x4.Mine had  transfer case oil coming thru the speedometer cable too.It got all on my carpet.I have since replaced the carpet.It does not leak any more.All I did was disconnect the cable at speedomter and reinstalled it.Probably was caused by me by not having it installed right long ago.My speedometer dial was cracked when I first bought the truck.When I would get to 35 mph the dial would go down.Then one day,I hit a deer,my dial came off.When I went to it put back on,I noticed the dial was cracked all the way thru where it connects to speedometer,that is why it kept going down.The dial only comes with the speedometer.Cant buy separate.I ended up buying a speedomter from 720 world,,the guy sent me two of them,but neither worked ,it was only 40 bucks,one had a clock on it,it is now on my truck ,so,it was worth it,I have extra tacometers,temperature gauges,and bulbs.Also extra fuel dials,also a Electrical cable,that goes to the speedomter.Didnt come with lens.

Not good for your transmission.

Pull your rear hubs off and check both cables coming into the adjusters,like Mike said,could be seized,my driver side was,but it was causing that side to lock up.I replaced the cable.Nissan still had them then,was 75 bucks.I could pull the little plug off the backing plate,and turn adjuster with a flat head screw driver to release it,but yours is probably seized,cause only two pulls.