powderfinger

and in case you have just recently gotten this 720 and don't have a lot of experience getting parts for it, make sure when you order parts order them for an 85 720. Otherwise it is very likely you will get parts for a D21 hardbody since both trucks were made in 86. Only caveat to that is if you have the Z24i, some of the Z24i specific parts are likely shared with the 86 D21 but I am not 100% sure.

Good luck finding the correct replacement. You may be better off using one of the newer style and just replacing the hoses to match. Or getting custom made hoses. The one time I purchased a new compressor I got the same one you show on the left and I had to take it back. Luckily a parts truck I bought had a functioning compressor on it.

Just as a sanity check, measure the voltage across your battery terminals! I just took the entire interior out of my 720 and redid the whole thing. After putting the dash back in and connecting the instrument cluster I tried to start the truck and nothing happened. I just knew I had pinched a wire somewhere, even though it seemed highly unlikely, or knocked something loose, once again highly unlikely. I poked around and couldn't find anything wrong. I then checked the battery and sure enough it had somehow went bad in the week that it had been sitting there disconnected. Crazy coincidence and is likely not your issue, but I didn't think it was my issue either since I had just been driving the truck 7 days earlier.

With my weber it doesn't take much more than 1000RPM idle to make the truck diesel when shutting off. I used to bump the idle speed up on my weber in the warm weather months to be able to handle the load of the AC. If I shut the truck off without the AC running it would occasionally diesel.

What is your idle RPM once the engine is warm?

Thanks for the replies, saved me from possibly ruining one of my dimmer switches. You turn it all the way to the left then push it in and turn left again.

Silly question but is there a trick to removing the interior light dimmer switch from the dash? Clearly the knob needs to come off but I am worried I am going to break it because it is on there good. I don't see a set screw and it doesn't appear that the end of the knob comes off to reveal a screw either. I have the entire dash completely apart other than that switch.

The body appears to be in excellent condition. I would definitely fix it but I am not in California so I don't have to deal with the inspection side of it. In North Carolina you don't have to get vehicles this old inspected at all.

Just saw this on Facebook Marketplace in Tennessee. The guy wants $1200 for it. Would make a cool project, you don't see these very often.

Too bad you are in California, if not you could just leave the carburetor on there. If you do decide to try and get this truck running I can hook you up with parts. I just converted a z24i to z24 so I have the high pressure fuel pump, intake manifold, crank angle sensor, and oil pump/CAS drive spindle from the z24i sitting on a shelf in my shop. I also have the throttle body but I think it was from a D21 and since California is so ridiculous with their vehicle laws I am not sure you could use it although the difference is so small I can't imaging anyone would notice. Edit, I also have the charcoal canister if needed, the air intake, and the transistor/ignition coils.

The 86 z24i fusible link is a little different than the standard z24. I think there is one extra wire. Pretty sure one of the connectors on the z24i has three fusible links and the z24 doesn't have a 3 wire connector. Not 100% sure about that though. I'll have to check one of my parts trucks.

Yeah I just recently posted about the rear window seal from vintagerubber.com. I meant to order it last week and didn't. It was $90 then, I just went to order one last night and it is now $110. I guess that's what I get for procrastinating and not ordering it last week.

Looks great, those seats look like they sit pretty low. You've got me wondering if I could make them work in a 720. Probably wouldn't like bolstered seats in a 4x4 but they look comfy.

Yeah the drivers side lower hinge is destroyed on my truck. Luckily one of my parts trucks has a good one on it. I ordered one from rockauto for my 2x4 a few years ago and fitment wasn't great but I managed to make it work.

That's more of what I would expect and this same engine was in my 2wd and ran great. This truck does still have an extremely old exhaust on it with a cat. I already dumped a lot of shit out of the muffler (small metal/medium flakes) before I put it back on but I did verify I could see though the cat before putting it back on. I would think if the exhaust was too restrictive for whatever reason it would be running a little rich but it isn't. I plan to replace the entire exhaust because it has several leaks and is pretty rusty. When I do, I'll just get rid of the cat.

I bought a wideband sensor and gauge mainly because I have been wanting one anyway and figured this was good excuse to get one. I am starting to think the truck is running as it should and maybe I have expectations that were a little too high. The AFR gauge tells me the truck is jetted fine and it accelerates decent on level ground through all gears. It certainly maintains 60mph on flat ground. Only issue is hills but I think I may have been spoiled by the 2wd, I haven't driven an early 80s 4cyl 4x4 in a long time. In addition to that my tires are 235/75/15 which is 1.2" taller than stock and that isn't helping matters.

Yes, some old 2wd Toyotas had a 1 ton decal on the tailgate. I owned one 20 years ago or so.

Well, I drove the truck to work today but it is still underpowered. I think the jetting is pretty close because the plugs look good, although I didn't check every cylinder yet but I don't expect any surprises because I know the motor is solid. The truck also idled into my shop and ran for a second before checking so I guess the jetting could still be off at higher throttle. It's pulling to the left some so maybe it's possible the brakes are dragging some. At only 100hp it wouldn't take much to make an impact I wouldn't think. As it stands the truck will not maintain highway speed around 60mph in 5th. As soon as I hit any sort of hill at all I have to downshift. I did notice when installing new shocks that the inside of the front rotors were thinner than the outside. Sounds like it's time for a better brake/brake line inspection.

I hear ya, I could use some seals for the rear vent windows as well. All of mine are split in the bottom corners.

Awesome, that's good to hear. Thanks for the feedback, I'll likely go ahead and get a front and rear seal from them.

That's a great idea Mike, I think I'll do that.

That's a good idea, I'll likely do that, but where did you mount this? It looks like the only place it would thread into is the where the sending unit currently is.

Intake and exhaust plugs are firing. I took a look at the manual, then cut and grounded the wire going from the fuel pump relay to the computer. That fixed the fuel pump issue, only issue with that is there is no safety mechanism to shut off the fuel pump in case of an accident now. If the truck happened to be laying on it's side not running the pump would spew fuel out the carburetor until the fuel level was below the pickup tube. Power still seems too low compared to what it did in my 2wd. I realize this truck is heavier but I think it's a little more than just the extra weight. I also believe I have a bit of a wiring issue which could be affecting how the truck is running. I noticed when I first start it up the battery light is flickering and the voltage gauge bounces around. After it has been running for a bit the light seems to stop flickering but when I put the truck in reverse the light comes on and I can see the voltage drop from 14V to around 12V on the gauge. What's strange is it doesn't do it when I turn the headlights on, only in reverse. Regardless I am thinking my ground connection at the battery box might need to be redone. That connection looks pretty rusty and I have already had a connection problem with the corroded wire on the ground terminal of the battery that I had to clean up.

That's the same truck I have but mine is an 86 ST model 4x4. I may call that company and see if their seal works on a sliding glass. I took the black plastic fenders flairs off of mine but may decide to put them back on at some point. I think I like the way it looks better without them though. I have the small chrome pieces that cover the edge of the fender wells on my 2wd ST model. I am considering taking those off that truck and putting them on the 4x4.

Yes, I was curious if the molding is different for the sliding vs non sliding rear window. All mine are sliding rear windows with no metal trim.