Kirden

Aw, it's giving itself a hug.

Everyone be warned, Busta Nut just challenged MrBig to post a pic of himself in a thong...

That is actually pretty amazing. I meant it more as a joke but it looks like you could actually repair that pretty easily with a donor clip. Now if that was a 5mph hit then it might be a different story :P Datsunfreak, you need to find a track like this to let loose with the 1200. It looks like it would be a blast

Those 40/50 year old crumple zones... I hear rust makes it much better.

Ricer... :fu: I'm just kidding. I'd probably baby it as well with all the work you have put into it. I think the reason reclinable/stock seats are allowed is they are usually steel framed, not aluminum. Not sure but that seems to make sense in my shot out brain...

It's fine. That's just how Datsuns do the gangsta lean. My 620 bumper was skewed on the driver side as well. The B210 isn't, but then again I have no idea how long it has been since it actyually was on the road.

From what I've heard the S15 6-speed is only garbage if you increase the HP on the SR. With MrBig's current power he shouldn't have any problem out of the 6speed, and that would be a really nice setup. MrBig, I know you hate me and all, but if you get an SR 6-speed can you take pictures of the bell housing and measure the distance across the bell from side to side?

I would shorten the runners as Dadzsun mentioned. According to Bogg Brother's you want to avoid any chance of pooling. This is what killed the idea of a draw-thru turbo for me. Especially for a daily driver, pooling can cause some real issues. Racing gives the fuel that pools time to evaporate, but running errands means more fuel pools and doesn't evaporate. One misfire and you end up blowing your manifold/carbs to shit. Ok, so that's worst case scenario, but that's what scared me away from it. I understand using the cut stock manifold to save on a flange, but the angle is pretty horrible for placing runners on. If possible, I would find a new flange and shorten the runners moving the carbs in and giving more room for angle adjustment.

LOL, tis true. I sold the 620 cause I was tired of fighting to have a daily. So, you really had an issue with the clutch/trans? Hopefully it's the clutch cause that's probably easier to find than a new box.

Aw, that hurts my feelings MrB... I thought we were friends :( Whatever, I'll love your wagon from a distance then

Should've went KA...

Mr Big doing "body work"

I'm way too drunk to argue with that logic.

Aim the mufflers out of the headlight housing like a bawse! I love this build. You guys do some amazing work out there. I thought it would be awesome to schedule a visit when my company sends me to the corporate office, but you guys are so far from Katy... Why is Texas so big!

I just got rid of the 620, need a new truck. Just ship it to GA, I'm good for it. Might need more HP though...

Waiting to see elephant on piss-ant action...

Well, this truck has moved on to a new owner. It will be missed but I just couldn't justify putting more money into it with all the parts I have for the B210.

Ok, well that's a relief. I checked out the plastic housing and the screws were all way too loose. I guess my uncle unscrewed them to open the choke when we were tuning it cause I remember he kept putting a screw driver in the port to hold the choke open the first time around, but not the second while he was tuning it. I wired it back to the wire he was using, it tests hot only when the ignition is switched on. Then I put some slight tension by turning the spring housing so that it would return to a mostly shut position on its own, but not tight enough to completely shut it. I started it and let it run for about five minutes and the choke was opening up on it's own. SUCCESS!! :thumbup: Thank you all for your help, I still need to figure out the weak spark from the cap for those two wires, but at least it will start and run now without burning out my starter or killing my battery.

Thanks Len, I'll take a look and see what I can do. Wayno, I'm not sure I can rig up a manual pull for the choke, but my truck does have a manual cable installed from the old GM card. I'll see if there is a way to hook it up if I can't get the spring to work correctly. I know that I need to adjust the valves badly, just waiting for a valve cover gasket to come in. Should be able to take care of that tomorrow. On a good note, the truck has fired right up every single time today. It turns over maybe one time then fires up, with no sputtering or bogging. I did find something interesting from checking the distributor. two of the wires seem to have week spark. I'm going to clean the cap and make sure the contacts are in good condition, but I may need a new cap. I checked the spark at the plugs and it was a bit weak, then checked at the distributor and it barely jumps a short gap. If you pull the wire and hold it close, it will only jump about 1mm. The others will jump 3mm and have a much stronger spark. I'm going to splice over the ignition and alt wires to the distributor if cleaning doesn't do any good. Just a question, this is a matchbox module. Would I have any issues if the matchbox wires were connected to the wrong terminal or would it not start at all? Just testing the options.

My choke has no tension at all. It just flops around. Once I pushed it totally closed the engine started with no problem even with the morning chill. I really would like to get that fixed but I can't figure out why it has no tension. I could have sworn that the choke worked just fine previously, but that was months ago. It was bought brand new from weber carbs direct, but the more I look at my other weber and the one on my 620, the more differences I see. I'm starting to think the one on my truck is a cheap reproduction.

Just an update, I took off the carb hat and filter to check the choke since that seemed easiest. My choke is completely unresponsive. I checked my other weber that needs a rebuild and that choke seems to be sprung, it always returns to a certain point, but on my 620 there is no resistance on the choke. Even moving the throttle does not close the choke, but it does slightly open it. So I closed the choke, tried to start it at 7AM... and forgot to take it out of gear. Had a nice little run to pull the key (I was standing outside of the truck starting it...) I did go ahead and check the plugs again, all have spark. Also, compression is low, but all cylinders are very close. Highest just under 145, lowest was just over 135. I'm just glad it started first try, didn't even stumble. I do need to adjust my valves badly, haven't done it since I bought the truck in Feb of last year. Any tips on fixing the choke? It seems like the linkage is all hooked up correctly. I'm still new to carbs so if anyone has had this issue or has any advice please let me know .

Hey, I like that last one. My fat looks like it might actually fit in it...

And done