powderfinger

Has anyone used this site for the rubber seal around the windshield or rear glass? If so, any feedback on quality? I need to replace the rear window seal on my truck and the existing seals on each of my 720s are all in bad shape. Doesn't look there are too many places that sell these. https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-720-pick-up-rear-glass-seal-cal-style-extended-king-cab-1980-1986/

Timing is at 5deg right now. I haven't checked to make sure both plugs are firing yet but I'll do that this evening. It looks like I am going to have to rewire the fuel pump. I put a low pressure pump on and it comes on for the initial 5 second prime but never comes back on when the truck is running like it's supposed to. I checked the wiring diagram and the fuel pump relay on the z24i is connected to the computer which gets a signal from the crank angle sensor that let's it know the truck is running and the fuel pump should be on. (At least that's how I interpret it) Since there is no crank angle sensor it doesn't know it's running, maybe I can connect that to the coil just like the tach is connected? Otherwise I can simply wire my own relay in or break the connection back to the computer on the existing fuel pump relay and either ground it or tie it to ignition depending on which it needs, I'll have to check wiring diagram.

I got it running. I believe my distributor must have failed at some point during troubleshooting this issue. Caused me to think my timing light was acting up. I swapped the distributor out with another one I had and it fired right up. Power is a little down especially once I am in 3rd gear and higher. I still need to check and make sure the timing is advancing like it should. Also the weber was jetted for a truck with a header, no catalytic converter, and a turbo muffler. This truck has full stock exhaust so I guess it's possible it could be running a little on the rich side. I'll check the plugs and see how they look.

Thanks for the replies. It seems I have everything correct. Going to go back out to the shop today and double check everything again.

That's exactly how I wired it using the Z24 coils. Not sure what's going on yet but it definitely won't start. Doesn't help that my timing light is acting up now.

I have an 86 720 4x4 z24i. I just recently put the engine out of a running z24 truck in it. I left the weber on the z24 engine I put in the truck and at first I swapped the distributor out for the crank angle sensor in the z24i and got the truck running using the factory z24i ignition setup but it was never running correctly. Had absolutely no power at all. Maybe this wasn't the best move but I decided to simplify things by swapping back to the standard vacuum advance distributor setup like the z24 has. I used the coil packs from the other truck and wired in the distributor and coils figuring now the trucks computer is out of the equation and the motor should run fine...and now I can't get it to run. I have verified there is spark, I was able to check timing while my son was cranking the engine over and it is very advanced for some reason, past the timing scale on the block by quite a bit. I tried rotating the distributor as much as possible but still very advanced. I then tried rotating the wires one spot on the distributor (intake to next closest intake spot and exhaust the same way) in case I could get the timing close enough like that to get the truck to fire. No dice. The shaft that drives the distributor is installed correctly so, not sure why the timing is off so much and even so it seems like I should have been able to get it close enough to at least attempt to start. On top of that it now seems my timing light isn't working so there's that. Is there any reason swapping the distributor and coils over like I have wouldn't work? Seems like it should work fine, I have verified I wired the the distributor correctly.

I wish you were close to me. I'd love to have the front and rear diff out of that 81 to lower the gear ratio of my 86 4x4.

Good luck, you will have better luck finding one from an 85 or early 86. They didn't rust quite as bad. I just sold one of my spare 85 model beds to a guy who had an 84 model. He drove 7 hours with no bed on his truck, lights were zip tied to his bumper, and we installed the bed at my house and he drove home. 🙂

In case anyone wants to do a fuel injection conversion. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/400613231545417/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"-7535109037544600263"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"36460234754077870"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A36460234754077870%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A49%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A8366367826117656576%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A2.2751332264368e-5%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A129%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"-7535117833664391599"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"2974653370926628864"}

This is what's on my Weber. I have never looked this up to see where it came from or what it cost. It was already on the truck when I bought it.

Like Mike said "most" replaceable items can be found at any parts store. One of the best things you can do, if you have the space for it, is to keep an eye on Craigslist and FB Marketplace for someone selling a truck really cheap and buy it to use as a parts truck. If you monitor those sites often you will find deals on trucks but if it is a really good deal it will go fast. I hate Facebook with a passion but I have an account only so I can use Marketplace because hardly anyone uses Craigslist anymore. A few years back I found an 85 720 that ran fine and had a really good body on it for $400.

I'll give this a try next chance I get, unfortunately early and mid October is extremely busy for me. I probably won't get back to working on it for another 3-4 weeks.

Well.....I decided yesterday to swap the intake manifold to a carbureted one to simplify the adapter situation with the Weber. Weren't we just talking about how most issues with vehicles were due to previous owners and their hack-job repairs. Well someone took the intake manifold off at some point, probably to fix a blown head gasket and put a mixture of different bolts back in it instead of all the factory ones. Unfortunately, three of these were very poor quality bolts that had rusted and started to seize inside of the head. I managed to get them all out but one. This one snapped the head off. There was still about a half inch of bolt sticking out of the head so I tried to use vice grips to get it out but it's in there really good and just keeps tearing up the bolt and rounding it more. I then tried forcing a nut onto it and tack welding the nut to the bolt. I was very nervous about trying this because it is a bottom bolt right near the head gasket but I didn't have any other ideas. Got that tacked on and when I tried to get it off all it did was snap the bolt off nearly flush with the head. I tried using an easy-out but I knew that was a waste of time before I even tried it. The steel the bolt is made of is garbage and it just rounded the hole in the bolt out. There is just enough bolt sticking out that I can try welding another nut onto it but it makes me nervous being a bottom bolt and so close to the gasket. Not sure what else to do at this point. Drilling it out would be difficult without damaging the head. Especially because of the angle. I would need to get the head off and mount it on my drill press to be assured I am drilling straight.

