Loryde520

Well the head is cracked, so I can't rebuild it. My 210 has 1 3/8" intake runners, and my exhaust manifold is square port.

So, here's my dilemma. I've got a L20B in my 520. It was constantly burning oil, like really severe on start-up. I pulled the W-58 head off and found about a 1/4 teaspoon of fresh oil in every piston dish. Looking further into the head after pulling a couple of valves I discovered a few cracks around the valve guides. This head is junk which is too bad because it was a closed chamber W58, which I understand is rare?? I bought a complete rebuilt 1600 with a faux SSS head, meaning it's a 210 casting with 1.65 intake and 1.30 exhaust valves with closed chambers. It has a Shadbolt 445 cam in it ready to go. I also got a Shadbolt 651 cam with the motor. My question is, do I run the 445 cam or the 651? I also have a brand new U20 cam out of my W58 head. I'm not really sure what a U20 is, but those are the numbers on it. I should also mention I am running Mikuni R1 carbs with a Bogg Bros. intake and a Hitachi dizzy.The truck ran really good with the W58 head and carbs, however I was gonna kill every mosquito in BC with the smoke. Any help is greatly appreciated!

Yes you are correct. The little light only comes on when your lights are on and the hood open. I have a functioning factory one in my 520.

I also live in Canada, but the milder Westcoast. I run Delo 15w 40 in everything I own. I've owned commercial trucks my whole working career and have run nothing but Chevron Delo. I run it in my boat, motorhome, GM Yukon,VW, my motocross bikes and most importantly my '68 520! The only vehicle I don't run it in is my BMW, that gets strictly synthetic. As for your filter, I'm not sure. If you keep your oil changed when due, I don't think it really matters what filter you run. This is coming from someone who has changed their own oils/ filters for 30 years. Good Luck!

Ya, I bought those 4" blocks from Crown Suspension. I paid $40 usd delivered, and it took about an hour to install. I've done many lowering jobs, and these are the best ones to use. If you have no problem using Ebay down under, then I would go with the Crown blocks. Cheers mate!

Dang!! A little too far of a drive for a Sunday morning! Any North Left coast swap meets coming up????

Check your rear springs too! Make sure they didn't pull out any leafs. There should be 4 or 5 springs per side. They probably used lowering blocks which you can remove. All you will need are new shorter u-bolts.

I know right?? Two days from the Island this time of year is a record! They must have know it was some very important Datsun parts. Nothing owing on post,....you must've overpaid.

Thanks datzenmike!! The steering wheel collar arrived today, now I can mount my steering wheel! It's guys like you that make this site and hobby a success! Your time and effort is greatly appreciated. If you need anything over on the mainland, please let me know. I owe you one. Thanks,.....again. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

I've read almost all 63+ pages, and the problem is some of those posts are years old. I did try to get in touch with Jason via e-mail and phone, but no answers. I guess what I am getting at is someone whose is currently fabbing intakes for this application. I've also visited Bogg's website, but was just curious about their product.

Does anyone know if "Jason" from Seattle area is still fabricating intakes for an L16 with Mikuni bike carbs? I've tried to email and call with no response. Anyone ever deal with Bogg Bros.in UK? I am in the process of installing Mikuni's and will need an intake fabbed. Any takers?? Thx

Thanks so much for the info! Problem is, finding a wrecker with older cars. Nothing in wreckers older than 10 years. I'll stop in at Ralphs in Abby tomorrow. They may have something old.

Yes, that is the part I am looking for. I did order it from Zparts, but they sent my payment back saying the part is discontinued. I've never seen this tapered collar in anything I've ever worked on, but it is a very critical part in keeping the steering wheel tight. I desperately need one as Im ready to drive my 520, but not with a wobbly wheel! I have posted a want ad in classified.

Yes, they are absolutely 7/16" fine thread. I know this because I just replaced a stud on the rear, which you do not have to pull the axles. You may have to in your application of the Hummer studs,as they look longer than stock. The ones I bought did not have the flat spot on the head to prevent from spinning. Also, the new one had splines, but quick work with a bench grinder fixed it all.

Does anyone know if they sell or repop the little 2 piece collar that goes behind the steering wheel on the steering shaft to keep the wheel tight? Would any other years fit? I have a '68 520. Any info would greatly be appreciated! Thx.

Thanks Datzenmike!! There is actually quite an inventory of posts on this topic. Greatly appreciated!! I can't wait to hear these Mikuni's sing. Wish me luck!

I know it's been done before, but I'm gonna try a set of Mikuni R1 bike carbs on my L20. Does anyone know if the guy in Seattle is still making the intakes for this? Any info on this setup would be very helpful! Thanks,..... in advance.

Thanks for all the excellent info. I'm having the same issue with a frozen shut-off valve. Gonna get on it tomorrow and tap it out.

Thank you Charlie69!

Messed that one up! I have to figure this out, getting old and forgettful

Just thought I would post some updates to my '68 520 build. Getting down to the final details. I finally had my new driveshaft made, so now the truck actually runs and drives, although I am still waiting for wheel cylinders, so no brakes for now. I just got my e-brake cables from Ebay. They are actually for a 620, so I have to do some bracket mods. Then it's down to the exhaust shop for a complete new system. Any ideas?? It is an L20 with a 1600 head. I am gonna finish the interior after Christmas. .....Am I allowed to say Christmashttp://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.htmlwithhttp://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.htmlout http://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.htmlhttp://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.htmlhttp://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.htmlhttp://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.htmlhttp://s568.photobucket.com/user/loryde_2000/media/IMG_6692_zpscxsy1azu.jpg.html

K,....Well I've had the same problem. I read somewhere on here, not really sure 'cause I'm gettin old and can't remember squat! Someone stated these trucks are sae not metric. So I went to my local parts store and he called B.S.. I bought some fine thread standard bolts, and they barely fit the threads. Now I am really confused. Did Nissan have their own thread pitch like VW's ?? I just removed my front wheel cylinders from the backing plates and lo and behold,.. a 3/4" socket fit the best! along with the bleeder stem nut,...7/16" nut. So am I nuts or the guy at the parts store???

There is a 1968 520 for sale on CL vancouver for $1500. I talked to the guy. It sounds like it's pretty complete.

That must be an early '68 with the front turn signals pointing straight forward. I also have a '68 ,but it is a late build with the turn signals more on the bottom corners.

The wheels I bought it with are already sold. The 17" silverado wheels are just on for test fitting. They are too close to the rear frame to run. Im going with 15" chev steelies with moon caps and wide white walls. Classic look but the truck is down low! It's now turn key running, but lots of little things now. Needs all new wheel cylinders and clutch slave, drive shaft welded, throttle cable, exhaust.... Everything else works, heater, lights, horn , wipers,..