captaingamez

Miatas are nasty motherf$%kers.

LMFAO I never said going to the track meant you knew a damn thing!! hahahahaha. Some of the fastest drivers I know are totally brainless when it comes to building a car!!

Its my opinion that a true enthusiast drives on the race track, at very least once in a while. You dont have to agree, but thats my very subjective and bias opinion based on my experiences. And if you havent been to the track you should go, Its an awesome experience that will teach you a ton about driving, unless you think you know it all already, then dont bother its a waste of your time as you must be perfect already. Most tracks require some instruction and possibly entry level licensing before they will allow you to actually drive on track with other cars, and the track fee. Just use a medium brake pad from someone like Hawk or EBC and summer performance tires and you will have a blast. This applies to trucks too, theres several trucks that drive at track days around here. AutoX is also pretty sweet. Not something I do because I am so busy.

Well I definitely dont think that Hondas and Nissans are the greatest cars ever made, so I dont think I fit the bill for datsun or honda elitism. Honestly I could go on for days about all the things both companies have done badly. I never said that you have to be a track slut, just that a true enthusiast goes to the track. And I am refering to the road course. Funny, I always look at the Vette owners on track as compensating for something, How does one compensate for something with a Honda? I have to wonder..... I also never even insinuated that Subarus are THE WORST to work on, there is always worse. But there is also substantially better. And my comment on drifting is fanboi to what? LOL, I dont like drifting in the US or Japan, but the Japanese definitely have more style and it seems to me that it requires more skill. But I agree this thread is completely useless.

Also for the record I am not an S2000 fan for the exact reasons stated. Always have felt that way. Not a good comparison in my eyes.

So go put a subaru engine in your 510 if their so easy to work on. I guess thats why all the service rates are higher on a Subaru than many other cars :confused: Everyone who builds cars knows their hard to work on, glad you guys are dreaming otherwise, it speaks volumes of how good you are at car. And the alternator was one of those really easy to get to things I mentioned that you rarely have to replace so who cares if its easy to get to? An EJ easier to work on than a Honda K20? Or an 4g63? LMFAO. Please go learn to work on more cars, I mean wow. ROFL LLOLOOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLLOLOOLOLLOOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLLOLOLLO

I have worked on Subarus, I didnt do that particular service but looking at the location, its definitely a little more than $70. And thats a good excuse for putting it there int he first place? Definitely not. Did you go change those spark plugs yet? Not a simplistic car at all, dumbest comment ever made on Ratsun. Hey but at least look at the bright side, most of the components that dont wear out very frequently are easy to get to :thumbup:

SAY THAT AFTER YOU CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS ON ONE!!! Please, if you think their easy then go change your friends STI spark plugs for free. I would do that on any of my friends normal engines (15 minutes or less)

Wow, thats the most delusional thing I have ever read. Have you ever work,ed on a Subaru? I cant imagine after that statement. I am not talking about Forresters and non turbo models, I am talking about the WRX which for example has a fuel hose that costs $19 and costs $900 in labor to replace. Everything about the way that car is designed is absurd and needless. Nobody I have ever met that builds subarus or has worked on the engine bay of one would EVER say they are the most simplistic. Period.

There is nothing wrong with true Honda people, or 240 people, or even Subaru people, its just the way certain massive groups of people are and its stereotype and the stereotypes are mostly accurate. I actually road race Hondas, I have road raced Nissan as well. People that are true enthusiasts, actually race their cars or at very least go to track days regularly. If you don't go to the track, you shouldn't be criticizing anyone about anything under any circumstance, until you do/have gone to the track and actually pushed cars to their limit, or yours, whichever comes first. And no, I do not mean drifting, Drifting in the USA is the opposite of driving skill. If you go to the track for drifting purposes you likely cant drive competitively or well on a road course, or your being well paid by sponsors. There are of course those stereotype people that think that the car brand that they drive is the best and none is or ever will or could be better, those are fanbois, and every brand has them. A true car enthusiast, in addition to going to the track should be able to easily recognize that every manufacturer has been able to engineer at least a few vehicles very well. And then there is the opposite of the spectrum that think all cars have their pluses and minuses and we should think all cars that someone put work in are cool even if we dont like them for very obviously good and unbiased reasons. Those people are usually the ones driving the worst cars.

Dont get me wrong though, Evo people can be douchebags as well.