The body of this truck looks way too nice to let this dude take it to a scrap yard. Someone go get it, I have too many already 🙂 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/386835556300546/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A6291366a-d8b0-4b6f-bd1b-8c9b52d85dc1

My 4x4 king cabs have the short tail 5 speed and my 2wd king cab has the long tail 5 speed. All of them have the shock absorber on the transmission, even the 2wd. Not sure if they are all the same but they appear to be. Much easier to remove the short tail because it clears the cross member better.

I was thinking about using the carb manifold but decided at the last minute not to but now with these issues with the adapter I may just go ahead and switch over to it.

The pump worked after wiring it straight to the battery. When I cranked the truck up the engine was making a loud whistling sound and I couldn't keep it running. Turns out I have a major air leak on the drivers side of the adapter I made where it mounts to the intake. Probably caused by a combination of the aluminum I used not being perfectly flat and the fact that because of how the adapters are made I had to tighten the passenger side of the bottom adapter plate down first before putting the second adapter on and then the carb. The nuts on the drivers side of the carb hold the carb and both adapters down. By tightening the passenger side of the bottom plate first I most likely caused a gap on the other side. I need to redesign it to allow me to tighten all four together so I am not putting torque on only one side at a time. It also didn't help that the only gasket material Autozone had was fairly thin.

yep, that's what I plan on doing this evening after work if I have time

I looked under there over the weekend because that's what I was planning to do and I believe this truck has a different relay than the carbureted models. I will look into this further but the original fuel pump and relay worked fine. Only issue was when I swapped in the low pressure pump which I also know was working a few weeks ago.

Well. I got an adapter plate made and got the Weber carb on the z24i intake but after getting that put on and swapping out the fuel pump for a low pressure pump off another truck now the fuel pump isn't coming on for some reason. I didn't have time to troubleshoot the issue other than to verify there is no voltage at the pump when the key is on. I may hot wire the pump just to make sure it's working, I know it was a few weeks ago. If I can get it working by hotwiring it I can at least see if the truck runs decent with the Weber on there. I forgot to take pics of the adapter plate after it was finished but i did get one of the standard adapter sitting on my manifold and another of the standard adapter sitting on top of the adapter plate I was working on before I finished it. If the truck ends up running good with this setup I will probably go back and make a new adapter with the studs made into it for the weber instead of having an adapter that attaches to another adapter. Seems like I am just asking for an intake leak with two adapter plates on there but this will work temporarily. I had to use longer studs on the right side because of the thickness of the two adapter plates. I removed the factory studs on the left side of the intake and used bolts to hold the first plate down to the intake. Had to trim them down to make them fit without hitting the other adapter. I made gaskets to go between each plate. Once again, certainly not ideal but hopefully it will be good enough to test it out. I wish I had thought of just making one adapter that mounts to the intake and the carb can mount directly to before making this intermediate plate, would have been much easier.

hmmm, I'd like to have the front and rear diff out of that truck.

Won't have a chance to work on the truck any until this weekend. Does anyone have a lead on where I can find a transfer case shift boot? All the ones I have are torn up. I'd like to find a factory one otherwise I'll have to find the closest universal one and make it work I guess.

That is definitely an option especially since I have a carbureted intake manifold sitting in the floor of my shop. The z24i has a water temp sending unit on the intake that the carbureted intake does not have. I am guessing the computer uses that signal to control fuel delivery, if so then it won't be functioning with the weber anyway so it doesn't matter.

Good point Charlie, I have two working fuel pumps on my spare carbureted 720's I can just put one of those on there if I do give the Weber a try. I'll have to see how difficult making the spacer plate will be or if it is even needed, pretty sure the intake manifold where the carb mounts is different between the two. I have some fairly thick aluminum laying around I can use for an adapter plate if needed. Starting to lean towards giving this a try since I have all the parts needed unless the adapter plate is more difficult than I am imagining, all it will cost is time. At least it will tell me if this is a fuel delivery issue, whether it be an issue with the TB or computer related.

Well, I took at look at the truck again today for a while. From what I can tell it appears the previous owner put a throttle body on this truck from a 87 and up D21. I am guessing he was fighting the same issue I am dealing with and just gave up. From what pics I have seen in my Haynes manual the 86 throttle body did not have an idle up solenoid, only an FCID. The idle up solenoid was added in 87. My 86 has a 6 pin connector, 2 wires for the FCID and 2 wires for each injector. 87 and up had an 8 wire connector with the 2 additional wires being for the idle up solenoid. This explains why the idle up solenoid wires are just hanging there. Doesn't solve any of my issues though. I drove the truck around for a while this afternoon but it's pretty miserable to drive at this point because of the lack of power. I did another compression check while the engine was cold and readings ranged from 132-139, only thing I did different this time was hold the throttle wide open. While these readings aren't very good I am guessing this isn't my problem. The engine idles fine although a bit high and I can't adjust it any lower, sitting around 1050RPM. The engine rattle is still there at a certain throttle range/load, and when reving the engine up to 3000RPM and letting off the gas while sitting it spits and sputters out of the exhaust some. I am tempted to get a fuel pressure regulator and make an adapter plate for my Weber carb and throw it on there temporarily to see if that fixes the issue. I read about someone else doing this with no issues. All he did was swap in the carb, add the fuel pressure regulator and drive it. He left the crank sensor in place. Link below. z24i EFI, TBI, to weber carburetor conversion - Nissan Forum | Nissan Forums (nicoclub.com) Here is a video of the truck running so the rattle can be heard. The sound is muted when you first open the video, you have to click the little speaker in the top right corner and adjust the volume. https://imgur.com/a/71DWlem