Soundline

Me after my 11th beer.

What car?

This is what I’m looking for.

I really haven’t heard of it making you massive... I have heard about rapid onset adult dementia though. If you can’t get to 3”, you won’t care because you won’t know what to do with it anyhow. hopefully it’s too big to put in a wall outlet or you might get a shocking experience

I’d honestly be willing to pay $400 usd for a solid 110amp alt. I do occasional product testing for companies, and this was part of that. I ended up keeping the Bosch one since it was the best of the lot. Lock is dead on with the replacement of only failed components. The vibration that alternators experience can cause wires to break over time. Especially if the metal the copper I’d mixed with is brittle. I didn’t take them apart but I did look inside and I wasn’t impressed. If I could find a really good auto electric place to build me one I’d be elated. Guess that’s my next mission.

I believe the astra and Pfizer are both rNA modifiers, not traditional vaccines. They are viruses that inject new dNA replication models to change the way your immune system reacts to threats. The concern is, with no long term studies, will they cause immune system issues like Lupus.

I couldn’t sort out how to send pics in the messages so I figured I’d just show everyone what I was talking about. Most of my finds we’re done with no pictures, but this gives you a reasonable understanding. I like the light switch idea. Honestly the best “mod” I’ve seen was on a 79’ Corvette. Dude had cut out part of the frame and put in fiberglass sandwiched between aluminum to make the car lighter. He took it to the strip and ripped it in half. So things could be worse. Besides, I like wiring and I get a nice little discount through Painless, so I’ll be removing all of this.

Which shot did you get?

That’s a great looking engine bay. You have a wonderful rig brother. Also good to know. Proper tool for the proper job. Actually I’m glad you caught it. I’d be happy to sit down and have a drink and a burger with all of you. I’ve learned more in this thread than I’d pieced together on my own in months. I’ll be putting together an L20b with a U67, with a cam and side drafts. I’ll figure out the specifics on them as I get closer. Can I put the larger valves into a U67 that’s been machined out or do you think that’s a waste?

This is the video that actually tipped me over the edge. After seeing this, I’m confident Australia is a myth.

Actually Ran it’s because the sensors were poor. The new LIDAR technology allows them to operate much faster. The old ones would get every 5th or 10th car. They were exposed in court proceedings to be subject to cross contamination from other vehicles. You’ll see them again soon.

I personally don’t have a dog in the fight, I’m just quoting the source. I see this particular book referenced as the Bible of tuning our rigs. So it’s interesting to see it be just another source. Interesting. I sourced a U67 head tonight and I’ll keep chipping away at research until I’m comfortable with moving forward with a new thread. I prefer to make myself as educated as reasonable before opening up and proving my ignorance.

One of these days I’m gonna drive up to Canada so you can drink beer and tell me all the stupid things I need to fix. I let this slip by in the earlier conversation, and I’m sure someone can address this. From Honsowetz:

@banzai510(hainz) Regarding why I’d like to rewire my 620. . A number of the connections are far too tight from previous repairs I have unplugged wires that were wrapped around the heater hose. Im absolutely certain that this loose rats nest isn’t from the factory. This is not how you should connect this resistor. and... who does this?

If you come across another one I’d be interested. Datsuns have a way of multiplying... especially 620’s *cough* @hobospyder *cough* I dunno Mike, it looks like it’s a factory hole to me.

I ordered a new set of battery cables from Painless Wiring to redo this dogshit. Im utterly unfamiliar with the SU’s. My tentative research lead me to Weber DCOE 40’s side draft. Admittedly I’ve not done my homework so I didn’t wanna speak out of turn. I TRY not to ask totally stupid questions. As for Cams Keith suggested Isky which, appears to only have one grind, that appears to have been used since the 80’s.

That’s how it was grounded when I got it. You think I should put it somewhere else? Tell me which hole you want me to put it in.

If I’m remembering this correctly you remove the valves and get to work. I’ll post up in the classified section looking for another U67 head. This is my head that’s in the truck right now. I’d like to keep it running while all of this is going on. So I’ll pick up another engine to work with.

from Serles again: “The W53 casting is marked in the usual spot. W53 cylinder heads were originally produced for the Japanese domestic market. The W53 features 32mm (1.25”)” intake ports and square exhaust ports. These heads usually have 42mm (1.65”) intake valves and 35mm (1.38”) exhaust valves. The W53 is considered a closed combustion chamber casting with few exceptions. The closed combustion chamber volume is approximately 41cc. The W53 isn’t as common in the US as the closed A87 in part because many of the W53 cylinder heads were fitted to EFI versions of the L18, which didn’t tend to be imported in great numbers. If the W53 head was fitted with an EFI intake manifold at the factory, machining was performed to drill and tap additional intake manifold bolt holes and to cut notches in the intake ports to accommodate the fuel injector nozzles.” This kills my pride to say Mike you’re right about things getting muddied up by US emission standards changing compression and causing heads to be changed by Nissan to meet those standards.

W58 is the smog head.

From Serles: “The early castings of the 210 head had more of a semi-open combustion chamber design, a shape somewhat better than the open chamber. Later examples were cast with the open chamber design familiar to US 510 owners. Both types of combustion chamber measured 38.5cc. Unmodified, these heads are usually avoided for performance applications. The 210 head is believed to be originally designed for the L13, an engine never imported to the US, and the likely reason for the small intake ports and valves.” I’ve no idea here if Julian Serles is accurate, but I think this is the kidney shaped chamber.

I definitely read that in some of the Grey stuff. So let’s address this from another angle. Let’s say I’m wrong, which I often am, and relying solely upon Honsowetz isn’t my best option. Staying in the L20b block, what is the best head to make power for a fun to drive street truck?

Given these two bits of information I think I need to start all over again, head back to the drawing board and reassess.