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New Mexico
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Cars
'75 Toyota FJ40, '85 Nissan 720 rwd
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bum
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DIY 1985's Achievements
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It happens. For example someone trying to be helpful, suggests diesel-type of motor oil, in a gas engine vehicle, even though it isn't that type of catalytic converter compatible.
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Sounds fabrication-ish. Also, the U Pull scrap yards might have something - tons of interesting and fun, if you have the time. Post up what you need in the Ratsun classifieds, first. Mayday to Ebay? Is it a gasoline engine? Which one?
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In defense of previous owner's, it gets confusing. When you look at the sticker/vacuum diagram, and you see just one hose going to the charcoal canister, but the charcoal can has three barbs, that, and there is only one line illustrated for the AB valve, but the engine has a line going to the air cleaner assembly, and two going to the intake manifold (one to sense the vacuum, one to add a pulse of filtered air. Plus, the previous owner was possibly digging thru work done by an earlier owner... It is common to just install a vented fuel cap for dumbing down and simplifying during desmog. Like mine, I discovered a float bowl vent on the carb that it came with, and it was routed to the charcoal can (five barbs - a purge signal line, two fuel vapor flush purge lines to a factory looking junction barb before the AB valve line to the intake manifold - iirc, and a line to the fuel tank). But, the FSM describes no float bowl vent on the carb itself, just the canister. Also, it is a 12/84 (USA) build (making it an '85 model year). The FSM describes an air/fuel ratio solenoid in the carb, but it wasn't there when I found it. Maybe the folks at the corner auto parts sold a rebuild of incorrect carb (I don't actually know what an incorrect carb would look like, but, I bet it would bolt up) to some pre-internet dude, back in the '90's, and took the original factory carb as a core? BTW, you'll see above, that my emissions routing diagram correctly shows three lines from the AB valve, unlike the sticker provided by this thread's author.
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There are slots, horizontal, just below the working ones, for spare fuses. Just in case. You can see that a PO hijacked the second slot in mine, making a permanent bend in the second slot. The wires go to the fuel pump (I see that my oil pressure switch is missing a wire. The mystery continues for me... All of the carburetor subharness is dead, and there are some aftermarket wires on one of the coils (one coil wasn't wired when I bought it). I might have some other issues that have yet to be sorted out.
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Does your engine use hard lines which route tubing from the intake side to the area by the distributor? Actually, they are using oil filters for Maxwell House: https://yotaoilfilters.com/products/toyota-oil-filter-vacuum-sealed-insulated-tumbler
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Maybe, the bowl vent is supposed to go to a tee that runs to the charcoal canister and the thermal vacuum valve/distributor, as suggested on your emissions control hood diagram (not really a map or layout plan, just a diagram, so it isn't in front where you marked it's location)?
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The booster hose runs from the booster to a barb on the firewall side of the intake manifold.
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How do I know my motor? z22, z24? Does anyone need one?
DIY 1985 replied to 720_Daniel's topic in 720
What about other internal combustion engine equipment? Hydraulic power steering, windshield defogger/heat, and vacuum assist brake booster (or, is that regenerative braking)? -
How do I know my motor? z22, z24? Does anyone need one?
DIY 1985 replied to 720_Daniel's topic in 720
But, is an electric conversion actually California Smog legal? I asked someone in California who already completed one, and got no response. It retained the original transmission and transfercase, maybe bellhousing. Maybe that was for having a neutral and a reverse gear? Where are the mounting points for the drivetrain? -
Still looking into this for my own purposes, which are different than yours. But, if you want greater (overall) brightness with high beams, you could probably hack the wiring on a conventional H4656 (outer/low-high) so that you only run the low-beam (55 watt), and not the (40 or 35 watt - depending on which Sylvania lamp, XTRAVision or Silver Star) high-beam. The principle of this is when you run high beams, the outer bulbs are actually in the lower wattage mode. Just add a fusible link/inline fuse, two relays, and trigger them with the driver side of the harness. Plus, you will get better gauge, a shorter run, and new wiring, to make it all happen. The video below explains it, with the guts of the lamp exposed. In the comments, they almost figure it out on a Volvo 740. I've seen it on my truck - the outer bulbs are not as bright when the switch is in the high beams position. The author of the video was under the impression that high beams mean brighter beams. However, it makes sense, to me, with the notation in the '85 owner's manual (just for the non-halogen offered in '85 - high beams are 40 watts, low are 60w).