I have driven multiple Subarus, WRX, STI, Legacy, Forrester. My aunt only buys subarus, I drive her Forrester alot, and dont get me wrong the Forrester and Legacy are kind of cool. I had a WRX wagon for an entire year while my friend had a DUI and couldnt drive it for that time. But the WRX/STI are shitty cars. I am not being bias here, they actually are not very well engineered cars, maybe fun to drive sometimes but working on one will make you want to commit sepuku simply because of bad engineering. The tune on them stock is so bad because of having to pass emissions restrictions that it goes in and out of boost. And on top of all that you have to buy wheels that become substantially less valuable the moment you buy them simply because they are 5x100. And they need so much service that it truly isnt funny. Why pay to work on those things if your not actually racing them? Not to even mention the owners are ALMOST all massive toolbags that dont know anything about cars and think that the Subaru company is the greatest thing to ever exist in the car world and everything that they have ever done is great. If you EVER compare a WRX/STI to an EVO, then you have never driven an EVO, They are not comparable cars. Everyone ( and the two companies marketing teams) thinks that they are competitors. The two cars are not competitors, never have been and even when racing in the same rally classes, they were not competitors in the real world. Subaru people compare their Subarus to Evos all the time. Many less Evo people will compare their car to a Subaru, ever. Because to be frank, an Evo is alot closer to a GTR than it is to an STI.

Seriously how has nobody said Subaru? Most specifically the WRX/STI

It looks like some part of some sort of sensor array.

What is that?

I think you got a great deal on them man, I paid a bit more and mine had no center caps. SCORE!

That pic mislead me, I thought you had the simple center caps, you have the special shaped ones, those may be the same model as mine actually. But mine dont have the holes for the center cap mounting parts. Craigslist? damn, thats awesome. Good price?

NICE WHEELS! Congrats on finding those, Where did you find them? do you have all the center caps? What size/width/offset are they? I believe yours are actually even slightly rarer than mine are, yours are a few years older, I can tell because the "Rays eng." and "Volk Racing" logos are 180 degrees from eachother, mine are 90 degrees apart. And I forgot to mention,. the bolt seat or head diameter of the bolts you get needs to be 12.9 mm to fit inside the countersink hole, unless yours are different, not %100 sure.

Holy crap no update for nearly two months!!!! we must fix this. I have be mega busy and caught off guard from the whole wheel debacle, still never got money back for the bolts. But I have slowly been working on the car, just not things that are on the car currently so much. I fixed the AC, ended up being a seized idler bearing not the clutch, it was just acting so odd there for a while, but no hiccups for the last month what so ever. My starter died, about 3 weeks ago, I replaced it and the new one is ALREADY giving me the same exact problem as the last one, and yes I am sure it is the starter, not the ignition switch. My transmission actually sounds exactly like a box of marbles. So I started tearing down the Borg Warner T5 for rebuilding I was told its colse to 300,000 miles, but you couldnt tell from looking inside the thing. Everything is in great condition, even the blocker rings (synchros), you could have told me it only has 100000 miles on it and I would believe you. Bearings are even nice. All the pads are intact on the forks. Bell and tail housing ready for the hot tank, I am sending the center housing in too, but I am debating on whether or not to disassemble the lower gearset or leave it in and wash it all together and then disassemble and clean after washing. Any suggestions on transmission work always appreciated. New shift knob!!, courtesy of the Horizontal machining center and the recycling bin at work!

Yeah while I was typing that I was thinking "I know its gonna be a damn wheel!" lmao. But which wheel?

These wheels are exactly what the title says. Ray's Engineering, Volk Racing Mesh. At least thats the only name I know them by, I was also thinking "there has to be an actual model name/number??", but thus far I havent discovered anything else on them. If you look up "volk racing mesh" you pretty much find a ton of these wheels, they are however, very hard to come by in the USA. But all Ray's wheels ever made are marked "Ray's" or "Volk Racing" and always say "Made in Japan" on them somewhere. My original bolts are actually very high quality, out of 80 bolts, only one bolt stripped, because it was totally siezed on. Getting my one siezed one off, I actually cut the nut in half from the back, VERY VERY CAREFULLY. That solved my problem, but I would try everything you can no to go that route. For new bolts you are going to have to measure your original bolt, most likely they are M6x32, M7x32 or M8x32. Problem is, you cant really get much for M8 in wheel specific hardware like www.tunershop.com carries. And if you use regular old black oxide hardware from Ace or something, it will rust very quickly. (its called oxide because that black color is actually a form of rust). Moreover, you have to measure the bolt head, seat diameter to get the right hardware. I assume your bolts are like mine, tapered down from the seat to where the internal hex is. You will not find those, and if you do, please direct me to them, because I looked for weeks.

STEVE!! Would you make a damn profile pic already!!!! Jeez! Lol.

And nobody thinks about that when doing "RHD conversions", Which are completely stupid.

Lmfao, I face this very issue on my other vehicle. Headlights have to come from a European country that drives on the correct side of the road if you want the nice headlights, and they are $$$$.

K24A2.