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I found a ground cable on the alternator to the battery, when I bought it. I added one from the starter to the battery negative, trying to solve what I think is a intermittent starter grinding (bendix?) issue. There is a smaller black one that was attached to the intake, with a factory-looking ring terminal and two-color wire. Same thing between the firewall and the driver corner of the valve cover (that can't be right, as there are little non-metal bushings on the valve cover, but who knows). Then there was a similar, factory looking, ring terminal on the heat shield of the exhaust manifold (Z24 with exhaust O2 sensor). Since I am running an A/F ratio readout gauge, so I repaired that wire. That didn't last long. So, I bent some 16 gauge solid galvanized steel wire into a loop on one end, and ran it for a few inches (to get rid of some of the heat) to a bare crimp connector and regular wire to the firewall. On other truck's factory set-up, there is a thick cable between the head and the battery, and a cable between the starter and the frame. The aftermarket connectors on the turn signals aren't exactly weatherproof, so I might have just used bare connectors and heat shrink, with some electrical tape as harness wrap, I forget. Do the turn signals glow, at all, and not blink?
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The special bleeders are called Speed Bleeders by Russell; I don't have experience with them, nor do I recommend them. The teflon tape around the male threads on the bleeder screw might also be kinda compromised / not OEM - subject to loosening, possibly? I just used that as an example of how bleeding can be trouble in that air might get in thru the loose fit on the threads of the bleeder screw. Once you understand that the bleeder screw should only be cracked open just enough, you will get by without any compromising modifications to equipment, which could get you stranded. I use a really heavy glass jar (Straus Cream) from the grocery store, as a bleeder bottle; I drill a hole in the cap to fit the 1/4-inch tubing. It allows me to use vinyl tubing that would otherwise knock over the empty bottle, especially when it is cold outside. The clear vinyl tubing comes from a bulk spool at Ace Hardware.
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Sometimes bleeding is difficult because if the bleeder screw is opened too much, air can get drawn thru the threads on the bleeder. They make special bleeder screws, that have a thread locker type of sealant so air doesn't get drawn thru this kinda sloppy fit, but, I've heard of folks who use teflon tape to do the same thing. The special bleeder screws also have a one-way valve, internally, but, I've seen reports that the spring that keeps the valve requires extra pressure, so it makes getting air bubbles harder to remove in the overall system. If you just barely crack the bleeder screw, it will be fine, typically. Also, consider the overall configuration of the bleeder set-up, you can make it harder if the hose is working against your efforts. I'd like to see pics of the hack. The funny push rod and all. Sometimes hydraulic fittings can be a battle that isn't always won. A flare-nut wrench can strip the hex on the flare nut, no problem. It does this because flare nut wrenches are usually inadequate for breaking the nut free after it rusts up a bit. If you use a Vise-Grips (vice grips) to prevent the flare nut from distorting (opening up) when you turn it, it will work far more effective. I was able to free all of the hydraulic lines, on my other rust bucket, without stripping a single one. I also found that there was no reason to really replace the hard lines, just blow them out with compressed air, but, new lines were available as new and already formed, they also had already arrived, so they got installed. When you try to unfreeze it for the first time, grab the locking wrench with one hand, and the flare nut with the other.
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I see it now. The part that confused me was that in the FSM it illustrates three relays above the fuse block, I only have two, but, I get it. Maybe my relay switch, or wiring, is tired? I see minor arcing when I operate the combination switch to the headlight position? Why would I need to clean the switch again if I have had to do it several times in the last five years? Part of the wiring upgrade (for older trucks - CJ Jeep and FJ40) is to reduce the run of wire that carries current by placing the relays closer to the lamps and battery, to increase the gauge of wire used in the circuit, and to eliminate the headlight switch (on those trucks) itself from doing the heavy lifting. Either way, I see it as an opportunity to replace old parts with new. I might be wrong, but, it really looks like Nissan is using 18-gauge at the lamp connectors? A Sylvania H4656 XtraVision Halogen has a 40 watt (low beam) filament - I realize that this isn't the exact the part/answer to the OP's question. Some of the parts from the combination switch assemblies swap. Could help, depending on the situation. Mine is a bit of a frankenstein hybrid.